F5 V3

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Nelson Pass

Nelson Pass

The one and only
Joined 2001
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dBel84 said:
please do share.
Click to expand...

I had 100 of these made to go with the Moths and the Eminence 15"
Definimax and B5 crossover. Worked out quite well.

I do still have some available...

(Photo here has a Lowther....)
 

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flamethrower1

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Joined 2015
My plan is to drop the 120 input from the back of the IEC down under the mounting plate, under the PSU and then bring it up between the doughnut and PSU over to the terminal block.
Also, Antek has the cans available for the 400 series transformers, 47.00 bucks.
At this point, I am not apposed to putting another 60.00 bucks in it.
WWYD?
 

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Zen Mod

Zen Mod

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Joined 2003
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rotate the Donut so secondaries are ditto to pcb , shorten sec. wires that much so you can rotate Donut later for 30deg left or right , if needed

I usually don't need to chase humbucking position , if everything is done correctly

move primary connection block near front edge of base plate (left or right side of Donut), to keep those primary wires short as possible
 
F

flamethrower1

Member
Joined 2015
Well my Stahl soldering iron decided to fail on me and I wont be getting the replacement until tomorrow.
So my progress has stalled as well.
I did order a B1 to keep my mind busy though.
Also, after receiving my new Fluke probes, I realized I made a big nube mistake not holding the R7 and R8 resistors off from the boards.
I want to replace them and do it correctly this time.
Are these the correct resistors?
ERG-3SJ470 Panasonic | Mouser
 
M

McQuaide

Member
Joined 2011
flamethrower1 said:
Well my Stahl soldering iron decided to fail on me and I wont be getting the replacement until tomorrow.
So my progress has stalled as well.
I did order a B1 to keep my mind busy though.
Also, after receiving my new Fluke probes, I realized I made a big nube mistake not holding the R7 and R8 resistors off from the boards.
I want to replace them and do it correctly this time.
Are these the correct resistors?
ERG-3SJ470 Panasonic | Mouser
Click to expand...

Just get some mini-grabbers, no need to raise the resistors.
 
pfarrell

pfarrell

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thussfarrell.com
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flamethrower1 said:
With a 3U chassis, things are going to be tight as I see it.
For the cost and time of removing them and re-soldering them verses ordering new leads, resistors are cheaper.
Got to have a soldering iron anyway, USPS has it stuck in Oak Creek WI since Friday.
Oh well
Click to expand...

Regardless of your purist instincts (a compliment—takes one to know one)—I found it super helpful to run all the power wires (V+, GND, V-) either straight up off the boards and then towards the back of the case, or I've seen them run in from the back of the PCB, provided I suppose that you have enough room with your standoffs.

Just a thought. I got to redo 1/2 my F5 wiring trying to sort out hum/buzz—and when I redid the power wires across the top I didn't run them perpendicular to the PCB and out towards the middle of the chassis the second time. Made getting in there for biasing much easier.

Hakko soldering irons are the business... just sayin.
 
pfarrell

pfarrell

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Andersonix said:
Pfarrell: in the photo in your post #92, it appears there is a red and a black wire running close to your inrush CL60’s, maybe too close?
Click to expand...

The in, to the terminal block from the IEC?
It’s per 6L6 spec.

Also that was my old needed to be ZenModed super loud wiring layout.

The new layout is almost blackness in comparison. Block is at the front, power under the chassis and more.
 
pfarrell

pfarrell

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flamethrower1 said:
Oh, the ground wire for the Antek.
I have read somewhere in the past to keep this"short as possible".
Will it be ok to drop this back with the AC in and back to star ground?
Will have to splice it and lengthen it to do so if I have my star ground toward the back of the PSU.
Click to expand...

From the Aleph thread-->post #2698:
Aleph J illustrated build guide

But the Boyz like to keep them short and grounded as close as possible.

I mounted my F5 transformer vertically. Aleph J transfo I mounted flat, and was able to rotate it "live" to attenuate the buzz in the speakers... cut it in half with optimal position... So leave some slack in the shielding wire when you cut it. ZM said up to 30 degrees in either direction.
 
rhthatcher

rhthatcher

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Joined 2018
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I think I get blue and yellow crimp terminals every time I’m at Home Depot. IIRC, Home Depot has the female bulk packs while Lowe’s has the male / female combo packs. Menard’s didn’t have what I wanted when i checked.

I once ordered a bulk pack on amazon but they were cheap junk. The metal was too thin, and it didn’t bite and hold on the wire. Plastic was garbage.
 
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