Look.
1.
If a clock messup doesn't have an impact on measurements, I'll propose you for the next Noble prize.
2.
It was you who was telling my fellow members to disregard my Voodoo post.
It is well known that you, as commercial inmate, have a problem with my critical
comments related to your products.
But it's not that I havn't been promoting your products as well. I was one of the first
persons who were very positive - in public - about Shanti
3.
If you think you can make me look stupid, and in the very same post you contradict and ridicule yourself,
you'll get your medicine back.
4.
I'm more than happy to have a chat with the moderators. This forum is not and shouldn't be your free-of-charge marketing
platform where you can push non commercial long time members around. Since 2005 I was never called out by the mods.
I'm critical yes. But I do not consider myself unfair. And not to forget. I can be quite constructive as well.
A good day.
1.
If a clock messup doesn't have an impact on measurements, I'll propose you for the next Noble prize.
2.
It was you who was telling my fellow members to disregard my Voodoo post.
It is well known that you, as commercial inmate, have a problem with my critical
comments related to your products.
But it's not that I havn't been promoting your products as well. I was one of the first
persons who were very positive - in public - about Shanti
3.
If you think you can make me look stupid, and in the very same post you contradict and ridicule yourself,
you'll get your medicine back.
4.
I'm more than happy to have a chat with the moderators. This forum is not and shouldn't be your free-of-charge marketing
platform where you can push non commercial long time members around. Since 2005 I was never called out by the mods.
I'm critical yes. But I do not consider myself unfair. And not to forget. I can be quite constructive as well.
A good day.
Last edited:
Finally, I measured my Katana with RMAA. It is very nice in general, but I found two small things that I'm going to try to improve. I do see some 60Hz pickup probably related to magnetic flux comming from my PSU toroids. Need to isolate all cards, output wires and RCAs with permalloy barrier. Another one is related to some small drop at high frequency end. Definitely, it is not detectable by ear (it is less than -1dB), but OCD is scratching 
Thanks Markw4 for this feedback. I have not seen the specs on the Revolution, but do you know if it will have RCA outputs?
Hi @greg Stewart and LPs specialists,
In the next few months I will have a USB sig + Rev dac combo!
I have one Salas L-adapter 5v 3a and 2 ultrabibs 5v 1,5a lps.
I am planing to power the usb sig with one L-adapter+ ubib and the rev dac with ubib.
I have also some Lt1083 lps I bought from audiophonics I can use too. They are a little bit stronger than ubib, but with lower quality...
I am just worried if the ubib would not be powerful enough for the rev dac.
I know that L-adapter is strong and very good quality, but Ubib at 1,5a....
Any help is welcome!
Thanks
Antônio
In the next few months I will have a USB sig + Rev dac combo!
I have one Salas L-adapter 5v 3a and 2 ultrabibs 5v 1,5a lps.
I am planing to power the usb sig with one L-adapter+ ubib and the rev dac with ubib.
I have also some Lt1083 lps I bought from audiophonics I can use too. They are a little bit stronger than ubib, but with lower quality...
I am just worried if the ubib would not be powerful enough for the rev dac.
I know that L-adapter is strong and very good quality, but Ubib at 1,5a....
Any help is welcome!
Thanks
Antônio
@Greg Stewart, Thank You for making me wait on Allo Shanti to replace 2 of my 3 5V iPower. This PSU upgrade, combined with the addition of an Usbridge Signature, brought my Katana SQ to a new level!
Here's my new current setup:
- Isolator removed
- OpAmp SQ board => HD Placid BP (bypassed MC board) + Film Caps bank suggested by @Markw4
- USBridge Sig => Shanti 3A (bypassed usb connector)
- DAC => Shanti 1A (bypassed connector)
- MC => iPower 3A (bypassed usb connector) + ifi groundhog spade on barrel connector plugged into ifi AC iPurifier
Btw, thank you for making me discover both dynamat and Herbie's audio lab products!
So here is what I'm now wondering about:
- What are the hook-up wires connectors that you use everywhere in your setups?
- Do you think I could still get a great SQ gain by upgrading my last iPower (or swapping it's current position on MC board)? If so, any recommendation? Another Shanti? Or something else for USBridge Sig and use Shanti for DAC and MC boards like I think you suggested already
- Did you finally have the chance to try the balanced output?
@Jonathan P,
Great to hear from you! AND I'm glad to hear you got good gains from those upgrades. I still have to try a film-cap bank... one of the last few things on my list for my Katana setup.
AND sorry for the slow response... a bit of a crazy week!
On your questions...
First, my main hookup wire is Audience 18 gauge Auric Wire. Likely not the best out there, but also not crazy expensive AND easier to work with then the somewhat better Cardas hook-up wire (though the latter is slightly less expensive currently at Parts Connexion). I generally tightly twist or braid (3-cross or 4-cross) to stabilize the wire physically.
I also make some power leads using Canare 4S6 or 4S8 4-cross microphone/speaker wire when I'm being lazy. I have only used this cable with the shield and outer covering removed so far. I get that from Markertek.
On SQ gains by upgrading your iPower, yes, the power supply for the MC board is important. I had posted a comment earlier in this thread by my 'audio friend' where he used a better supply for that feed and found it a good upgrade.
Also, for the last six months or so I've been using supplies with a pair of extremely large (325F-3000F!) Ultracaps at the output that are float-charged to the desired voltage. I pre-charge these using a current-limited regulator that I plug into the UC pair assembly, the LT3042 board that you can get from Ian Canada. Back in early December, on a whim I tried replacing those regulator boards with LT3045 regulator boards from LDOVR.com. That was a very nice upgrade over the LT3042 boards. Recently I had a problem with the plug-in connection for the regulator on the MC board supply and went back to the LT0342 board. I could very quickly hear it was a step backwards, so I resolved that connection issue ASAP and got the LT3045 board back in quickly.
On the iFi versus other supplies, it does not have to be a fancy, expensive supply to better the iFi. Here in the US, we have some very inexpensive ($11-$15 USD) wall-warts available from Jameco that are 1A linear supplies with cheap linear regulators. I have upgraded these with good diodes, better and larger pre-regulator and post-regulator filter caps, a transformer ringing snubber, and a film AC filter cap, with a parts cost about 2x the cost of the raw wall wart. I find these good basic 4V-18V supplies (they come in 5V and 12V varieties, but use an adjustable regulator and have a fairly high raw DC voltage, so you can adjust them up and down a few volts with just a single resistor change). Earlier upthread I posted some impressions of my Katana setup powered by these (good, not great) and a friend who has some of these posted an impression of it being an upgrade to the iFi 5V in his setup in post #119.
So yes, look for an alternative. While another Shanti would be great, that is likely overkill... you should be able to find a good linear supply for about the same $$$ as the iFi, though it may require a bit of DIY.
Finally, no, I haven't tried the balanced output yet. I really need to do that, while I suspect I may want to adjust the output filtering on those outputs, I also expect it will be a good upgrade.
So besides the output power supply film cap bank and the balanced outputs, the other thing I want to try with my Katana is powering the output stages from the +-13.2V available from one of Ian Canada's LiFePO4 supply. One of the mods I did (at the suggestion of my 'audio friend') was bypassing the +-14V low-dropout regulators between the +-15V input on the MC board and the output stage board. That was another nice upgrade, though a somewhat expert-level modification. BUT not having those LDOs inline means that a direct feed of +-13.2V from Ian's supply will work ok and should be a good upgrade over my AC-connected / Sparkos regulated +-15V supply based on what I heard on my Ian group-buy setup.
I hope this all helps!
Greg in Mississippi
P.S. I am VERY happy with the sonics I'm getting from my Katana setup. Using a very recent model of 325F UCs from Maxwell in the UC pairs on the DAC and MC boards 5V supplies were a larger upgrade than I reported with the earlier model of UCs. I was surprised by how well they work, even feeding 5V and going through the on-board LDOs.
AND I recently moved up to a 3000F UC pair on the 5V to the USBBridge Signature with very good results AND a good upgrade from the 325F pair I used there before.
While these supplies take a lot of care to use safely and are really only for an expert DIY'er, they are a significant step above everything else I've used.
Great to hear from you! AND I'm glad to hear you got good gains from those upgrades. I still have to try a film-cap bank... one of the last few things on my list for my Katana setup.
AND sorry for the slow response... a bit of a crazy week!
On your questions...
First, my main hookup wire is Audience 18 gauge Auric Wire. Likely not the best out there, but also not crazy expensive AND easier to work with then the somewhat better Cardas hook-up wire (though the latter is slightly less expensive currently at Parts Connexion). I generally tightly twist or braid (3-cross or 4-cross) to stabilize the wire physically.
I also make some power leads using Canare 4S6 or 4S8 4-cross microphone/speaker wire when I'm being lazy. I have only used this cable with the shield and outer covering removed so far. I get that from Markertek.
On SQ gains by upgrading your iPower, yes, the power supply for the MC board is important. I had posted a comment earlier in this thread by my 'audio friend' where he used a better supply for that feed and found it a good upgrade.
Also, for the last six months or so I've been using supplies with a pair of extremely large (325F-3000F!) Ultracaps at the output that are float-charged to the desired voltage. I pre-charge these using a current-limited regulator that I plug into the UC pair assembly, the LT3042 board that you can get from Ian Canada. Back in early December, on a whim I tried replacing those regulator boards with LT3045 regulator boards from LDOVR.com. That was a very nice upgrade over the LT3042 boards. Recently I had a problem with the plug-in connection for the regulator on the MC board supply and went back to the LT0342 board. I could very quickly hear it was a step backwards, so I resolved that connection issue ASAP and got the LT3045 board back in quickly.
On the iFi versus other supplies, it does not have to be a fancy, expensive supply to better the iFi. Here in the US, we have some very inexpensive ($11-$15 USD) wall-warts available from Jameco that are 1A linear supplies with cheap linear regulators. I have upgraded these with good diodes, better and larger pre-regulator and post-regulator filter caps, a transformer ringing snubber, and a film AC filter cap, with a parts cost about 2x the cost of the raw wall wart. I find these good basic 4V-18V supplies (they come in 5V and 12V varieties, but use an adjustable regulator and have a fairly high raw DC voltage, so you can adjust them up and down a few volts with just a single resistor change). Earlier upthread I posted some impressions of my Katana setup powered by these (good, not great) and a friend who has some of these posted an impression of it being an upgrade to the iFi 5V in his setup in post #119.
So yes, look for an alternative. While another Shanti would be great, that is likely overkill... you should be able to find a good linear supply for about the same $$$ as the iFi, though it may require a bit of DIY.
Finally, no, I haven't tried the balanced output yet. I really need to do that, while I suspect I may want to adjust the output filtering on those outputs, I also expect it will be a good upgrade.
So besides the output power supply film cap bank and the balanced outputs, the other thing I want to try with my Katana is powering the output stages from the +-13.2V available from one of Ian Canada's LiFePO4 supply. One of the mods I did (at the suggestion of my 'audio friend') was bypassing the +-14V low-dropout regulators between the +-15V input on the MC board and the output stage board. That was another nice upgrade, though a somewhat expert-level modification. BUT not having those LDOs inline means that a direct feed of +-13.2V from Ian's supply will work ok and should be a good upgrade over my AC-connected / Sparkos regulated +-15V supply based on what I heard on my Ian group-buy setup.
I hope this all helps!
Greg in Mississippi
P.S. I am VERY happy with the sonics I'm getting from my Katana setup. Using a very recent model of 325F UCs from Maxwell in the UC pairs on the DAC and MC boards 5V supplies were a larger upgrade than I reported with the earlier model of UCs. I was surprised by how well they work, even feeding 5V and going through the on-board LDOs.
AND I recently moved up to a 3000F UC pair on the 5V to the USBBridge Signature with very good results AND a good upgrade from the 325F pair I used there before.
While these supplies take a lot of care to use safely and are really only for an expert DIY'er, they are a significant step above everything else I've used.
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Hi I was wondering the same thing, why is KATANA not available on their website. I noticed that you posted this already last year and nothing has changed.
I wrote to them but received no reply.
Anybody has any idea and suggestion where to actually buy ?
Hi I am planning to build my own PSU for the DAC (connected to Pi3B). Possibly using the LT3042 on the positive rail to the OpAmps. My Question is this: I am planning to use batteries to feed into the linear power supply and when the batteries are getting low to switch to a second pack while charging the first ones. When I look at the specs of the LT3042 with 0.8uV ripple I wonder if the solution with the batteries with all its controls and charging technologies is actually providing any enhancement. I would achieve decoupling for the Mains but does that really reduce noise to the DACs when I use such a good control chip (LT3042) ?
The Shanti claims noise of 0.08 uV and costs less than you would pay for parts. Super caps on the output and very low impedance.
Shanti Dual Linear Ultra Low Noise PSU
Shanti Dual Linear Ultra Low Noise PSU
Allo Revolution power requirements
Hello Greg,
I am in the midst of designing my streamer and initially thought of using the Katana board. However since the Revolution seems to be around the corner I decided to wait and focus on the power supply development for the time being.
Could you share with us what power requirements the Revolution board will likely need (voltages, and currents)?
Could you share with us when the board will be likely available ?
Highly appreciated, Bjoern
Hello Greg,
I am in the midst of designing my streamer and initially thought of using the Katana board. However since the Revolution seems to be around the corner I decided to wait and focus on the power supply development for the time being.
Could you share with us what power requirements the Revolution board will likely need (voltages, and currents)?
Could you share with us when the board will be likely available ?
Highly appreciated, Bjoern
Shanti Dual LPS 5V/3A , 5V/1.5A This is also the Revolution thread.
Allo claim their Shanti LPSU is only a shade better than their SMPS. The Shanti is very good, I have one.
IIRC Allo have said the only power for the Revolution DAC is 1x 5V supply.
As I see it Allo have designed it as a plug and play USB DAC rather than aiming at the DIY sector.
See link
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/ven...i-dual-lps-5v-3a-5v-1-5a-128.html#post6117110
cdsgames is in the know. I just hope that in the future Allo will offer the kit of materials for the new Rev for Wifi, Volumio ... well exactly like Katana
so, i think i’m just now catching up ..
the next Allo premium streaming arrangement would be ..?
USBridge Signature Player <> Shanti <> Revolution DAC
