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Old 12th November 2017, 01:01 PM   #11
jeronimo83 is offline jeronimo83  Netherlands
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I have made a open baffle with 2 woofers in a v shape. Is this an option for you ?
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Old 12th November 2017, 04:48 PM   #12
CharlieM is offline CharlieM  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeronimo83 View Post
I have made a open baffle with 2 woofers in a v shape. Is this an option for you ?
Nice work Jeronimo. I see a pair of transformers stuffed in there so there must be an ESL panel somewhere-- would love to see it.

I had hoped to simply create a design and drawing using my existing wire panel and jigs, which my friend would have built, without me having to build and test prototypes. That is; my friend would have his dream speakers and I would have an easier-build design to post on my website and an option to build and sell a few on Etsy after I retire (I’m already 64).

This is looking increasingly unlikely without a lot more work on my part. Not to mention; my friend is covering the costs and has his own preferences so I don’t have the total vote on a design.

I’m coming to appreciate how problems start snowballing when so constrained, rather than starting off with a clean sheet. For example; a two woofer W-baffle may crank enough low bass to play loud without added subs. Whereas, a single woofer in a U or H baffle would be significantly more limited. Yet; implementing a W-baffle in a reasonably sized package would require aligning it vertically and reducing the panel height (would have to build another wire jig too).

The only sufficiency compact two-woofer dipole I know of is a Ripol, which would fit nicely under the existing 12 x 48 panel. The concern with playing a Ripole that high is its nasty-loud chamber resonance, which would fall right about where crossover needs to be. There may also be phasing issues affecting its blending with the panel. I think Calvin built something like that once-- too bad I don't have his smarts to know how to make it work. But at least I already have a pair of SLS 12 Ripol subs, so I could do some testing if my friend is open to that option.

Below is another single woofer arrangement, which I drew up a few minutes ago to provide a more stable base, not as prone to tipping over. The upper configuration uses a triangular base made from a single ply of A-A oak plywood with no feet. The two lower configurations form the triangular base with a double thickness of plywood in order to support adding spike feet.

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Last edited by CharlieM; 12th November 2017 at 04:58 PM.
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Old 12th November 2017, 05:09 PM   #13
CharlieM is offline CharlieM  United States
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The question I should have asked right off the bat is: Has anyone here built a dipole ESL using a single Peerless SLS woofer?

I did a search just now and didn't find any threads.

Last edited by CharlieM; 12th November 2017 at 05:21 PM.
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Old 12th November 2017, 05:12 PM   #14
CharlieM is offline CharlieM  United States
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Originally Posted by jeronimo83 View Post
I have made a open baffle with 2 woofers in a v shape. Is this an option for you ?
BTW, what woofers are you using there and how tall is the cabinet?
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Old 13th November 2017, 06:06 PM   #15
HankF is offline HankF  United States
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I'm going to build a couple of W-frame OB subs, 2 drivers per. Here is the driver and there are links to the servo amp plans for W-frame and H-frame:
SW-12-16FR
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Old 13th November 2017, 06:35 PM   #16
scottjoplin is offline scottjoplin  Wales
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I've always liked the look of a W frame, don't know why......how does it compare to an H frame? I have U frames which I think are the best use of space?
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Old 14th November 2017, 12:28 AM   #17
CharlieM is offline CharlieM  United States
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My gut instinct remains that a single 12 in a dipole wouldn't crank enough low bass for a stand alone speaker but should do fine when unloaded to a pair of subs below 60Hz. Below is my latest thought:

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Old 14th November 2017, 06:15 PM   #18
HankF is offline HankF  United States
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scottjoplin, Danny says the H-frame is stronger than the W-frame due to pressure on the unbraced sides. I'm going to build 3/4" MDF W-frames and laminate either 1/2" MDF or 1/2" Baltic birch on the side pieces - should be strong enough.
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Old 14th November 2017, 06:27 PM   #19
scottjoplin is offline scottjoplin  Wales
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With the W frame you get a degree of force cancellation which you don't have with the H frame so perhaps it doesn't matter that it isn't as strong
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Old 18th November 2017, 02:18 AM   #20
Few is offline Few  United States
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Quick thought: most of the woofer mass is in the magnet so you may be overcompensating with your front-projecting feet. Also, if you rear-mount the woofers (mount their faces to the back of the baffles) you'll move the woofers back by a distance equal to the baffle thickness so that'll help a tiny bit as well---plus it can look nice! In any case, as you visualize the distance the front feet must project forward, bear in mind where the center of mass of the woofers will be. A simple drawing may make things look worse than they are.

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