Just wondering if anybody could point me in a good DIY design that would pair with this amp?
The cabinets I can handle.
Budget for drivers 500 or so.
Room size is basically 13 ft wide 10 ft deep ( it is actually a loft on the second floor of my house).
Looking for clean, not loud.
Something with a little low end though.
Anyway, just sking.
Thanks. Greg
The cabinets I can handle.
Budget for drivers 500 or so.
Room size is basically 13 ft wide 10 ft deep ( it is actually a loft on the second floor of my house).
Looking for clean, not loud.
Something with a little low end though.
Anyway, just sking.
Thanks. Greg
Ok, that was a little vague.
I am going to be using this amp in a dedicated 2 channel listening room.
Want to build a folded horn full range design.
I personally like 8 inch drivers verses the smaller drivers.
Tang Band W8-1772 or maybe Scanspeak drivers?
Just wondering if anybody else has gone down this road and has some input?
I am going to be using this amp in a dedicated 2 channel listening room.
Want to build a folded horn full range design.
I personally like 8 inch drivers verses the smaller drivers.
Tang Band W8-1772 or maybe Scanspeak drivers?
Just wondering if anybody else has gone down this road and has some input?
Check out Mark Audio full rangers and the Pensil plans -
Frugal-phile | Box Library / Mark Audio
I have the 10p drivers and they sound really good and they are fairly sensitive. I used one of Planet10’s custom designs because I have a smallish room.
I think they sound great. I’ve built some other DIY speaker kits but they dont sound as nearly as good. Perhaps I just enjoy full rangers more or something.
Frugal-phile | Box Library / Mark Audio
I have the 10p drivers and they sound really good and they are fairly sensitive. I used one of Planet10’s custom designs because I have a smallish room.
I think they sound great. I’ve built some other DIY speaker kits but they dont sound as nearly as good. Perhaps I just enjoy full rangers more or something.
Progress so far.
Got one board quasi mounted.
The standoffs were ordered from Amazon as the DIY store had the kit back ordered.
Ordered two taps from MC, had to turn one into a bottoming tap and still had to file some of the threads off to get the shoulders to seat.
I used the shortest stand offs so the screws in the kit were a little long, that is why I used the nylon spacers on top of the boards.
Anyway, before I solder the Mosfets, do I put the Ktherms under them and have them secured?
Got one board quasi mounted.
The standoffs were ordered from Amazon as the DIY store had the kit back ordered.
Ordered two taps from MC, had to turn one into a bottoming tap and still had to file some of the threads off to get the shoulders to seat.
I used the shortest stand offs so the screws in the kit were a little long, that is why I used the nylon spacers on top of the boards.
Anyway, before I solder the Mosfets, do I put the Ktherms under them and have them secured?
Attachments
Get enough space between the Mosfet and the board otherwise they may get in contact with some other soldering.
The keratherm "only" has been reported creating problem, being too thin the mosfet get in contact with the heatsink. That's why I placed ceramic pads + keratherm, doing so I needed to elevate the PCB of, at least, the thickness of the ceramic pad.
The keratherm "only" has been reported creating problem, being too thin the mosfet get in contact with the heatsink. That's why I placed ceramic pads + keratherm, doing so I needed to elevate the PCB of, at least, the thickness of the ceramic pad.
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Keratherm alone is the generally recommended path , only problem when using keratherm is not to be too heavy handed and tear through the pad making contact with the heatsink below. Be sure to gently burr out the rim of the hole that you drill and tap. I use very fine sand paper to clean up the spot first too ( just in case there are small somethings sticking up )
I would recommend a fitting them to the heatsinks with keratherm in place prior to soldering - making sure your alignment is good before soldering.
with all that said - my M2X gave me major issues while sissy and aleph did not (from a heatsink shorting perspective. )
I would recommend a fitting them to the heatsinks with keratherm in place prior to soldering - making sure your alignment is good before soldering.
with all that said - my M2X gave me major issues while sissy and aleph did not (from a heatsink shorting perspective. )
If you can get your hands on a small torque wrench with inch/pound settings (or the equivalent metric scale) you can accurately set the torque. The max recommended for the mosfets is 10 in/lbs. I used 10 in/lbs on my V3 monoblocks and have had no issues. These are my daily driver amps most of the time for the last couple of years.
please do share , I am sure that your's were more thoughtfully constructed - this is a test bed constructed out of garden stakes and recycled kitchen cabinets. I later added a lineum driver on top too so that I could try out various configurations. When it is dialed in, decision is whether drive everything active using your active crossover or be happy with passive crossover and single Papa amp.
sorry for the temporary thread hijack
Thank you, I do have a small in/lb torque wrench I use for another hobby.
Debel84, no problem, thanks for sharing, cool stuff.
F5 BUILD
Got all of the holes drilled and tapped, that was a quite a process in its self.
Checked and double checked my 240's and 9240's many times.
The washers for the MOFSETS are a little bigger then I have seen in other builds, only ones I could source locally.
Got all of the holes drilled and tapped, that was a quite a process in its self.
Checked and double checked my 240's and 9240's many times.
The washers for the MOFSETS are a little bigger then I have seen in other builds, only ones I could source locally.
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An easy way to de-burr is to go over the hole lightly with a much larger diameter drill bit in the drill, doing a very shallow countersink - much easier than sanding.
Large washers are good. They distribute the clamping pressure over a larger area of the MOSFET, providing better contact for heat transfer to the heatsink.
6L6—I thought there was a little drama about the thermistors touching the washers vs the mosfet body? I've done so much reading, but if I recall, it was ZenMod that wasn't a fan of the touching-washer approach—and he had some specific reasons....Is that the ultra-purist approach? I've also read about some "flaming thermistor" experiences... Dunno if that's related.
When I DID NOT understand my 240s vs 9240s—and got to experience that funness—I redid it all and used a smaller washer second time around and had the thermistor contact the mosfet body...
What's the "official" explanation here, if there is one... (I'm looking at you next build).
THX!
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