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Old 19th August 2019, 04:14 PM   #21
brian92fs is offline brian92fs  United States
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Join Date: Jan 2017
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F5 V3
Quote:
Originally Posted by flamethrower1 View Post
Would help if I could do a search on this sight,I type in F5 or DIY PSU for a search and get no matches found
Words less than 4 letters are ignored. When I want to search for a term like this, I use Google and append DIYAudio. It seems to work well.
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Old 19th August 2019, 05:14 PM   #22
AudioSan is offline AudioSan  Norway
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhthatcher View Post
You're going to need higher voltage than 18 on your transformer. I'm going to be building F5 V3's for a friend soon when all of his parts arrive. I have the chassis, boards, transformers, and a few other odds and ends in my car that I picked up yesterday.

He ordered one Antek AN-6435 per monoblock. You could kick it up to 800VA or more, too. I'll test both on my quasimodo / oscilloscope to size the snubber resistors. Maybe I can knock that out this afternoon. My experience is that the snubber values are pretty consistent across the same mfr and model number. I'll post the values here when done.


You're going to need higher voltage rated caps in the PSU with the higher voltage rails. He's going with 22000uF 63V Digikey: 565-4899-ND



If you haven't bought Mosfets yet, I'll be matching a ton of them for my buddy's amp, and kitting up more pairs and quads for others. I'll be posting them here as that happens. I expect that will happen sometime in the month of September depending on when he orders his last batch of parts.
One more time. this is a standard 1 pair F5 version 3. not a F5 turbo V3.
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Old 19th August 2019, 05:26 PM   #23
rhthatcher is offline rhthatcher  United States
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F5 V3
I also have an Antek 4218 arriving later today for my SissySIT project. I'll measure snubbers on that, too. I'm guessing 20 Ohm range. 3218's I used on my F5's are 18 or 20 Ohm. More news when I measure.
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Old 19th August 2019, 05:57 PM   #24
McQuaide is offline McQuaide  United States
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The PS schematic on the last page of the F5 manual (15,000uf x8) and 18v secondaries produces plenty of punch. People are shocked that it's a 25W amp when they hear it.
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Old 19th August 2019, 10:36 PM   #25
rhthatcher is offline rhthatcher  United States
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F5 V3
I built a Quasimodo jig earlier this year and have used it in building several amps: Aleph Mini J, Aleph J Monoblocks, standard F5's, and now I'm going to build F5 Turbo's for a friend, and SissySIT's for me.
Going through old notes, here's the snubber values I went with.
Antek 4218 - 20 Ohm (SissySIT)
Antek 3218 - 20 Ohm (F5)
Antek 6435 - 20 Ohm (F5 Turbo V3)
Antek 3220 - 18 Ohm, 16 Ohm (Aleph J Mono)
Avel Lindberg Y236607 14 Ohm (Aleph Mini J Stereo)
Today I measured the 4218 and 6435's. For grins I set the pot to 20, and then to 18. The difference between 18 and 20 Ohms on the scope isn't much. I chose 20 because that's what I have on hand. 18 would be fine.



Caps I'm using are:
EPCOS/TDK CAP FILM 0.01uF 63VDC - Mouser p/n: 871-B32529C103K
EPCOS/TDK CAP FILM 0.15uF 63VDC - Mouser p/n: 871-B32529C154J
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Last edited by rhthatcher; 19th August 2019 at 10:39 PM.
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Old 20th August 2019, 12:29 AM   #26
flamethrower1 is offline flamethrower1  United States
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Thanks for all your help you guys, I appreciate it.
Have not ordered parts yet so, all of your info really helps.
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Old 20th August 2019, 06:05 PM   #27
SRMcGee is offline SRMcGee  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brian92fs View Post
SRMcCee - I believe you’re describing a PSU for a F5 Turbo build. He mentions a 18-0-18 transformer which suggests a “regular” F5 at 24V
Brian92fs:

You’re right, I should’ve caught that. Thanks for minimizing my misdirection!

Regards,
Scott
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Old 21st August 2019, 12:38 AM   #28
flamethrower1 is offline flamethrower1  United States
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How about these caps?
LGY1V223MELC50 Nichicon | Capacitors | DigiKey
Low ripple current, long life
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Old 21st August 2019, 12:50 AM   #29
flamethrower1 is offline flamethrower1  United States
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Also on the fence as which direction to go on the rectifier circuit.
Old school with blocks or the boards.
Going the block side is a little cheaper, and, fewer parts are fewer failures.
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Old 21st August 2019, 03:46 AM   #30
rhthatcher is offline rhthatcher  United States
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Those caps will work great.


I have built 8 or 9 amps with the rectifier boards. I'm doing my next 2 with bridges and doing a snubber circuit off some terminal blocks.



Why? The main reason for me is that I have made dual rail power supply boards for caps and resistors, and don't have any more rectifier boards. Plus I have the bridges in a spare parts box. I've read that a snubber on a so-so rectifier circuit beats the best fast/soft rectifier without snubbers. So I'm taking a decent bridge and adding snubbers.



If you have the boards and decide to use individual diodes or Schottky's, you'll need the separate diodes, heatsinks, and hardware (screws, washers, nuts, thermal insulating pad / washer depending on the rectifer.) It's a little more time and money to go for the individual diodes. But it's a DIY project, not a commercial design. Few extra bucks and a bit of time won't be end of the world if you decide to go that way.
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