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Parts list for Quad ESL 63 EHT board
Parts list for Quad ESL 63 EHT board
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Old 29th December 2018, 01:51 PM   #11
stokessd is offline stokessd  United States
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The fact that the caps are physically disconnected from the panels when the neon isn't lit is a pretty compelling argument for not being too concerned about the HV caps. Films won't hurt anything, but don't expect any sonic improvements. The trick is to find films that would fit on the board. You can lay out a new board with films and then everything is good.

Here's a new layout or the HV boards:

OSH Park ~



Sheldon
quadesl.com
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Old 3rd October 2019, 09:43 AM   #12
cdm is offline cdm
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Originally Posted by stokessd View Post
Based on your last post, I'm assuming that the the bad speaker is WAY quieter, like 20dB down. Chances are that your clamp TRIAC is bad. The spark clamp circuit turns on an TRIAC that shorts the speaker input (because screw your amp). IF that TRIAC has to sink too much current, it can fail. This leads to it always being "on" and your speaker always being shorted and thus very quiet.

Pull the TO-220 device on the heat sink off the clamp board and try your speaker. I bet it will play like before. I've seen this several times on over-driven speakers.

There were several clamp-board variations, some had a couple of heat sinked to-220 devices. if you are confused drop me an email with a picture of your board and I'll be glad to help you out.

Sheldon
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Hi Sheldon,
I hope you are still around and I hope its ok for Thinker1920 that I ask this, but my problem is exactly the same.
When you mean "pull the TO-220 device", you mean to unsolder or really to pull? (I am by no means a pro, so I have to start from the beginning, even if this sound funny to some.)
Anyway, if the clamp-board is not the problem, than this means that I have to repair the eht-board, or it could be something else?
I hope you can help me


P.S. I can take better Pictures, if needed.
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File Type: jpg DSCN3943.JPG (139.7 KB, 111 views)
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Old 4th October 2019, 01:21 AM   #13
stokessd is offline stokessd  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdm View Post
Hi Sheldon,
I hope you are still around and I hope its ok for Thinker1920 that I ask this, but my problem is exactly the same.
When you mean "pull the TO-220 device", you mean to unsolder or really to pull? (I am by no means a pro, so I have to start from the beginning, even if this sound funny to some.)
Anyway, if the clamp-board is not the problem, than this means that I have to repair the eht-board, or it could be something else?
I hope you can help me


P.S. I can take better Pictures, if needed.

First of all make sure your EHT board isn't the issue. Take a look at the good speaker and note how fast the neon bulb is blinking. Now look at the bad speaker and see if the bulb is blinking at roughly the same rate. If the bad speaker isn't blinking at a much lower rate or not at all, you probably have an EHT problem. The real way to be sure it's not an eht problem is to swap them from speaker to speaker.

Yes, if the triac is bad, you can unsolder it from the board and try the speaker and it should be back to normal level.

Sheldon
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Old 4th October 2019, 08:46 AM   #14
cdm is offline cdm
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Originally Posted by stokessd View Post
First of all make sure your EHT board isn't the issue. Take a look at the good speaker and note how fast the neon bulb is blinking. Now look at the bad speaker and see if the bulb is blinking at roughly the same rate. If the bad speaker isn't blinking at a much lower rate or not at all, you probably have an EHT problem. The real way to be sure it's not an eht problem is to swap them from speaker to speaker.

Yes, if the triac is bad, you can unsolder it from the board and try the speaker and it should be back to normal level.

Sheldon
quadesl.com
Hi Sheldon,


thank you for the quick answer. The neon bulb at the bad speaker is not blinking at all, only once, when I turned it on. At the good speaker is blinking pretty fast at the beginning, and after a while every 15-20 sec (I didnt count it), so here seems to be ok.
When you say "swap", I presume you mean only the eht-board, not the whole base, otherwise I would swap the problems with it.

Chris
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Old 4th October 2019, 10:25 PM   #15
stokessd is offline stokessd  United States
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My guess is that you have a bad diode on your EHT board. I'd swap all 8 of them.

Sheldon
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Old 6th October 2019, 11:59 AM   #16
cdm is offline cdm
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My guess is that you have a bad diode on your EHT board. I'd swap all 8 of them.

Sheldon

Hi Sheldon,


I was afraid youd say that. Im not that good at soldering, but I can try. All Ive got is this schematic, I presume that means that D3-D10 had to be changed (what is 1AV30?).

Funny thing, on my eht-board I have 8+5 diodes, and I dont see this in the schematic, but Im not good at reading this either.
Again, thank you for your time!


Chris
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Old 6th October 2019, 02:55 PM   #17
stokessd is offline stokessd  United States
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Originally Posted by cdm View Post
Hi Sheldon,


I was afraid youd say that. Im not that good at soldering, but I can try. All Ive got is this schematic, I presume that means that D3-D10 had to be changed (what is 1AV30?).

Funny thing, on my eht-board I have 8+5 diodes, and I dont see this in the schematic, but Im not good at reading this either.
Again, thank you for your time!

Here's two different versions of the EHT board, note the black devices with a silver band. Those are the diodes in question. There are eight of them on each board.

Click the image to open in full size.


Here's the diode that are used in the later model quad power supplies. I use these:

https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...ICT-ND/3025889

The diodes are directional, make sure you put them in the right way.

hope that helps,
Sheldon
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Old 6th October 2019, 04:44 PM   #18
cdm is offline cdm
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So much important and useful information for me in your post!



[QUOTE=stokessd;5935935]Here's two different versions of the EHT board, note the black devices with a silver band. Those are the diodes in question. There are eight of them on each board.

This is really embarrassing, because I thought that the diodes are round thingsThats how skiled I am (my eht-board, by the way, is the left one).


"The diodes are directional, make sure you put them in the right way."


That is new to me, I dont remember to have read this before. Again, thank you.
And Ill search for the Vishay diodes, Im in Germany, so Ill have to look somwhere else, but Im sure I can find them.
So, your post reallly helped!



Chris
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Old 6th October 2019, 05:05 PM   #19
misterdog is offline misterdog  United Kingdom
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Here is the German page priced in Euros.

GP02-30-E3/73 Vishay Semiconductor Diodes Division | Discrete Semiconductor Products | DigiKey
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Old 8th October 2019, 07:10 AM   #20
cdm is offline cdm
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Originally Posted by misterdog View Post

Hi Misterdog!
Yeah, I saw that too, thanks. Now I just have to find out how to put the diodes in the right direction and how to solder them (theyre so tiny!). The speaker-crossover I did were a little bit larger
Chris
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