Raspberry Streamer Hifi

[bassigia]

Hi everyone, I'm new to the forum and this is my first post ever.
I apologize in advance for the long post.
As a budget-conscious audiophile, I decided last year to assemble a budget-wise streamer
but of quality, based on Raspberry.

I already had a stereo hifi system composed of:
- Advance Acoustic X-i60 amplifier
- Totem Acoustic Mite speakers
The whole system is inserted in IKEA cubes hanging on the wall and suspended 1.5 meters above the ground.

So I assembled the streamer with Raspberry like this:
- Raspberry PI 3 B +
- Official Display Touchscreen 7 ’’
- SmartPi Touch 2 Case
- AUDIOPHONICS Digipi + PRO Digital interface WM8804
- QED Performance Digital Coaxial Audio Cable
- LEICKE power supply 20W 5V 4A
- SanDisk microsd 16 GB
- USB LED to control the shutdown
- Volume as software (2.779 so far)

[240 euros in total]

The streamer connects to my amplifier's DAC [the Cirrus Logic CS8416 chip (24 bit 192 kHz) is associated with a CS4344 DAC (24 bit 192 kHz), signal filtering is guaranteed, for the CS4344, by a filter organized around to the operational amplifiers NJM4558 of the manufacturer New Japan Radio Company] via the aforementioned coaxial cable.

After a few months of listening to webradio and Spotify, I am very happy with the purchase.
Some things have happened, however, that push me to an upgrade.
While using the touch display and starting the system, Volumio signaled me an error of "Under-voltage detected!" and a lightning bolt image appeared in the top-right corner of the screen.

I search on the web and I have identified a temporary solution by adopting the CRAAP settings mentioned here:
Archimago's Musings: MUSINGS: Raspberry Pi 3 B+ "Touch" Optimizations; CRAAP Settings, and the "Extremus" Filter Setting.

# Archimago's CRAAP Pi 3 B + Settings ...
arm_freq = 1000
sdram_freq = 500
core_freq = 400
gpu_freq = 300
over_voltage = -3
over_voltage_sdram = -3

# Force max current to USB 0 = OFF (600mA) 1 = ON (1.2A)
max_usb_current = 0

in this way the raspberry is weakened to offer a better sound and the error has never occurred again.
However, I realize that it is necessary to offer adequate power both to the display and to the raspberry plus the Digi HAT in a case suitable for the rest of the hifi system. Finally, I realized the usefulness of a power button that allows me to easily switch the streamer on / off.

I decided to write here, first of all because my skills in electronics and assembly were exhausted with the construction of the first streamer (which is practically child's play, everything is ready for use!) And because I believe that a DYI solution is the most economically sustainable. In recent months I have searched a lot and the idea that I made of the future streamer could be very close to an approach of this type: (I specify that I would like to keep as many pieces as possible made in the first purchase)

Raspberry Pi Hi-Fi Audio Streamer With Touchscreen Control and Max2Play : 9 Steps - Instructables

I created a render of what I imagine:
in the front side the touch display, inserted in a ventilated rectangular case, the power button on one side, behind the coaxial socket and the LAN socket, in addition to the power socket of a toroidal linear power supply, a small on / off switch; inside the raspberry, the digi HAT, the linear power supply, possibly all located on the bottom of the case, to avoid extension cables.
My main goal is to get the best possible audio quality with the least expense, in the simplest way possible.

The environment in which the streamer must be inserted is above the current amplifier, which heats up a lot, so the case will have to take up as little space as possible. I attach photos. I specify that it is an IKEA cube suspended and affixed to the wall. The maximum dimensions of the environment are 43 cm wide, 28 cm deep (the same depth as the amplifier), 11 cm high. Considering that I would like to be able to take advantage of the support base of the SmartPi Touch, 18 cm wide, a possible case could be 22x28x10.

As I said, I read a lot and there are beautiful DIY projects that I found, but with few details on the method, made by people who are experts in electronics, welding, carpentry etc:

HifiBerry streamer in a classic audio case | HiFiBerry
Music Server….my way | Sound&Music Blog
HiFi Streamer : Build thread - Diy Volumio Projects - Volumio
https://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?62839-Audiophonics-RaspTouch-case-with-DigiOne
Best way to lay out multiple power supplies (Raspberry streamer)

On the topic "best linear power supply for Raspberry" there are a large number of links and tips:
https://community.volumio.org/t/psu-for-raspberry-3/10012/3
https://musicboxit.wordpress.com/2019/04/24/alimentatore-lineare-raspberry/
https://www.dimdim.gr/2018/03/linear-power-supply-for-the-raspberry-pi-is-it-worth-it/
http://www.raspyfi.com/the-best-raspberry-pi-power-supply/
I have a keen eye on the wallet so I have found some PSU from China that could be right for me, honestly I don't understand anything about the differences:
https://www.ebay.it/itm/Assemble-5V...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/3289...88#3325#6_668#2846#8108#112_668#2717#7565#748

(which is the same but without the connectors)
https://www.ebay.it/itm/HiFi-Walt-J...784995?hash=item594102b1e3:g:QEgAAOSwGTheBwAt

I read that it would be preferable to avoid using the USB connectors present in the first link and to use the stripped cables, but I think it is necessary to carry out soldering. This is definitely the part I ignore most. Do I need something else for power connection?

For the power button I would have found this solution, the RemotePi (only the version for PI 4 is available from their website):
https://www.msldigital.com/collecti...s/remotepi-board-for-pi-4-external-ir-and-led
that together with an extension cable of the GPIO and a ready-made LED button should allow me without soldering anything to have the button together with the HAT (I asked by email directly to them for confirmation, and they said that the RemotePi can power all together correctly with the USB-C socket after the GPIO 18 -> GPIO 17 modification has been done on the RemotePi Board, made by them before purchase).
This solution is particularly convenient, as there is a plugin for Volumio that deals with the software side for the implementation of the various scripts

https://www.msldigital.com/collecti...nated-pushbutton-for-remotepi-board-for-pi-4b
https://www.msldigital.com/collections/all-products/products/gpio-adapter
https://www.msldigital.com/pages/remotepi-board-compatibility-matrix

finally this could be an alternative to RemotePi, but perhaps more complex:
https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/raspberry-pi-and-other-sbc-accessories/audiophonics-pi-spc-ii-power-management-power-supply-for-raspberry-pi-p-11504.html

So let's come to some technical questions with a premise: I have no skills or equipment in soldering, in advanced electronics, in advanced modding of the Raspberry. I am a normal user who has many questions but little experience!
Going into more detail, what I understood is that it would be preferable to separate the power supply of the Raspberry and the HAT, acting on the single pins of the raspberry.
But with my current HAT, fully welded, how can you get such a thing?
Do you think the linked power supplies are valid for what I try to achieve?
What else should I take into organize everything? Shield the various wires inside the case? With what?

But I realized that you don't need a reckocler (like Kali) for the HAT digi:
https://support.hifiberry.com/hc/en-us/community/posts/207749389-HiFiBerry-Digi-Pro-beta-test?page=5

Coming to the case, obviously I am not able to handle aluminum in an advanced way. In your opinion, could wood be a valid alternative? I have seen many projects in this regard, but almost everything involved an aluminum base and a wooden case around it.
I close by saying that I know people who could help me both for the advanced electronic part and for the construction of the case (I hope in wood). I would like to receive advice if the road I am traveling on is right. Maybe someone after me will find it useful.

Thanks!

Greetings from Italy!

Gianluca

 

[jjasniew]

I'm a noob when it comes to the pi based audio too; I went with Moode, which throws up a web browser GUI eliminating the screen, all its power and HDMI signaling from the system. It's a genuine "IOT" device (versus stand-alone appliance) and I can control media play and volume from any computer I happen to be using, including the phone.

Otherwise i cant do anything except turn it off without going through another computer -

I went with the AMP2 hat instead of a DAC, which provides power to the pi. I've yet to try a linear supply on the amp and separate one for the pi, as the included switcher on the amp for powering the pi is just too convenient.

I see some using Farads of filter capacitance on their pi power supply and saying it makes a sonic difference - maybe so, but I'm not in that arena yet with this type of setup; more like just big toe in the water. I'd certainly try the linear supply (up to 25V) I have on the amp first, it would be easy enough to build a 5V linear as a second step to sort out any sonic gains therewith.

Good luck on your project!

 

[bassigia]

I'm a noob when it comes to the pi based audio too; I went with Moode, which throws up a web browser GUI eliminating the screen, all its power and HDMI signaling from the system. It's a genuine "IOT" device (versus stand-alone appliance) and I can control media play and volume from any computer I happen to be using, including the phone.

Otherwise i cant do anything except turn it off without going through another computer -

I went with the AMP2 hat instead of a DAC, which provides power to the pi. I've yet to try a linear supply on the amp and separate one for the pi, as the included switcher on the amp for powering the pi is just too convenient.

I see some using Farads of filter capacitance on their pi power supply and saying it makes a sonic difference - maybe so, but I'm not in that arena yet with this type of setup; more like just big toe in the water. I'd certainly try the linear supply (up to 25V) I have on the amp first, it would be easy enough to build a 5V linear as a second step to sort out any sonic gains therewith.

Good luck on your project!

Thank you jjasniew for your reply. I hope someone will tell me some tips about my project!

 

[bassigia]

Hi everyone,
Quick update:
I finally receive all pieces from MSL (Remote PI, power button, led and GPIO extender) and put together with success on Volumio.

A problem appear with the toroidal power supply from China:
Assemblaggio 5V USB 15W Alimentatore lineare HIFI Talema Transformers | eBay

using the two USB OUT (one to the display, and the other to the USB-C of the Remote Pi, Volumio doesn't boot properly, a error message appear "under voltage detected". So for the moment I use two cheap wall charger (one for display, one for Remote Pi)
Anyone knows some toroidal power supply easy to use?

A solution like this is easy to achieve? No knowledge here of advanced electronic
Review: Raspberry Pi 2 as Music Streamer | Part-Time Audiophile

I found a "cheap" toroidal power supply:
Audiophile Super-Netzteile, High-End Analog Netzteile für DA-Wandler; Raspberry Pi

Anyone use one of their products?


Many thanks

Gian

 

[hopkins]

The USB-C is connector is problematic. It was fixed in a board revision in february, but unfortunately when you buy a Pi4, you have no way of knowing which board revision you get. Here is an article explaining this: Raspberry Pi admits to faulty USB-C design on the Pi 4 | Ars Technica

The Pi 4 I purchased a week ago on Amazon was not the latest board, for example. I ended up soldering some wires to a DC Jack from the GPIO pins.

Regardless of the issue above, I don't like using the USB-C plug to power the Pi, as it is not offer a solid fit, and some USB-C cables and adapters don't have great wiring (too thin) IMO.

 

[bassigia]

Hi hopkins,
thanks for your reply.
Maybe I make myself unclear but the setup I'm using is the following:

- Raspberry PI 3 B +
- RemotePi
RemotePi Board for Pi 4 (External IR and LED) – MSL Digital Solutions
with GPIO Adapter
GPIO Adapter – MSL Digital Solutions
then I add a external button, led and IR Remote, all from MSL
finally the Audiophonics Digi Pro HAT
So the RemotePi gives power to everthing (except the display touch)

So far, everything runs smoothly

 

[mrgarison]

Nice work Gianluca!

I've been thinking of doing something similar.

I have:

1 x Pi4 B+
1 x TPA3255 Aiyima Amplifier
1 x 7 inch touch screen

So, I want to be able to navigate my hard drive of music on the Pi screen. I also want to play high quality music and control it from my phone. My understanding is people choose Moode, case and point Joe above .

Have you tried using it without the Hat and just having the DAC connected to the USB output? What is the benefit of having a Hat? Keep your hair tidy?

 

[linuxfan]

Gianluca, I have a BeagleBone Black - similar to a Raspberry Pi - which I power from a linear power supply.
Having stated my own situation, it should be noted that the benefit, if any, of using a linear power supply for such an application is somewhat contentious. I have not done a critical comparison between using my linear supply versus the original SMPS, but I'm doubtful I could hear much, if any, difference. And I suspect any differences may only be noticeable with high end DAC/amplification/speakers, possibly higher end than my 3e-audio TPA3151 amp and MarkAudio speakers, which are quite respectable hifi products in their own right.

One thing I can tell you is that single board computers can have power management logic which dislikes the relatively slow voltage rise-time of linear power supplies - and this is probably why your rPi refuses to boot up when connected to your linear supply.

If I build another computer-based music server in the future, I don't think I will bother with a linear supply for the computer, just a good quality, well filtered, switch-mode power supply. Such as -
MEAN WELL GS15B-1P1J
GS15B-MEAN WELL Switching Power Supply Manufacturer
or ALLO Nirvana
Nirvana SMPS

I suggest you do the same.

But let me go further, and recommend an overall configuration upgrade for your system:
your amplifier and speakers are respectable, but I think the weak point will be the your amplifier's internal DAC. Google tells me the Advance Acoustic X-i60 was approx US$600 new, and its internal DAC is CS4344. Ignoring this modest specification for a moment, consider that the portion of a $600 total price that will be assigned to the DAC will be very limited.

I suggest adding a respectable DAC, either a hat-DAC for the rPi in the form of an ALLO Boss (this will replace your Digipi+ PRO hat)
BOSS I2S DAC v 1.2
and yes, this hat-DAC might benefit by powering it separately from a linear power supply!

Or if you prefer a separate standalone DAC, which provides flexibility for use with other digital source devices, then I suggest the SMSL Sanskrit 10th AK4493 edition
WolfX700 Measurement of SMSL Sanskrit 10th AK4493 Edition | Audio Science Review (ASR) Forum
or Topping D30
Topping E30 DAC Review | Audio Science Review (ASR) Forum

 

[jonners]

+1 for linuxfan's USB DAC recommendations. I have the SMSL Sanskrit !0th Mk.2 and it's at the level of my Allo Katana which, with separate power supplies to each board, was a lot more expensive.
A good future upgrade would be to replace the RPi3B+ with the Allo USBridge Signature.

 

[linuxfan]

To correct the typographical errors in my previous post: my amp is TPA3251, the Topping DAC I recommend is E30.

 

[linuxfan]

In answer to some of your other questions:

For the power button I would have found this solution, the RemotePi

Yes, that requires no wiring/soldering, but it does require some basic skill in drilling holes and mounting the board - with metal or nylon standoffs - so that the power button is correctly exposed at the face of whatever case you choose.

only the version for PI 4 is available from their website

I see the version for Pi 3B and Pi 3B+ here -
RemotePi Board for Pi 3B and Pi 3B+ – MSL Digital Solutions
but the IR sensor is attached to the board - that just means you would need to be more careful about how you mount this board in your case.

this could be an alternative to RemotePi, but perhaps more complex:
AUDIOPHONICS PI-SPC II module

Well that would involve wiring an external switch. Basic stuff, but if you don't know how to solder, it's a problem.

Coming to the case, obviously I am not able to handle aluminum in an advanced way.
...
I know people who could help me both for the advanced electronic part and for the construction of the case (I hope in wood).

Wood cases are OK for audio projects - just keep it away from phones, modems, wifi routers etc. If you cannot locate the case suitably, and end up having induced noise issues, a possible solution may be to line the interior with EMI/RFI shielding tape.

I read that it would be preferable to avoid using the USB connectors present in the first link and to use the stripped cables
...
Do I need something else for power connection?

Well the rPi's 5V input is exposed on the expansion header - but once you attach a hat, these header pins are obscured. Some hats (including your Audiophonics) will provide access to the 5V pin - but only by soldering an additional header (or by soldering a DC input wire directly).
This is not worth the trouble and risk. Just use the microUSB (rPi 3B+) or USB-C (rPi 4B) input for power, and be careful not to bend or loosen this connector.

what I understood is that it would be preferable to separate the power supply of the Raspberry and the HAT

In my opinion - yes, but only if you have a true hat-DAC (which includes analogue circuitry).
For a s/pdif encoder hat, separate power is not necessary in my opinion ...

... which brings me back to my earlier point - I think you need to upgrade to a hat-DAC or external DAC.

what I understood is that it would be preferable to separate the power supply of the Raspberry and the HAT, acting on the single pins of the raspberry.
But with my current HAT, fully welded, how can you get such a thing?

Some hats provide a header or switch which disables the 5V power input from the rPi, then provides additional connection for separate 5V power input. For the ALLO Boss - which I recommend for you - here's the relevant section from the manual -

 

[DRONE7]

Soldering ??
I would have thought this a basic requirement in a DIY forum ? or perhaps I am old and the world (and it's terminology) has moved on...

 

[linuxfan]

Yeah, just trying to help a forum member who has honestly declared their limited DIY ability.
There are a lot of people out there who don't have electronics and mechanical skills. But who knows, maybe flushed with success of this basic assembly exercise, bassigia may buy a soldering iron, watch some instructional videos on YouTube, and move on to greater things!

And DRONE, let's show that we Aussies have a great command of English grammar; the possessive form of "it" has no apostrophe.

 

[bassigia]

Hi everyone, sorry for the delay (I was on holiday!)

I try to reply to all the positive and constructive comments I read:

@mrgarison

My understanding is people choose Moode.

I also tried Moode over Volumio just for fun, but I prefer Volumio, it's italian (so I'm very proud of it) and it's much more easier and user friendly and nicer UI than Moode, at least for me!

Have you tried using it without the Hat and just having the DAC connected to the USB output? What is the benefit of having a Hat? Keep your hair tidy?

No, I never tried to use only USB of the Raspberry. I read on the web of not doing this but prefer for many reason the HAT, less noise, much accurance on the music etc..

@linuxfan
First of all many many thanks! You give me so precious information. I owe you a beer!

Here my replies!

I have a BeagleBone Black - similar to a Raspberry Pi - which I power from a linear power supply.

What power supply?

using a linear power supply for such an application is somewhat contentious

Yeah, I know, it's difficult to have a right or wrong answer, It depends on own setup, BUT, every professional digital audio gear (amplifiers, DAC, CD) have one so....

I think the weak point will be the your amplifier's internal DAC

Yeah, you said right, the Cirrus Logic it's 4-5 dollar DAC, I think the Advance Acoustic guys had to save the money somewhere, it's a pity. Fortunately for me I don't have to play 24 bit FLAC files, but only webradio streaming FLAC and spotify!
But you have right, the allo boss you linked seems very good. I only have to understand if matches with the remotepi.

Yes, this hat-DAC might benefit by powering it separately from a linear power supply!

Just what I looking for!

Or if you prefer a separate standalone DAC

I prefer not, cause I want to keep all the stuff in a new aluminum case I'm going to built (I'll posting some photos too)

Yes, that requires no wiring/soldering, but it does require some basic skill in drilling holes and mounting the board - with metal or nylon standoffs - so that the power button is correctly exposed at the face of whatever case you choose.

Done in the new case! Same answer for the IR sensor!

Wood cases are OK for audio projects - just keep it away from phones, modems, wifi routers etc. If you cannot locate the case suitably, and end up having induced noise issues, a possible solution may be to line the interior with EMI/RFI shielding tape.

The EMI/RFI shielding tape is a good tip, maybe do you have some link to share?

Just use the microUSB (rPi 3B+) or USB-C (rPi 4B) input for power, and be careful not to bend or loosen this connector.

Perfect

Some hats provide a header or switch which disables the 5V power input from the rPi, then provides additional connection for separate 5V power input

Okay, this is my turning point question: let's imagine that I purchase the allo boss and replace over the audiophonics board. And of course I will power it separately from RemotePi (or raspberry) with a linear power supply.
So I will have:
1 LPS for allo boss
1 SMPS for RemotePi
1 power supply for the display (let's say the Leicke power supply I own already)
So many power supply and plugs! My intention is to keep all the stuff inside the case and with less plug externally. How can I achieve that?
I imagine something like this:
Whity's Audiophile HiFiBerry Streamer in a Classic Stereo Case | Max2Play
It's a challenge, I know, but maybe with a help of a good sound engineer

this is the power supply linked:
Audiophile Super-Netzteile, High-End Analog Netzteile für DA-Wandler; Raspberry Pi

I found another interesting thread at volumio, of a guy that wants to build something very similar:
HiFi Streamer : Build thread - Diy Volumio Projects - Volumio

this is the chinese power supply using at first, maybe it's a cheap solution for the remotepi and allo boss?
25VA Ultra-Basso rumore uscita alimentatore Linear corrente continua 12V 2A UPGRADE DAC | eBay

many thanks!

 

[bassigia]

or even better this:
DC 25W DC5V 3.5A Dual Output Port Ultra Basso Rumore Alimentatore stabilizzato lineare | eBay

 

[bassigia]

here the work in progress of the aluminum chassis:

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

It was made in collaboration with the dad of my girlfriend: as you can see we add a grilled panel on the bottom to improve heat dissipation, we use two linear angular aluminum bar and then we fold it.
https://images.homedepot-static.com...80d7f2b/svn/everbilt-angles-802587-64_300.jpg
Then we attach both as you can see in photos. Really like result so far!
You can see the holes of raspberry, the switch button, the ir sensor and the led; and the power supply input and finally the coaxial output of the digi+ pro. Miss the top cover, It will be probably made of wood with a aluminum grid for heat dissipation, and a hole for the display touch:
https://www.ebay.it/itm/Alluminio-L...var=522808794012&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Finally on the bottom 4 of this:
https://www.ebay.it/itm/Antivibrazi...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

[linuxfan]

What power supply?

For the BeagleBone Black - a DIY LT1764 regulator designed by forum member jean-paul (no longer available) -
Squeezebox Touch PSU
For the isolation/re-clocking board - a DIY TPS7A4700 regulator designed by forum member mravlca (no longer available) -
TPS7A4700 low noise LDO regulator PCB
See attached photo.

I understand that you prefer a hat-DAC instead of a standalone DAC. That's fine. It's just a little unfortunate that you won't benefit from the recent advances in affordable standalone DAC's. Three companies: Topping, SMSL, and Schiit, are in rapid competition in this area right now.
That aside, for a hat-DAC the ALLO Boss is, arguably, the best bang-for-buck choice - but I would call it a "mid-level" hifi product, not high-end ...

which leads me to your choice of power supplies - my suggestion:
The eBay power supply that you already have is a good, but not great (it has an LT1085 regulator chip) and maybe not best for the hat-DAC.
I would use it to power the rPi.
Your LEICKE SMPS is fine for the display.

The big decision is what to use for the ALLO Boss. Be aware that the Boss has several high quality LT3042 voltage regulators onboard, so your 5V supply will actually be a pre-regulator. As a pre-regulator I would choose a product which also has a high quality regulator chip - but something different from the LT304x family.
My choice would be an LT3080 regulator -
Other kits – K & K Audio
or ADM7150 regulator
1.0uV Ultralow noise DAC power supply regulator 3.3V 5.0V 800mA - DIYINHK
but these are kits, and they require assembly, soldering, and wiring of 240VAC to a power switch - I don't want to recommend this if you don't have experience in this area! 240VAC can kill you if you get it wrong!

So your options must be restricted to finished products. The THEL NT-HQ power supply you listed looks good, but is quite expensive, and THEL doesn't reveal the regulator technology they use.
Regarding the eBay and AliExpress power supplies you listed - some of them have good specifications, but I worry that they may not have been tested and optimised, and maybe not constructed with electrical safety in mind!
There's one particular eBay regulator which has been tested on this forum, and is well regarded for analogue audio devices -
STUDER900 regulated power supply linear power supply 5V 6V 7V 9V 12V 15V 24V | eBay
It's fully cased, but you could still mount it inside your aluminium case if you wish.
Or as another alternative - the ALLO Nirvana power supply -
https://www.allo.com/sparky/nirvana-smps.html
Yes, this is a switch-mode power supply, but it is highly filtered, and has been extensively measured and tested by ALLO for low noise and ripple.

let's imagine that I purchase the allo boss and replace over the audiophonics board. And of course I will power it separately from RemotePi

Let's just be clear about what the RemotePi does - it initiates a software command for the rPi to power-off (that's the really important function) ... then apparently it ALSO switches off the 5V supply to the rPi.
i) but AC power to the 5V power supply will still be ON, so the 5V power supply is still actually turned on.
ii) I think the RemotePi only allows one 5V circuit to be switched on/off, not multiple 5V supplies as will be your situation.
Personally I would prefer to have such a unit control only the software shutdown of the rPi - then I would prefer to manually turn off the power supplies, myself, with switches on the front of my case.

 

[bassigia]

For the BeagleBone Black - a DIY LT1764 regulator designed by forum member jean-paul (no longer available) -
Squeezebox Touch PSU
For the isolation/re-clocking board - a DIY TPS7A4700 regulator designed by forum member mravlca (no longer available) -
TPS7A4700 low noise LDO regulator PCB
See attached photo.

I't s a pity that they are no longer available

The eBay power supply that you already have is a good, but not great (it has an LT1085 regulator chip) and maybe not best for the hat-DAC.

I don't have it anymore, send it back

I was thinking that it's going to be very complicated focusing on the raspberry. So I decided this:
I have an old CD player (Sony CDP-XE330) that I want to replace.
So I'm looking for a CD Player with digital input and DAC inside, which I can connect the digi+ pro with coaxial and exit from his Analog Output to the Ampli RCA input, bypassing Ampli's DAC.
In this way I don't have to buy too many equipment for raspberry but only one!
My candidate was the Cambridge Audio Azur 740C, reviews and specs seems good, hard to find in black version but I have patience!

Only thing I want to buy for RPI is this:
WEILIANG AUDIO 25W lineare di alimentazione regolata di alimentazione doppia uscita|adapter power|adapter power supplyadapter dc - AliExpress

seller tells me that the voltage regulator chip is the TL431
https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1U2UkXUKF3KVjSZFEq6xExFXap.jpg

I don't know if it's good or not, but It should be okay for power RemotePi and display touch!

Gian

 

[linuxfan]

I'm looking for a CD Player with digital input and DAC inside, which I can connect the digi+ pro with coaxial and exit from his Analog Output
My candidate was the Cambridge Audio Azur 740C

??? Gian, that's a very strange choice.
If you set up a hifi system centred around a good digital playback device in the form of a Raspberry Pi, why do you need a CD player at all? It's like standing with one foot in the 21st century, but keeping one foot stuck in the 1980's!! Surely it's better to rip your CD collection to hard drive (or network-attached storage) and store your CD's away in the attic!

Sure, the CA Azur 740C can be used as a D/A converter for the rPi, but since you now seem comfortable with the concept of a separate "box" for this role, instead buy a latest-technology standalone DAC -
SMSL Sanskrit 10th AK4493 edition - 95 Euros
SMSL Sanskrit 10th MKII AK4493 XMOS SK10 MKII High End USB DAC Decoder 32Bit /768KHZ DSD256|Digital-to-Analog Converter| - AliExpress
or Toppinng E30 - 112 Euros
TOPPING E30 MINI HIFI USB DAC AK4493 decoder XMOS XU208 32BIT / 768Khz DSD512|Digital-to-Analog Converter| - AliExpress
These DAC's are likely to cost less than a CA Azur 740C - I see only 2x 740C's on eBay right now, and both are over 500 Euros!!
You can connect your rPi to the DAC via coaxial s/pdif - but I suspect it may sound better connected via USB.
Your Sony CDP-XE330 is fine to keep - for the times that a "new" CD comes into your house, and since the DAC allows multiple inputs, you can connect the CD player to the DAC via optical s/pdif - then there's a fair chance it will sound better than with its (old technology) internal DAC!

 

[linuxfan]

Only thing I want to buy for RPI is this:
WEILIANG AUDIO 25W linear regulated power supply

That's a Chinese clone/adaptation of a Walt Jung design. I doubt there's much to be gained from using such a power supply on a Raspberry Pi/spdif encoder hat/display. It's been my experience that power supply upgrades apply more to analogue circuits ... so if you buy one of the DAC's I mentioned, these might benefit from such a power supply (?) Then again, those DAC's were designed with good power supply filtering, so a power supply "upgrade" for them might be folly.
Like many things in hifi, and you won't know the result until you try.
It may be worth reading other people's impressions of similar equipment - in this forum thread;
A new kid on the block...Topping E30
In post #6 Forum member Opti-cal claims to hear a slight improvement with the E30 DAC using an iFi iPower.