Thanks, 50 ohm exactly matches my DAC. And BBB Volumio->Hermes (with Pulsar clocks)->Cronus (with ->50 Ohm coax->HDMIpi chain works fine in sync mode.
But I want to change BBB to RPI 4B. I don't think RPI4 has better sound, but it has upgraded software. What is the best method to change to RPI 4 in this chain?
But I want to change BBB to RPI 4B. I don't think RPI4 has better sound, but it has upgraded software. What is the best method to change to RPI 4 in this chain?
Thanks, that is what I thought I am now reading.
I thought i was saving myself a few bob.
OK
Next task is my lifepo4.
I got it second hand and it was fine for months then gradually started shutting down earlier and earlier until it wouldn’t stay on.
I realised the biggest cap was bulging so swapped that.
It worked great for months after that, then started doing it again.
So it was suggested that I change the other caps. So I did.
It sits powered but in off mode happily indefinitely.
Stating charging. Gets as high as 1.95v then sits there.
When I switch it on with nothing attached, it shuts down again showing ‘short protection’ after ten seconds.
Ian said it will do that if there is not 3V after one second.
I have checked the fuses and briefly looked over the board.
When it is powered on but in OFF state, all but one battery shows 3.35V to 3.65V.
The last one only shows 1.94V.
(It currently only has 8 cells)
When I switch it on, before it shuts down the output shows:
J3 10.68V
j4 10.45V
j2 1.97
j1 3.69
j8 5V
That is the likely cause isn’t it?
The low battery and that needs replacing.
I thought i was saving myself a few bob.
OK
Next task is my lifepo4.
I got it second hand and it was fine for months then gradually started shutting down earlier and earlier until it wouldn’t stay on.
I realised the biggest cap was bulging so swapped that.
It worked great for months after that, then started doing it again.
So it was suggested that I change the other caps. So I did.
It sits powered but in off mode happily indefinitely.
Stating charging. Gets as high as 1.95v then sits there.
When I switch it on with nothing attached, it shuts down again showing ‘short protection’ after ten seconds.
Ian said it will do that if there is not 3V after one second.
I have checked the fuses and briefly looked over the board.
When it is powered on but in OFF state, all but one battery shows 3.35V to 3.65V.
The last one only shows 1.94V.
(It currently only has 8 cells)
When I switch it on, before it shuts down the output shows:
J3 10.68V
j4 10.45V
j2 1.97
j1 3.69
j8 5V
That is the likely cause isn’t it?
The low battery and that needs replacing.
Longer...
On Ian's DAC controller, without that the DAC chips initialize with the default settings which are not those needed for dual-mono operation. I don't believe you'd get sound out but if you do it won't be right until you use his controller.
Ian DOES indicate you can use an appropriate ES9038Q2M Linux driver. BUT I am not aware of any that provide the needed DM configuration settings.
AND from running an ES9038Q2M-based RPi-DAC that uses a driver for configuring the chip in one setup and Ian's in another, I STRONGLY prefer using Ian's HW controller.
On Ian's LiFePO4 board, not much more to add. A low cell in that position will cause exactly the issue you are seeing.
Greg in Mississippi
On Ian's DAC controller, without that the DAC chips initialize with the default settings which are not those needed for dual-mono operation. I don't believe you'd get sound out but if you do it won't be right until you use his controller.
Ian DOES indicate you can use an appropriate ES9038Q2M Linux driver. BUT I am not aware of any that provide the needed DM configuration settings.
AND from running an ES9038Q2M-based RPi-DAC that uses a driver for configuring the chip in one setup and Ian's in another, I STRONGLY prefer using Ian's HW controller.
On Ian's LiFePO4 board, not much more to add. A low cell in that position will cause exactly the issue you are seeing.
Greg in Mississippi
Thank you.
Turns out I can get it up and running fine.
It doesn't mind if it has nothing coming out of J4.
Can i check a few things more?
Currently I have Lifepo4, USBridge Sig, fifopi, transportpi and Khadas Tone Board.
Usbridge powered from 5v Lifepo4 J8 via fifopi J3
Fifopi powered via 3.3v from LifePo4 J2 to fifopi J5
DAC (KTB) power from clean usb on Usbridge USB_DAC J7
Signal from Transportpi via coax to KTB
That makes the most sense so far, doesn't it?
Turns out I can get it up and running fine.
It doesn't mind if it has nothing coming out of J4.
Can i check a few things more?
Currently I have Lifepo4, USBridge Sig, fifopi, transportpi and Khadas Tone Board.
Usbridge powered from 5v Lifepo4 J8 via fifopi J3
Fifopi powered via 3.3v from LifePo4 J2 to fifopi J5
DAC (KTB) power from clean usb on Usbridge USB_DAC J7
Signal from Transportpi via coax to KTB
That makes the most sense so far, doesn't it?
So, to the future.
Buy a replacement battery.
Plus two more to make the full compliment on the LiFePo4
Buy the ESS controller.
Remove the KTB and replace with my Ian Canada Dual Mono ES9038Q2M.
Put on my Ian Canada I/V stage.
Power the USBridge sig and Fifopi as above, right?
Then ideally, the DAC wants three separate 3.3V supplies.
Or one, if bridged. (Bridged just means using one power supply split between the three, is that right?)
Then the I/V wants a 12-15V supply. So, I get to choose whether I use the 13.2V supply and bridge one of the 3.3V or use the three for the DAC and a separate supply for I/V.
What have others done please?
Buy a replacement battery.
Plus two more to make the full compliment on the LiFePo4
Buy the ESS controller.
Remove the KTB and replace with my Ian Canada Dual Mono ES9038Q2M.
Put on my Ian Canada I/V stage.
Power the USBridge sig and Fifopi as above, right?
Then ideally, the DAC wants three separate 3.3V supplies.
Or one, if bridged. (Bridged just means using one power supply split between the three, is that right?)
Then the I/V wants a 12-15V supply. So, I get to choose whether I use the 13.2V supply and bridge one of the 3.3V or use the three for the DAC and a separate supply for I/V.
What have others done please?
I'm not very familiar with Ian's TransportPi and not at all with the Khadas Tone Board. BUT if you are getting music out of it, you've got it going ok.
On the future, 1st a question, which I/V stage do you have? I assume Ian's I/V Std, not his OPA861 I/V, which tops out at +-6V
All of Ian's active I/V stages take a +-V supply... The 2 3.3V-13.5V outputs from Ian's LiFePO4 power supply board configured for +-13.5V (cells in all 10 positions) works very well for his I/V Std and OPA1632 I/V. That also means you only have the 2 3.3V outputs to power the FiFoPi and DM 9038Q2M DAC board
His OPA861 has a lower VMax of +-5V or so (theoretically it can go up to +-6V or a little more, but haven't tried that yet and am not sure I'd recommend it). It works well using either the 2 3.3V outputs or the 3.3V-13.5V ones set to 3.3V with cells only in the BT2, BT5, BT6, and BT7 positions and again configured for +-3.3V. You can also use Ian's LinearPi dual with both outputs set to either 3.3V or 5V and configured for +-V output.
Ian's latest DM 9038Q2M board with 3 3.3V inputs does sound best with 3 separate supplies, but still good with just 1 supplying all 3. Using only Ian's LiFePO4 supply, I suggest the following when using his I/V Std:
5V -> USBBridge Signature, input side of Ian's FiFoPi, and DAC Controller (I tend to feed this into the USBBridge Sig, not the FiFoPi)
1st 3.3V -> output side of Ian's FiFoPi.
2nd 3.3V -> feeding all 3 3.3V inputs on Ian's DM 9038Q2M DAC
both 13.5V outputs configured as +-13.5V -> Ian's I/V Std
I ran the earlier version of his DM 9038Q2M DAC with only 1 3.3V input this way for some time and liked the results a great deal.
You could later add 2 of Ian's fairly new LiFePO4 3.3V Mini supplies slaved off the LiFePO4 board for startup to feed all 3 of his DM 9038Q2M DAC's 3.3V inputs separately.
IF you do have Ian's I/V Std, consider upgrade opamps at some point. I've gotten good results with OPA1642, OPA1612, and the discrete opamps by both Sparkos Labs and NewClassD. The OPA2132 should also be a good choice here but I have not tried it.
I run this board in balanced mode and don't have an opamp in the single-ended output position.
I hope this all helps!
Greg in Mississippi
On the future, 1st a question, which I/V stage do you have? I assume Ian's I/V Std, not his OPA861 I/V, which tops out at +-6V
All of Ian's active I/V stages take a +-V supply... The 2 3.3V-13.5V outputs from Ian's LiFePO4 power supply board configured for +-13.5V (cells in all 10 positions) works very well for his I/V Std and OPA1632 I/V. That also means you only have the 2 3.3V outputs to power the FiFoPi and DM 9038Q2M DAC board
His OPA861 has a lower VMax of +-5V or so (theoretically it can go up to +-6V or a little more, but haven't tried that yet and am not sure I'd recommend it). It works well using either the 2 3.3V outputs or the 3.3V-13.5V ones set to 3.3V with cells only in the BT2, BT5, BT6, and BT7 positions and again configured for +-3.3V. You can also use Ian's LinearPi dual with both outputs set to either 3.3V or 5V and configured for +-V output.
Ian's latest DM 9038Q2M board with 3 3.3V inputs does sound best with 3 separate supplies, but still good with just 1 supplying all 3. Using only Ian's LiFePO4 supply, I suggest the following when using his I/V Std:
5V -> USBBridge Signature, input side of Ian's FiFoPi, and DAC Controller (I tend to feed this into the USBBridge Sig, not the FiFoPi)
1st 3.3V -> output side of Ian's FiFoPi.
2nd 3.3V -> feeding all 3 3.3V inputs on Ian's DM 9038Q2M DAC
both 13.5V outputs configured as +-13.5V -> Ian's I/V Std
I ran the earlier version of his DM 9038Q2M DAC with only 1 3.3V input this way for some time and liked the results a great deal.
You could later add 2 of Ian's fairly new LiFePO4 3.3V Mini supplies slaved off the LiFePO4 board for startup to feed all 3 of his DM 9038Q2M DAC's 3.3V inputs separately.
IF you do have Ian's I/V Std, consider upgrade opamps at some point. I've gotten good results with OPA1642, OPA1612, and the discrete opamps by both Sparkos Labs and NewClassD. The OPA2132 should also be a good choice here but I have not tried it.
I run this board in balanced mode and don't have an opamp in the single-ended output position.
I hope this all helps!
Greg in Mississippi
Yes, it is the I/V STD. It states 12V.
Thanks for this, it is much appreciated.
Sorry, you are saying it takes both 13.2V outputs for the I/V STD?
I have just realised that shipping is much cheaper if I just get the ESS controller as it is under 200g.
I shall wait and see how much the LifePo4 minis come in at I think.
Rather than the Linearpi.
Either way, I think I will stick with, as you say, just the single power to the DAC for now and play with opamps.
I can’t imagine the minis being cheap enough for me to justify right now
Thanks again.
Thanks for this, it is much appreciated.
Sorry, you are saying it takes both 13.2V outputs for the I/V STD?
I have just realised that shipping is much cheaper if I just get the ESS controller as it is under 200g.
I shall wait and see how much the LifePo4 minis come in at I think.
Rather than the Linearpi.
Either way, I think I will stick with, as you say, just the single power to the DAC for now and play with opamps.
I can’t imagine the minis being cheap enough for me to justify right now
Thanks again.
Hi,
I will ask here aswel.
I have Amanero USB interface, BridgePi and FifoPi Q3 Ultimate. I power it up with 5V to J3 and 3.3V to J5.
FifoPi powers up and Power LED is ON (green led) and EMPTY led is ON (red). Nothing else.
My PC recognizes the Amanero interface.
Does Amanero needs to be in Slave mode? Maybe connect uFL MCLK from FifoPi to BridgePi?
Can't figure it out, for now.
Thanks in advance
I will ask here aswel.
I have Amanero USB interface, BridgePi and FifoPi Q3 Ultimate. I power it up with 5V to J3 and 3.3V to J5.
FifoPi powers up and Power LED is ON (green led) and EMPTY led is ON (red). Nothing else.
My PC recognizes the Amanero interface.
Does Amanero needs to be in Slave mode? Maybe connect uFL MCLK from FifoPi to BridgePi?
Can't figure it out, for now.
Thanks in advance
@Grarea,
Yes on needing both 13.5V (that's what is on the LiFePO4 board) outputs to power the I/V Std. I assume you have downloaded and reviewed the manual for this board, if not, please do. What is described as a "dual rail (+-) power supply" in point 2 of the Quick Start Guide section is 2 supplies of roughly 12V, one with its + side connected to the + terminal and - side connected to the ground terminal and the other with its - side connected to the - terminal and + side connected to the ground terminal, so there is a connection from each supply to the ground terminal. These are often indicated as +- supplies, as in +-13.5V. Using a DVM to read the voltages, with one lead connected to ground, the connection to the + side will read +13.5V and the connection to the - side will read -13.5V.
This is common for analog circuits where you want to center the circuit's functioning around ground and swing the signal both positive and negative while keeping the output centered at or near ground. In the case of this circuit with the recommended opamps, this means no output coupling capacitor is needed.
While Ian recommends 12V for the included opamps, the +-13.5V of the 2 sets of 4 LiFePO4 cells in series on his board will work just fine. Max voltage on that device (search for NJM2114D datasheet if you are curious) is +-22V, so +-13.5V is well within its range.
Hoping this clears that up.
Best. AND let us know how it goes.
Greg in Mississippi
Yes on needing both 13.5V (that's what is on the LiFePO4 board) outputs to power the I/V Std. I assume you have downloaded and reviewed the manual for this board, if not, please do. What is described as a "dual rail (+-) power supply" in point 2 of the Quick Start Guide section is 2 supplies of roughly 12V, one with its + side connected to the + terminal and - side connected to the ground terminal and the other with its - side connected to the - terminal and + side connected to the ground terminal, so there is a connection from each supply to the ground terminal. These are often indicated as +- supplies, as in +-13.5V. Using a DVM to read the voltages, with one lead connected to ground, the connection to the + side will read +13.5V and the connection to the - side will read -13.5V.
This is common for analog circuits where you want to center the circuit's functioning around ground and swing the signal both positive and negative while keeping the output centered at or near ground. In the case of this circuit with the recommended opamps, this means no output coupling capacitor is needed.
While Ian recommends 12V for the included opamps, the +-13.5V of the 2 sets of 4 LiFePO4 cells in series on his board will work just fine. Max voltage on that device (search for NJM2114D datasheet if you are curious) is +-22V, so +-13.5V is well within its range.
Hoping this clears that up.
Best. AND let us know how it goes.
Greg in Mississippi
Thanks again Greg.
Yes, I had read it, but didn't understand the words.
I hadn't studied it yet as I am not in the position to use it.
I really appreciate you taking the time to explain it thoroughly as well.
I now have a plan of action.
First step is to wait and see how much the LiFePo4 minis are.
I suspect I will probably just get the ESS for now.
I am looking forward to it.
I am surprised that I can tell the difference every time I make an improvement.
I think next stage is amp.
Yes, I had read it, but didn't understand the words.
I hadn't studied it yet as I am not in the position to use it.
I really appreciate you taking the time to explain it thoroughly as well.
I now have a plan of action.
First step is to wait and see how much the LiFePo4 minis are.
I suspect I will probably just get the ESS for now.
I am looking forward to it.
I am surprised that I can tell the difference every time I make an improvement.
I think next stage is amp.
Thread resurrection now hopefully people have some new goodies!
Got my 2 battery psu rigged up and working. Both putting out perfect voltages. Nice things these. Will be powering Fifo clean with the 3v3 and my Andrea Mori entry level clock with the 6v6. Should be good.
Got my 2 battery psu rigged up and working. Both putting out perfect voltages. Nice things these. Will be powering Fifo clean with the 3v3 and my Andrea Mori entry level clock with the 6v6. Should be good.
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