Set+ F4
In one of the 6moon articles reviewing the F4 the fellow describes his adventures with hooking a 45SET output up to the F4. He then goes into great details about the splendors and wonders of the arrangement. This sounds quite intreguing to me.
Mr wire wiggler you have an opportunity to try a pretty cool experiment.
Check out the review in 6 moons and the discussion in the F4 manual. There may be something quite interesting there for you to try. How about a report back on the out come.
The guy at 6moons got a little over the top creamy and gooy in his descriptions for me. His over use of adverbs and adjectives is quite distracting. But I take he liked what he heard.
Anyone else tried this yet with other flea power SET
In one of the 6moon articles reviewing the F4 the fellow describes his adventures with hooking a 45SET output up to the F4. He then goes into great details about the splendors and wonders of the arrangement. This sounds quite intreguing to me.
Mr wire wiggler you have an opportunity to try a pretty cool experiment.
Check out the review in 6 moons and the discussion in the F4 manual. There may be something quite interesting there for you to try. How about a report back on the out come.
The guy at 6moons got a little over the top creamy and gooy in his descriptions for me. His over use of adverbs and adjectives is quite distracting. But I take he liked what he heard.
Anyone else tried this yet with other flea power SET
I'll be trying the F4 with a tube differential gain-stage soon: Choky is coming up with a layout for us to experiment with.
It'll be interesting to see how it sounds compared to Nelson's wonderful sounding JfetBOZ--which I've morphed into a balanced, CCSed, choke loaded affair.
Talk about sweet and creamy!
It'll be interesting to see how it sounds compared to Nelson's wonderful sounding JfetBOZ--which I've morphed into a balanced, CCSed, choke loaded affair.
Talk about sweet and creamy!F4 with SET
I may some day , my sets use AC on the heaters and have a bit of a hum. The F4 is so quite it will be hard to do. I just built a Twisted pair Balsie Balanced to single end converter and have been enjoying the KT88 amp on my Xbosoz preamp. It is a significant improvement over the tube pre I was using. Need to make new shelving so I can play with all my toys. In the mean time I am building Pumpkin for mate with F4, I hope this combo will satisfy me enough so I can focus on other projects. I just ordered Promitheus's Pearl MC pre and will need to upgrade Analog side.
I may some day , my sets use AC on the heaters and have a bit of a hum. The F4 is so quite it will be hard to do. I just built a Twisted pair Balsie Balanced to single end converter and have been enjoying the KT88 amp on my Xbosoz preamp. It is a significant improvement over the tube pre I was using. Need to make new shelving so I can play with all my toys. In the mean time I am building Pumpkin for mate with F4, I hope this combo will satisfy me enough so I can focus on other projects. I just ordered Promitheus's Pearl MC pre and will need to upgrade Analog side.
Re: Extra rail caps for F4
Hello,
I am back to the original NP schematics without any extra rail caps at the input. I found the sound was to sandy, grainy... so I pulled out additional caps on input. Sound is more clean now, acoustic scene still perfect, listening is very nice, but I have some troubles with loud pieces of many instruments and voices.
I will try to use better quality C1/C2 caps, like Nichicon bipolars.
What do you recommend regarding C3/C4, Nichicon ?
andrzej
Hello,
I am back to the original NP schematics without any extra rail caps at the input. I found the sound was to sandy, grainy... so I pulled out additional caps on input. Sound is more clean now, acoustic scene still perfect, listening is very nice, but I have some troubles with loud pieces of many instruments and voices.
I will try to use better quality C1/C2 caps, like Nichicon bipolars.
What do you recommend regarding C3/C4, Nichicon ?
andrzej
Andrzej Sochon said:
Sandy and grainy? It's not for me . . .
I have believed that C3 and C4 is to make the output and input
signals the same (not exactly tho), having limited current flow.
(so, flat frequency response down to the rockbottom bass region)
And,
I have believed that there are also very limited current flow through
C1 and C2.
Anyhow, better quality of C1-4 might be helpful . . .
By the way, when you had the additional input caps, no bass
sound change? Just wondering . . .
Babowana said:
...when you had the additional input caps, no bass
sound change? Just wondering . . .
Hi,
I was not able to check having no preamp, I did not observe any change in bass.
By the way, look what I use to measure temperature: simple car-thermometers I bought at supermarket, price approx. 3 Euro each.
Precision is not laboratory perfect but is quite enough! Important is that supply battery is easy to buy everywhere: 1,5V AA size.
I hope you can see 48C.
Best Regards,
a.
Attachments
steenoe said:Looks like a manly pair of amps to me, allright
At 48C you can raise the bias a bit, if you wanted to
Yes, I want to raise the bias.
At the moment I got 48C without top cover.
If you compare my thermometer-photo with my awatar, maybe you will see there are no woodden insulators now. Now all walls are thermally
united/connected. With wooden insulators Mosfets temperature was as high as 68C. Now its much better.
carpenter said:[BGood catch, and something for us to learn. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Carpenter,
I wish I did not measure temperature of side walls before, as my beloved SOZ was inside. Big aluminum resistors ware mounted here, and after half an hour side walls ware so high that I could not touch them, it was 80C or more. Mosfets ware mounted on the front walls so wood insulation was necessary.
Where are amusing critters...aha, ...
wow!
for novices
Nothing special, for novices maybe...
Last weekend I tried to clear cables and other things inside my f4. I exchanged C1/C2/C3/C4 to Nichicon, I also exchanged internal signal cables. Hearing tests – oops...there is no left side. Brumm test... one of boards in the left monoblock does not respond. The reason was simple: black “additional insulation” of signal cable was touching R1. It slightly conducts...See attached picture, for better view copper shielding is removed.
Nothing special, for novices maybe...
Last weekend I tried to clear cables and other things inside my f4. I exchanged C1/C2/C3/C4 to Nichicon, I also exchanged internal signal cables. Hearing tests – oops...there is no left side. Brumm test... one of boards in the left monoblock does not respond. The reason was simple: black “additional insulation” of signal cable was touching R1. It slightly conducts...See attached picture, for better view copper shielding is removed.
