Hello,
I have been reconstructing the ESL 63 for some time now but I'm in a dead end. I could get one speaker to work properly (victory!) but not the other one (misery!). I have already tried a few things but with no result.
Let me try to describe the situation, to see if you can suggest any good idea:
- The speaker plays music but with lower level when compared with the other one
- the charge indicator looks good, with a blink every 2 seconds or so
- I cannot detect any distortion, or clicks and pops, the treble seems a bit recessed though
- I tested all 4 panels and they are all working
- I tried disconnecting each one individually, but with no result
- The electronics was working ok before, and I have changed panels from one speaker to the other with no obvious indication that one was faulting
- My last attempt was using tape around the sides of the panels to avoid leaks, this seems to have improved the situation, but not solving it
Any thing that I may be missing?
Many thanks for your help.
I have been reconstructing the ESL 63 for some time now but I'm in a dead end. I could get one speaker to work properly (victory!) but not the other one (misery!). I have already tried a few things but with no result.
Let me try to describe the situation, to see if you can suggest any good idea:
- The speaker plays music but with lower level when compared with the other one
- the charge indicator looks good, with a blink every 2 seconds or so
- I cannot detect any distortion, or clicks and pops, the treble seems a bit recessed though
- I tested all 4 panels and they are all working
- I tried disconnecting each one individually, but with no result
- The electronics was working ok before, and I have changed panels from one speaker to the other with no obvious indication that one was faulting
- My last attempt was using tape around the sides of the panels to avoid leaks, this seems to have improved the situation, but not solving it
Any thing that I may be missing?
Many thanks for your help.
Can you just clarify that all the panels work OK, but one side of the electronics is faulty?
Have you measured the output of the HV-supply?
This would be my first point with low volume and treble.
Harry
Measure the voltage over each rectifier diode, the voltage here is about 5250 divided by number of diodes. Use caution, HIGH VOLTAGE!!
It's a fairly common fault that one of the capacitors on the HV bias board
is "open". I always change all the caps and rectifiers on these boards when I refurbish Esl 63 speakers.
I have redone everything, from re-glueing the stators to changing the diaphragms, etc. I have followed instructions from ER Audio.
You may have a good point though. The instructions on how to spread the coating are quite straightforward, but the results seem a bit too thin when compared with a panel redone by One Thing Audio that I have for benchmarking.
Can I spread the coating again, after cleaning with alcohol, or am I condemned to change the diaphragms? (the worst part is cleaning the glue, to say the truth). I would have to do it on the 4 panel.
On your opinion, what would be less expensive, buying a 5000V voltmeter or simply changing the diodes and caps?
I confess that I'm on the verge to simply give up. I had to go back to my previous speakers and they sometimes seem an upgrade compared with the 63. I know it sounds apocrypha, but I'm enjoying again high treble and some sound pressure...
It would be a "High Voltage Test Probe" connected to your meter. See below:
LUTRON HV-40: VARIOUS: Test, Tools & Supplies
LUTRON HV-40: VARIOUS: Test, Tools & Supplies
Hi Paapt,
Please do not give up so easily. Are you using the coating material from ER Audio? You can clean up the coating using Acetone and redo the coating. Please read the link: Jason's DIY Audio: DIY Electrostatic Loudspeakers / ESLs - The Diaphragm Conductive Coating
The link shows a mistake of rubbing too thick coating which might be the opposite of what you have done.
Rob at ER Audio is a very nice person. I'm sure that if you ask him, he will be glad to help you.
Wachara C.
Please do not give up so easily. Are you using the coating material from ER Audio? You can clean up the coating using Acetone and redo the coating. Please read the link: Jason's DIY Audio: DIY Electrostatic Loudspeakers / ESLs - The Diaphragm Conductive Coating
The link shows a mistake of rubbing too thick coating which might be the opposite of what you have done.
Rob at ER Audio is a very nice person. I'm sure that if you ask him, he will be glad to help you.
Wachara C.
The way I read this is to only measure across one diode at a time, so the full ~5kV is not actually measured directly?
Do not do this. Diodes shall be checked on unpowerd unit only. Give it enough time to discharge.
HV diodes may have high forward voltage drop and sometimes can't be checked with simple multimeter.
You may check the voltage across HV supply though.
Make 1GOhm resistor out of 20 5Mohm resistors, minimum 2W rated. Connnect them in series.
Make a shunt out of two small signal diodes like 1N4148. Connect them in anti-parallel.
Put one end of 1G resistor to the hot end of multiplier, tie another end to first terminal of your shunt.
The remaining end of the shunt goes to the cold end of multiplier.
Now connect microampmeter to the shunt terminals.
You are ready to go. Power the unit.
Current through the resistor you've made is proportional to the voltage.
So @ 5kV and 1G you will read 5 microamps and so on.
Alex
You can buy a second-hand high voltage probe like this one: 80K-40 High Voltage Probe
They were very common at a time when some people repaired TV.
Now that CRT are gone, you can find some for not much money.
Can you please give a reason why not to measure each diode separately, I've done so as long as I can remember. If you find a faulty voltage over a diode, its either this diode or one of the capacitors connected to this diode, or both, that's faulty and needs to be replaced.
Sure you can do this.
Usually isolation on mutimeter is good enough no to get shocked (I do not imply electrocuted).
I would not recommend to do so not knowing how cautious that person will be.
Even small shock can force you to do really fast unpredictable movements - which is rather unsafe.
Alex
Sorry my background is power electronics...
Hi again,
I apologize for not understanding you in a completely clear way.
Shall I understand from your words that I may check the voltage between the legs of one diode using a common 1000V probe IF AND ONLY IF I am careful?
(I have a degree in Electrical Engineering but have to say that my specialty is computing, not electronics and especially not high power electronics. Thus I must be extra careful about this.)
Yes, thats right, measure each diode separatly with an ordinary digital voltmeter, it shall be around 600 volt DC, slightly lower at the end of the ladder, sligtly higher at the beginning of the ladder.
To play it safe, try to use only one hand when you measure, put one hand in your pocket!
More info:
Quad ESL63 electrostatic speaker service diagnose repair schematic manual
To play it safe, try to use only one hand when you measure, put one hand in your pocket!
More info:
Quad ESL63 electrostatic speaker service diagnose repair schematic manual
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