Anyone making Apogee bass panels?

@Carlton8000 - I remember you! We had a few e-mail discussions going. You were the brave soul that decoupled the TW from the MR on the Scintilla (they are electrically connected due to the fact they could touch each other) using Digmoda plate amps all active. I, too suffered the same fate of a house move ruining the Scintillas. The design was old and the wood was from the 80's so eventually the warping ruined the panels. Lots of years of enjoyment but too much pain to repeat that mess lol.
 
I remember your name and some of the conversations as well also. The one thing that are learned during the tri-amp episode that if one does have the complete understanding of the audible effects of crossover is that I was given the initial illusion of betterment due to increased power available to speaker and perceived detail retrieval. This eventually made me long for the passively powered sound that initially captivated me. My current Scintilla is very simple. An Arcam ST60 streaming ROON to a pair of Purifi high power monoblocks. And although the seller that I picked these up from last year included the original Apogee active cross over for the Scintilla. I have no intentions to use it or any other active do unit.
 

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I remember your name and some of the conversations as well also. The one thing that are learned during the tri-amp episode that if one does have the complete understanding of the audible effects of crossover is that I was given the initial illusion of betterment due to increased power available to speaker and perceived detail retrieval. This eventually made me long for the passively powered sound that initially captivated me. My current Scintilla is very simple. An Arcam ST60 streaming ROON to a pair of Purifi high power monoblocks. And although the seller that I picked these up from last year included the original Apogee active cross over for the Scintilla. I have no intentions to use it or any other active do unit.
I’m astonished that you can drive Scinnies with the Purifi amps - do they have the “new” higher power modules?

I don’t think there can be any argument that an active crossover is not better in principle than a passive crossover, but like anything else it then comes down to the implementation. Everything I’ve gleaned about the original Apogee active crossover indicates that it was not as good as one might hope for. (You know that we Brits are partial to understatement 🤣). I’d expect some nice Pass designed active crossovers (that don’t utilise lots of cheap and nasty op amps) to be a completely different proposition.
 
I’m astonished that you can drive Scinnies with the Purifi amps - do they have the “new” higher power modules?

I don’t think there can be any argument that an active crossover is not better in principle than a passive crossover, but like anything else it then comes down to the implementation. Everything I’ve gleaned about the original Apogee active crossover indicates that it was not as good as one might hope for. (You know that we Brits are partial to understatement 🤣). I’d expect some nice Pass designed active crossovers (that don’t utilise lots of cheap and nasty op amps) to be a completely different proposition.
 
I am using the high power variant of the Purifi and it drives the Scinnies effortlessly. As I have been away from class D for quite awhile I extremely pleased what the P amps bring to the table. Especially for the Scintilla. No more shutting down due to current limitations of the units I tried during my initial foray. Also these newer design are truly load invariant compared to earlier designs. For these reasons a I know longer feel the need to divide the chores amongst more electronics and cables in the chain to try and overcome the previous limitations tat I was faced with many years ago.
 
So you've bypassed the original crossover / foil resistor and run them direct but instead of tri you bi-amp? How do you control the frequencies so they don't overlap on the MRTW array?
The pair that I tri-amped are long gone. Thought that I would never find another pair. Tried my best to get the Carver Amazings to sound similar to no avail. My past ten years of so I have used Meridian DSP6000 for listening to music. Then by rare chance I found a pair of Apogees within driving distance. I have only had these since November and they are being driven with all passive components.

On the tri-amped Scintilla the simple solution was to place spaced neo cylinders between the midrange and tweeter elements. Being magnetic the held nicely in place.
 
I am using the high power variant of the Purifi and it drives the Scinnies effortlessly. As I have been away from class D for quite awhile I extremely pleased what the P amps bring to the table. Especially for the Scintilla. No more shutting down due to current limitations of the units I tried during my initial foray. Also these newer design are truly load invariant compared to earlier designs. For these reasons a I know longer feel the need to divide the chores amongst more electronics and cables in the chain to try and overcome the previous limitations tat I was faced with many years ago.
Are they DIY amps or commercially produced ones?
 
From the picture Carlton these look like the 4 ohm version bass panels.
are you using the purifi amps to drive these at the 1 ohm strapping or the 4 ohm ?

Most of the class D amps spec 2 ohm ps limit so want to know any issues if you are driving them at
the 1 ohm setting
 
Carlton, Have you ever used the H20's on your scinnies? What were your thoughts?
I have used Henry Ho H20 on my 1st pair of Sins that I owned. After the H20 I went fully active with 6 channels of IcePower with no passive components in the path by implementing a novel solution the keep the mids and tweeter form touching each other. The speakers met an unfortunate fate many years ago.
Carlton, Have you ever used the H20's on your scinnies? What were your thoughts?
 
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