I used the 2515, it works fine. Keep in mind that you will need to EQ whatever you use and that some will require less than others.
Member
Joined 2009
Paid Member
My experience with these AN drivers is also positive, used in an open back box it is superb! After years of experimenting with commercial speakers, Fostex, Cletron, Mark Audio the AN 15” Super has buried them all. After a decade I’ve yet to find anything better but of course, in this hobby I keep looking and will try Lowther next but then it will need to be a 2 way at least. For single driver, the AN 15” Super is still King and potentially a destination solution. Yes, they are worth the $.
But I read it maybe discontinued, which if true is really sad. Lii audio maybe the nearest equivalent, maybe even from the same factory as the AN. My guess is that the AN 12” Super Ferrite would be a close runner up to the 15” Super Ferrite but not any of their other drivers, they are not a close family.
Last edited:
Thanks for the positive response. I plan to use a MiniDSP to get the experiment with set up and then migrate to one of the DIY Audio store crossovers when I'm satisfied with the sound. Aim is to achieve crossover with the full-range unit at about 150Hz.
Here's the info on my ACN/LX Mini set up for Papa's SLOB.
I've attached two documents- (no idea why they are upside down- saved correctly.)
1. The ACN crossover schematic with updated values hand written.
2. The file of the crossover slope with updated values on the right, but it is not a complete schematic. Use the complete schematic with the hand written values.
Schematic changes from original values-
For the low pass-
R1/3 to 10K ohm
R25/26 to 22K ohm
R27/29 to 22K ohm
For the High Pass-
C4/8 to 47NF
C3/7 to 47NF
R2/4 to 22K ohm
R6/8 to 22K ohm
C15/19 removed/left open
C16/20 to 15NF
R23/24 to 4.7K ohm
R28/30 to 8.2K ohm
R32/34 to 1K ohm
I've attached two documents- (no idea why they are upside down- saved correctly.)
1. The ACN crossover schematic with updated values hand written.
2. The file of the crossover slope with updated values on the right, but it is not a complete schematic. Use the complete schematic with the hand written values.
Schematic changes from original values-
For the low pass-
R1/3 to 10K ohm
R25/26 to 22K ohm
R27/29 to 22K ohm
For the High Pass-
C4/8 to 47NF
C3/7 to 47NF
R2/4 to 22K ohm
R6/8 to 22K ohm
C15/19 removed/left open
C16/20 to 15NF
R23/24 to 4.7K ohm
R28/30 to 8.2K ohm
R32/34 to 1K ohm
Attachments
Thanks wg45, that's really useful.
I see you are using a Lii 8in full ranger but can you remind of the bass units your using?
I'm working on a Pass SLOB project myself and plan to eventually use the ACN/LX mini crossover for the bass element but I plan to use no crossover for the full rangers, instead achieving the roll-off by bandwidth limiting the amplifier that will drive them.
Superb! Could you take a photo of your actual SLOBS?
Sure, here's a few photos. I added casters on the bottom of the speakers. I liked how my Zu Audio Druids had the FR driver at seated ear level. My thinking is that adding the casters raises the height slightly and makes them easier to move around.
If I was to make another baffle, I might make it slightly taller.
Attachments
Superb! Could you take a photo of your actual SLOBS?
The 15" woofers are Augie 15's. I think Papa recommended the Eminence Defimax. Any good 15" woofer will work.
The more critical driver is the FR.
I have a pair of Aurel Bryan full-range units (and the matching tweeters if they prove to be benficial).
I'm also wondering about 15ohm Lowther PM6C units as it would give me the option of using my flea-power 6C33C SE-OTL amp - maybe have interchangeable baffles?
Last edited:
I'm sorry, I don't know any of those drivers. I can't comment on them.
Papa did say I was going to need multiple baffles and he's right. One change I would make would be to have the front baffle be removable or replaceable, without too much effort.
I've used two different 8" FR drivers and they are slightly different footprints but I made it work. They next one may not fit or I might want to use a 10". Having an easy way to change the front baffle would be smart.
I think your preamp and amp are important parts, along with speakers and speaker positioning. That said, I ran two subs with my Zu Druids to get the bass I wanted.
With the SLOB #2, my subs are up for sale.
Thanks, just what I wanted to hear. Do the relative sensitivities of the two drivers matter? I assume the trend would be the full range driver will have a higher efficiency than the 15 inch bass. Is there some efficiency parameters
between the two drivers that should be followed?
Seems like a really sweet design worth trying. Been wanting to try open baffle,
I was hoping it had some low end grunt so am even more interested.
Whoops, just noticed this is actively crossed over! That explains the matching levels. Nevermind!
Russellc
Last edited: