It normally takes a quarter of an hour or more when you switch on the power to the bias for the charge on the film to settle; it is normally that they sound weak, muddled or both that first 15 or more minutes.
It's how the speaker works.
Jan
I will get back to you on the switch position when I next work on the x-over. Hopefully 'ticknpop' brings the parts to TAVES this weekend.
Jan is most likely correct on the bias build up time, I can't confirm as I always wait at least an hour before doing any serious listening, my components need at least that amount of time to warm up.
Jan is most likely correct on the bias build up time, I can't confirm as I always wait at least an hour before doing any serious listening, my components need at least that amount of time to warm up.
You could contact Support at MartinLogan | Premium HiFi Speakers for Home Theater & Stereo on the switch position
Thank you DDz, I did send an inquiry to ML Tech Support via the ML website a few days ago however I still await a response !
It all looks pretty straightforward, both switches to left factory flat setting, both switches to the right position for Level2 with one of the switches set to left one set to the right for level1 , unclear however which switch one should alter accordingly for Level 1 out of the two ? Or whether it doesn't matter which.
The bass crossover is 6 db/octave with switch selectable resistors to cut the bass panel level by 1 , 2, or 3 db to suit particular rooms and tastes.
The Hi pass section section is primarily a 6 db/ oct high pass filter, with a notch filter, and a secondary series RC network for HF level tailoring.
You could feed the bass transformer section directly bypassing the CLX’s bass crossover section and then use a second power amp to power the HF section through the CLX passive crossover. (unless you can dsp duplicate the notch filter and hf level tailoring you’ll have to use the CLX’s passive crossover for the HF section). At a minimum you should upgrade the main 22uf HF capacitor.
The crossover frequency is 360 hz .
The Hi pass section section is primarily a 6 db/ oct high pass filter, with a notch filter, and a secondary series RC network for HF level tailoring.
You could feed the bass transformer section directly bypassing the CLX’s bass crossover section and then use a second power amp to power the HF section through the CLX passive crossover. (unless you can dsp duplicate the notch filter and hf level tailoring you’ll have to use the CLX’s passive crossover for the HF section). At a minimum you should upgrade the main 22uf HF capacitor.
The crossover frequency is 360 hz .
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C1 is the most important , C2 next - you get the biggest change with those 2 .
C3 is the notch filter - most expensive, not sure its worth the money to use Vcap there, but some thing better yes. I continue to improve my electronics and each step has been obvious and enjoyable through the CLXs ... have some JL audio f212 v2 subs sitting the garage waiting for me to sell the v1s.
C3 is the notch filter - most expensive, not sure its worth the money to use Vcap there, but some thing better yes. I continue to improve my electronics and each step has been obvious and enjoyable through the CLXs ... have some JL audio f212 v2 subs sitting the garage waiting for me to sell the v1s.
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Nice to hear from you TnP 
thanks for the advice, I shall go with C1and C2 initially and see where that takes me.
I am awaiting delivery a set of IsoAcoustic GAIA I feet in place of the incombent Stillpoints.
BTW... I have just been quoted for a full set of replacment panels for my CLX's
£5000
thanks for the advice, I shall go with C1and C2 initially and see where that takes me.I am awaiting delivery a set of IsoAcoustic GAIA I feet in place of the incombent Stillpoints.
BTW... I have just been quoted for a full set of replacment panels for my CLX's
£5000
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