IanCanada's Latest RPi GB Goodies Impressions... and your tweaks, mods and hints...

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I scored a lot sale of Cooper Bussman Eaton super caps...0.22f 5v low esr. Obviously just into the realms of 'super '....a long way off the 300farad caps some of you guys are on!

So the Ebay 3 rail lt1963 has no worries charging these caps. I added heatsinks to the ldos but all is cool. Rectifier diodes also cool. Also put them on the l adaptor rails for the fifo and Pi and they dont blink either.
Maybe I worry unduly over my 0.22f 'supercaps'.....I may try parallelling them up to 1f or so and see.

While it was apart I did the ldo bypass on the fifo and so now feed that 3v3 from a sole L adapter doing nothing else.

I seem to have a channel down isn't relates to the dac stack so that is my next job.
 
Hi,

I would like to ask some question about option to power FiFoPi.

I read in the document of FIFOPI is that we can bypass the internal LDO in the FIFOPi when feeding 3.3V to J5. So I have some question:
1. What is the internal LDO of FiFoPi, which power the FPGA and the clock oscillator? Are they LT3045?
2. I don't have a LiFePO4/Ultracaps PSU yet, can I feed 3.3V from Salas ReflektorD PSU to the FIFOPi?

Thanks
 
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Not sure it is any use when you think about it looking at the pictures.
We dont generally have an Rpi and a dac. We have fifo/isolator/ recieverpi/dac/ output stage.

This pcb only saves is one 'layer' but we cant stack on top...unless we re orientated the gpio header and then go up...but then we haven't really gained anything.?
 
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I got the recieverpi working last night. Initially it wasnt working....no blue light.....and I soon realised the optical out from the TV is goosed....despite a red light from the cable.
Tried it from the Sky Q box and away we go. Just remember to alter the output to 'normal' otherwise the Dolby signal makes all kinds of noises!
Only thing is the Sky box seems to put out a signal from the optical port even when in standby so the receiver stays locked and I cant use the fifo feed. Will need to implement a switch on the final build.

It seemed to be sounding harsh last night. Sibilant. Cymbal splashes , 'esssses' and 'tsch' sounds from speech was quite nasty. Maybe these supercaps I added arent all that good. I might try some film or oscon bypasses across them.
 
I got the recieverpi working last night. Initially it wasnt working....no blue light.....and I soon realised the optical out from the TV is goosed....despite a red light from the cable.
Tried it from the Sky Q box and away we go. Just remember to alter the output to 'normal' otherwise the Dolby signal makes all kinds of noises!
Only thing is the Sky box seems to put out a signal from the optical port even when in standby so the receiver stays locked and I cant use the fifo feed. Will need to implement a switch on the final build.

It seemed to be sounding harsh last night. Sibilant. Cymbal splashes , 'esssses' and 'tsch' sounds from speech was quite nasty. Maybe these supercaps I added arent all that good. I might try some film or oscon bypasses across them.

Maybe give the caps a chance to break in and was that only from the skybox?
 
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Does anyone know about a Pi GPIO extender? I would like to lower my DAC stack and make two stack, but I need it to be very stable.

Thanks
Do

I need to lower mine too. I love the "LEGO"-design of Ian's products, but one would have to be very innovative to build a nice case, especially for those who also use the big flat LiFe-supply. Not really very proportionate.

I believe the stack may be 'broken' without significant penalty using GPIO-extenders, ribbon cables or adaptor PCBs.

For a complete stack (RPi/ReceiverPi/FIFO/DAChat/IV) the obvious places to do this is between ReceiverPi and FIFO as well as between the DAChat and the I/V stage. There is good reason to think this may even be beneficial moving the dirty input side (RPi and ReceiverPi) away from the cleaning machine (Isolator/FIFO) and decoder (DAChat). Moving the IV-stage away from the digital circuitry of the FIFO and DAC can also only be beneficial if done well.

Just my2c
 
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Maybe give the caps a chance to break in and was that only from the skybox?
Just from the Sky box yes Seb. Caos have maybe up of 100 hours powered. Maybe 3 hours playing music.

The optical may be encrypted for Dolby or something. Might be a way to turn that off deep down in one of the TV's menus.

So I dragged the tv out and sussed the port out. Now feeding Reciever from the TV. The dac hat toggles nicely now automatically when I turn on the tv. Winner.

Will see what the SQ is like now
. I have a Google chromecast audio that I wish to use as a Pi less source into the receiver, along with the tv, so I have 2 optical input requirements. Well my good old Cambridge Audio Dacmagic has 2 inputs and also a straight thru pass output...so I can use this dac as an optical switch. Result.

My NDK clocks came this morning....ess emm all......small.
 
Has anyone with a Fifo Pi tried using it in conjunction with an Isolator Pi? I had assumed the Isolator board would be superfluous to requirements with the latest Fifo Pi board, but in my system it makes a significant positive difference. My source is a Pi powered by a DIYINHK power supply. I use a Pulsar clock on my Fifo Pi. Without the isolator, there is a hardness to the sound that goes away with the isolator board (powered by a Reflektor D PSU).

This makes me think I need to try one of the mezzanine boards from LDOVR to power my Pi.
 
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So using the isolator and powering that with 5v for the Pi.? Does the Fifo just have the power for the clocks connected then?

I run a Pi3b but have acquired a 2 to try to remove the onboard dc converter and then feed it 1v8, 3v3 and 5v separately....as per mezzanine. Apparently it makes for good SQ boost
 
So using the isolator and powering that with 5v for the Pi.? Does the Fifo just have the power for the clocks connected then?

Hi Jim. run a Pi3b but have acquired a 2 to try to remove the onboard dc converter and then feed it 1v8, 3v3 and 5v separately....as per mezzanine. Apparently it makes for good SQ boost

The Pi is powered by a 5v DIYINHK, the isolator has a separate reflektor D supply and yes, just a 3.3v battery powering the FifoPi. I’m in two minds between mezzanine and the usb sig board (but I will never use usb functions so seems an expensive option). James
 
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@Brumjam,

Interesting, to say the least!

So your power scheme is as follows:

- 5V DIYINHK supply powering the RPi & Isolator board input side.

- ?V (assume 5V) Reflektor D supply powering the Isolator board output side and FiFoPi isolators input side.

- 3.3V battery powering the FiFoPi isolator output side, FIFO circuits, and clocks.

Correct?

Again, interesting. I'll have to try this. I am running a USBBridge Sig under my Ian GB stack, so may not be as useful. We'll see.

I did find modifying a couple of RPi 2B's with the LDOVR Mezzanine board VERY worthwhile, though a challenging DIY project. See my recent comments on that and the Mezzanine-modified RPis versus USBBridge Sig in post 823 of this thread:

Develop ultra capacitor power supply and LiFePO4 battery power supply

Greg in Mississippi

P.S. Also note the discussion in the last several posts on this thread that discuss why you can modify an RPi 3B with LDOVR's Mezzanine board, but not the 3B+... and of course, not the RPi 4 either:

Mezzanine Power board for Raspberry Pi
 
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