@sq225917,
In my system, the sound difference between I/V transformers can be heard very clearly.
My system is (after I/V):
PASS XP-10 + PASS XA160.5 + B&W 802 D2
I use transformer I/V boards in fully balanced configuration with XLR cables, as well as the pre-amplifier and power amplifiers.
I'll share my testing result with you soon.
BTW, how did you connect LL1674? Same as 1544A?
Regards,
Ian
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Hello again guys.
Can I ask again please for some help connecting optical spdif to the dac. I got a receiver from DIYINHK and I fathomed out the wiring. Quite simple really. 3.3v/ GND/ SpPdif. So I connected this up to the DAC but I get nothing from it. The lock lights were lit but no signal displayed on the controller. I did have the Rpi powered but I hadn't booted up Volumio or even connected the ethernet.
Guidance much appreciated.
Can I ask again please for some help connecting optical spdif to the dac. I got a receiver from DIYINHK and I fathomed out the wiring. Quite simple really. 3.3v/ GND/ SpPdif. So I connected this up to the DAC but I get nothing from it. The lock lights were lit but no signal displayed on the controller. I did have the Rpi powered but I hadn't booted up Volumio or even connected the ethernet.
Guidance much appreciated.
@jimk04,
To get assistance on troubleshooting an issue like this, you need to provide much information on your setup so that we can know enough to be helpful. Please provide:
- An overview of your stack... what cards from bottom to top, any special adaptations or modifications, what software and configuration you use, how you are operating the DAC board (ASRC or Sync mode), how each board is powered .
- Info on the DIYINHK receiver... info on it from the source, how you've hooked it up.
- Your optical S/PDIF source (TOSLINK)... what it is, confirmation that it has worked as a source in other setups like this before, descriptions of those setups.
- Pictures of the overall stack, detailed pix of your general mods / adaptations including hooking up the DIYINHK TOSLINK board.
- List of what you've tried for troubleshooting so far.
With info like that listed above we'd have a chance at assessing what's going on and providing useful information. Without it, we'd have to start a long string of question and answer posts to get to a point where we could even make partially-informed guesses.
AND I did go back through some of your previous posts on this setup... but even with that, I can only guess how you have it setup and running today.
Sincerely.
Greg in Mississippi
To get assistance on troubleshooting an issue like this, you need to provide much information on your setup so that we can know enough to be helpful. Please provide:
- An overview of your stack... what cards from bottom to top, any special adaptations or modifications, what software and configuration you use, how you are operating the DAC board (ASRC or Sync mode), how each board is powered .
- Info on the DIYINHK receiver... info on it from the source, how you've hooked it up.
- Your optical S/PDIF source (TOSLINK)... what it is, confirmation that it has worked as a source in other setups like this before, descriptions of those setups.
- Pictures of the overall stack, detailed pix of your general mods / adaptations including hooking up the DIYINHK TOSLINK board.
- List of what you've tried for troubleshooting so far.
With info like that listed above we'd have a chance at assessing what's going on and providing useful information. Without it, we'd have to start a long string of question and answer posts to get to a point where we could even make partially-informed guesses.
AND I did go back through some of your previous posts on this setup... but even with that, I can only guess how you have it setup and running today.
Sincerely.
Greg in Mississippi
Spdif assitance
So here is my stack.
Rpi>Isolator v2> dual mono dac> ivstd
Salas L adapter > isolator powering Rpi
Salas L adapter > isolator powering audio
Ebay triple LT1963 > powering 3 rails at 3.3v into dac
Studer 900 psu > ivstd output stage.
All works fine though the RCA into my amplification. Running Volumio. No FIFO board so I am ASRC?
DIYINHK board here
192K Optical SPDIF receiver - DIYINHK
It is based on the TORX147 spdif receiver. I tested the VCC pad on the Ian dac and I do get 3.3v there.
I removed my optical cable from my other dac that is fed from my TV. Has never been problematic. Inserted into spdif receiver on Ian dac. No sound..no signal present on the display.
I thought maybe it is because the Rpi is powered and the i2s signals are priority. Although I hadn't booted Volumio.
Tried disconnecting power for the Pi from the isolator but it doesn't work at all.
If there is anything else required please ask.
I am going to to a bit more fiddling
So here is my stack.
Rpi>Isolator v2> dual mono dac> ivstd
Salas L adapter > isolator powering Rpi
Salas L adapter > isolator powering audio
Ebay triple LT1963 > powering 3 rails at 3.3v into dac
Studer 900 psu > ivstd output stage.
All works fine though the RCA into my amplification. Running Volumio. No FIFO board so I am ASRC?
DIYINHK board here
192K Optical SPDIF receiver - DIYINHK
It is based on the TORX147 spdif receiver. I tested the VCC pad on the Ian dac and I do get 3.3v there.
I removed my optical cable from my other dac that is fed from my TV. Has never been problematic. Inserted into spdif receiver on Ian dac. No sound..no signal present on the display.
I thought maybe it is because the Rpi is powered and the i2s signals are priority. Although I hadn't booted Volumio.
Tried disconnecting power for the Pi from the isolator but it doesn't work at all.
If there is anything else required please ask.
I am going to to a bit more fiddling
Attachments
Transformer I/V party, listening test results
I’m working on this comparison test for a while. I'd like to share my results here with you. Sorry for the delay. I could be wrong. Just for you to reference. I picked up these three because they have the same configuration. I could have more reports for others down the road.
#3 eBay 600:10K audio transformer
I bought this pair of 600:10K transformers off eBay. They are not expensive but look pretty decent. I didn’t expect too much from them. However the real listening test did give me some surprise. They have all the sound signature of a typical transformer I/v stage. Nature, analog, peaceful and without any additional flavor. I would stack with them if didn’t experience the other two. I ran them at my LL1544A transformer I/V PCB with same schematic and same configuration. The only thing is that the footprints don’t fit very well. If I have chance to design the transformer I/V II PCB I’d like to make it compatible with them.
If you have never tried the transformer I/V, I would highly recommend this one as starting point.
#2 LL1544A
My transformer I/V PCB was originally designed for them. I have been using them for a long time before I had the BisesiK transformers. I have to say I’m very familiar with the sound. For me, it’s my first transformer I/V that could touch the ‘high end’ in my heart. Besides all the sound signature of a typical transformer I/V stage, LL1544A has higher sound density and plays music more dynamically. Especially it has a very beautiful mid-high range which makes the music a little sweet feeling. I enjoy listening to my favorite vocal jazz with them very much. I could listen to music for a long time almost forgot I was doing comparison test.
LL1544A I/V stage will suitable for all kinds of music and all kinds of system
#1 Bisesik transformers
I must put them in the first position though they are not the kind of transformer I/V that you can fall in love with them immediately at the first time you use them. However, after two weeks of run in, I’m getting in love with them more and more and for now I almost can’t live without them.
If I had only one word to express them I would use the word ‘perfect’. They are not good at certain frequency range but good at all frequency ranges. The low rang could be extended much lower (why they are so big?) than other transformers which feature could be looked upon as common weakness of all transformer I/V stages. So I’m considering maybe I could degrade my speakers from B&W802 to B&W803 because of that. Just kidding! They sound not only with higher density at full frequency range but also play music much vividly. The bigger stage and bigger band you are listening, the stronger you feel about that. If I had another word to use, I would use the word ‘musical’. They play all music with emotion. You can feel the whole atmosphere surrounding you. When I’m listening violin with them, I almost couldn’t help cry. The Bisesik transformers are suitable for all kinds of music. But if you really like the classical music, my advice is that sticks with this one no need to consider any others.
I had a pair of Japanese Oyaide AR-910 pure silver XLR cables. They are pretty decent but I always feel the high range sounds a bit strange when I use them with other I/V stage. However, with Bisesik transformer, everything becomes correct and precision. When I use this configuration listening the sound track of film Pirates of the Caribbean, The Curse of the Black Pearl (I like the big band), I was almost shocked. The huge band and the whole stage were surrounding me and I can hear each hidden details. All instruments are playing vividly together at their positing. I can feel each of them. This feeling could be even better than I was in a real theater.
Though I put Bisesik transformers in the first position, but I wouldn’t recommend them for you if your system is not good enough. The better system you have, the more advantage of these transformers you can feel.
My system for listening test
Transformer I/V for test
1. ES9038Q2M DM DAC HAT (with three independent 3.3V voltage rails)
2. ShiledPi
3. FifpPi with Pulsar 90.xxx MHz clock
4. ReceiverPi
5. RPi3
6. LiefPO4 power supply with ultra capacitor conditioners at both 5V RPi rail and the 3.3V FifoPi clock rail.
The rest of the system
1. B&W 802 D2 speakers
2. PASS XA160.5 amplifiers
3. PASS XP-10 per-amplifiers
TransformerIvParty by Ian, on Flickr
BW802PASSXA160.5 by Ian, on Flickr
Ian
I’m working on this comparison test for a while. I'd like to share my results here with you. Sorry for the delay. I could be wrong. Just for you to reference. I picked up these three because they have the same configuration. I could have more reports for others down the road.
#3 eBay 600:10K audio transformer
I bought this pair of 600:10K transformers off eBay. They are not expensive but look pretty decent. I didn’t expect too much from them. However the real listening test did give me some surprise. They have all the sound signature of a typical transformer I/v stage. Nature, analog, peaceful and without any additional flavor. I would stack with them if didn’t experience the other two. I ran them at my LL1544A transformer I/V PCB with same schematic and same configuration. The only thing is that the footprints don’t fit very well. If I have chance to design the transformer I/V II PCB I’d like to make it compatible with them.
If you have never tried the transformer I/V, I would highly recommend this one as starting point.
#2 LL1544A
My transformer I/V PCB was originally designed for them. I have been using them for a long time before I had the BisesiK transformers. I have to say I’m very familiar with the sound. For me, it’s my first transformer I/V that could touch the ‘high end’ in my heart. Besides all the sound signature of a typical transformer I/V stage, LL1544A has higher sound density and plays music more dynamically. Especially it has a very beautiful mid-high range which makes the music a little sweet feeling. I enjoy listening to my favorite vocal jazz with them very much. I could listen to music for a long time almost forgot I was doing comparison test.
LL1544A I/V stage will suitable for all kinds of music and all kinds of system
#1 Bisesik transformers
I must put them in the first position though they are not the kind of transformer I/V that you can fall in love with them immediately at the first time you use them. However, after two weeks of run in, I’m getting in love with them more and more and for now I almost can’t live without them.
If I had only one word to express them I would use the word ‘perfect’. They are not good at certain frequency range but good at all frequency ranges. The low rang could be extended much lower (why they are so big?) than other transformers which feature could be looked upon as common weakness of all transformer I/V stages. So I’m considering maybe I could degrade my speakers from B&W802 to B&W803 because of that. Just kidding! They sound not only with higher density at full frequency range but also play music much vividly. The bigger stage and bigger band you are listening, the stronger you feel about that. If I had another word to use, I would use the word ‘musical’. They play all music with emotion. You can feel the whole atmosphere surrounding you. When I’m listening violin with them, I almost couldn’t help cry. The Bisesik transformers are suitable for all kinds of music. But if you really like the classical music, my advice is that sticks with this one no need to consider any others.
I had a pair of Japanese Oyaide AR-910 pure silver XLR cables. They are pretty decent but I always feel the high range sounds a bit strange when I use them with other I/V stage. However, with Bisesik transformer, everything becomes correct and precision. When I use this configuration listening the sound track of film Pirates of the Caribbean, The Curse of the Black Pearl (I like the big band), I was almost shocked. The huge band and the whole stage were surrounding me and I can hear each hidden details. All instruments are playing vividly together at their positing. I can feel each of them. This feeling could be even better than I was in a real theater.
Though I put Bisesik transformers in the first position, but I wouldn’t recommend them for you if your system is not good enough. The better system you have, the more advantage of these transformers you can feel.
My system for listening test
Transformer I/V for test
1. ES9038Q2M DM DAC HAT (with three independent 3.3V voltage rails)
2. ShiledPi
3. FifpPi with Pulsar 90.xxx MHz clock
4. ReceiverPi
5. RPi3
6. LiefPO4 power supply with ultra capacitor conditioners at both 5V RPi rail and the 3.3V FifoPi clock rail.
The rest of the system
1. B&W 802 D2 speakers
2. PASS XA160.5 amplifiers
3. PASS XP-10 per-amplifiers
TransformerIvParty by Ian, on Flickr
BW802PASSXA160.5 by Ian, on Flickr
Ian
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I did not know Bisesik made them.
Not the best pic, but here it is
Attachments
The distortion of the audio transformer is usually not low. Distortion is just that different people are singing the same song, so even if the audio transformer causes a lot of distortion, it may be good. However, the distortion caused by the audio transformer is not necessarily everyone's favorite.
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I have noticed that there is an isolation transformer in the photo. However, in my experience, it is better to use a well-designed grounding box than an isolation transformer.
The one I'm using for power line is a balanced isolation transformer. This configuration is widely used in recording studios to reduce the noise. Too many PWM devices hooked up to the power line, so it's impossible to take good AC power directly from the wall. My XA160.5 mono blocks consume a lot of power. I have two of those, the 5KVA one sounds better than the 2.5KVA, especially the low range. But both of them are much better than without.
Greg uses PS audio re-generator. I believe it's a better solution but I never got change to experience it.
Now I'm pretty nervous about the power line. It sounds differently in the different period of time. I don't know what's the magic of a 'grounding box', but I think a good EMI filter in front my balanced transformer could still make more help. Anybody has more experiences? I'm looking for the best power line treatment solutions. All suggestions are welcome.
Regards,
Ian
Greg uses PS audio re-generator. I believe it's a better solution but I never got change to experience it.
Now I'm pretty nervous about the power line. It sounds differently in the different period of time. I don't know what's the magic of a 'grounding box', but I think a good EMI filter in front my balanced transformer could still make more help. Anybody has more experiences? I'm looking for the best power line treatment solutions. All suggestions are welcome.
Regards,
Ian
I use a balanced mains transformer, DC blocker first.
Group buy: DCT03 DC trap (filter) for toroidal transformers
Both made a reasonable difference.
Group buy: DCT03 DC trap (filter) for toroidal transformers
Both made a reasonable difference.
There was some discussion and the schematics for Monster HTPS 7000 MkII power conditioners in the Blowtorch thread not long ago. They work great, but possibly can't handle the current requirements of Ian's huge power amps. Maybe the next best thing to a regenerator. Maybe better in some ways than a regenerator too since the big CM filters on each output leg prevent ground loops forming around audio interconnection signal cables and back though power cables for various audio devices. At my place there is one for the stereo and one for the test bench to clean up power noise and ground loops. Then no audio coupling transformers are needed and distortion should go down because of that.
First post with the schematics is at: https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/the...wtorch-preamplifier-iii-2930.html#post5929120 There is a bit more over the next few pages. Its worth reading.
Only place to get them now is ebay, and you only want the MkII version. Sometimes new ones still in an unopened box pop up. Around $500, but worth it. Highly recommended.
First post with the schematics is at: https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/the...wtorch-preamplifier-iii-2930.html#post5929120 There is a bit more over the next few pages. Its worth reading.
Only place to get them now is ebay, and you only want the MkII version. Sometimes new ones still in an unopened box pop up. Around $500, but worth it. Highly recommended.
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Hi Ian! Thanks for review 
Ian, it is really very important task - how to get the clean AC power? In my case I use EATON MX5000 (it is regenerator+UPS in one chassis, in one BIG HEAVYWEIGHTED chassis on the roof) for powering my house, and after that for audio system again the regenerator PS-Audio P10. Actually there is no need to use both of them, but it is hard to running around the house and trying to persuade everyone to sit in the dark while I listen to music
So two regenerators in series connection - just my case. If to describe briefly the difference between wall outlet and Regenerator - listening through the keyhole versus entering to the hall. I see that the main problem of using the transformers and even more so "grounding boxes" - they can not do anything with distorted shape of the main sine curve caused by unsimmetrical load from the city. You simply can not impact to megawatts of city energy, sitting infront of wall outlet in your room 
. Ian you can easily check the shape of sine after or\and before your piggy-transformer (looks like he can not wait to say "oink-oink" - cute ) or even FFT with simple step down transformer - say, with turns ratio of 230:1 - direct to the sound card input, for example.
I have no such melomanic music room at my house and oftenly testing my stuff at my friend' house, and the results of using the regenerators are pretty the same in terms of impact to the SQ.
YouTube
But seems it is possible to use less expensive regenerators than especially designed for audio. Something similar to this stabilizer should make very similar work I believe: Стабилизаторы <<ИнСтаб>> 5000–12000 ВА (настенное исполнение) - купить на сайте официального производителя
Actually it is the AC REGENERATOR. But you forced to sell them below $1000 (for 12kW) if you call it as regular stabilizer instead of magic REGENERATOR
I heard the junior model with DAC (IS350) - the effect was the same as with PSAudio regenerator.
Ian, it is really very important task - how to get the clean AC power? In my case I use EATON MX5000 (it is regenerator+UPS in one chassis, in one BIG HEAVYWEIGHTED chassis on the roof) for powering my house, and after that for audio system again the regenerator PS-Audio P10. Actually there is no need to use both of them, but it is hard to running around the house and trying to persuade everyone to sit in the dark while I listen to music
So two regenerators in series connection - just my case. If to describe briefly the difference between wall outlet and Regenerator - listening through the keyhole versus entering to the hall. I see that the main problem of using the transformers and even more so "grounding boxes" - they can not do anything with distorted shape of the main sine curve caused by unsimmetrical load from the city. You simply can not impact to megawatts of city energy, sitting infront of wall outlet in your room . Ian you can easily check the shape of sine after or\and before your piggy-transformer (looks like he can not wait to say "oink-oink" - cute ) or even FFT with simple step down transformer - say, with turns ratio of 230:1 - direct to the sound card input, for example.I have no such melomanic music room at my house and oftenly testing my stuff at my friend' house, and the results of using the regenerators are pretty the same in terms of impact to the SQ.
YouTube
But seems it is possible to use less expensive regenerators than especially designed for audio. Something similar to this stabilizer should make very similar work I believe: Стабилизаторы <<ИнСтаб>> 5000–12000 ВА (настенное исполнение) - купить на сайте официального производителя
Actually it is the AC REGENERATOR. But you forced to sell them below $1000 (for 12kW) if you call it as regular stabilizer instead of magic REGENERATOR
I heard the junior model with DAC (IS350) - the effect was the same as with PSAudio regenerator.
CM filters (chokes) on power lines will do nothing to prevent ground
loops forming.
Balanced power can help reduce induced hum / noise in existing ground
loops by reducing the fields.
I always prefer just running balanced audio wherever possible. XLR Pin 1 to
chassis, not audio ground.
TCD