you got relays , so see what's written on them , Dodo
adequate 78xx is already on switch board , while for channel boards - choose accordingly zenner diode a nd that's it (16V for 12V relays , 27V for 24V relays)
catch is that I sent few first packages with 24V relays and later I resorted to 12V relays as final solution
5 sources ; switch having 6 positions , first most left is Mu state ........ in western vocabulary , known as Mute
proper AC feed for Turtle switch PCB still need explanation (edit in first post)
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you got relays , so see what's written on them , Dodo
i looked for vaporetto ship venice to lipzia (where the relays are), but there isn´t any : )
tnx!
If I get:
Iron Pumpkin preamplifier(s) kits #5, without AVC...Put volume pot on front and Jenson transformer from F6 on tail, will this work with approx. 6 dB gain?
If yes, what pot in terms of 10K, 25K or 50K?
Which Cinemag model transformer would be better?
AVC just out of price range, will need to wait and use cheaper alternative version in mean time if it will work?
Idea from:
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/336597-f4-jewel-underestimated.html#post5759309
post # 26 of William2001.
Russellc
Iron Pumpkin preamplifier(s) kits #5, without AVC...Put volume pot on front and Jenson transformer from F6 on tail, will this work with approx. 6 dB gain?
If yes, what pot in terms of 10K, 25K or 50K?
Which Cinemag model transformer would be better?
AVC just out of price range, will need to wait and use cheaper alternative version in mean time if it will work?
Idea from:
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/336597-f4-jewel-underestimated.html#post5759309
post # 26 of William2001.
Russellc
yup
see post #2 , mid pic , two points most left - TP and TW ; that means Pot Top (CW lug) and Pot Wiper (mid lug)
so - exacto knife , cut between two pads , and you can resort to Iron Pre configuration , which is Selector - Pot - Buffer - Autoformer ( if you need/want it) - Out RCA
will it sing ...... Proud ZM sez - you bet!
Autoformer of your choice ..... I covered popular types in Iron Pre thread
edit: if my Iron Turtle is out of present price range , you can buy Intact audio 200$ AVC jobbies and implement them instead of Turtle , using mechanical switch and plenty of wire/wiring work
take care of having exactly that type - easily implemented for gain in same manner as Turtle , other (also more expensive ones) are not so easy or even totally incompatible for wiring them for gain
see post #2 , mid pic , two points most left - TP and TW ; that means Pot Top (CW lug) and Pot Wiper (mid lug)
so - exacto knife , cut between two pads , and you can resort to Iron Pre configuration , which is Selector - Pot - Buffer - Autoformer ( if you need/want it) - Out RCA
will it sing ...... Proud ZM sez - you bet!
Autoformer of your choice ..... I covered popular types in Iron Pre thread
edit: if my Iron Turtle is out of present price range , you can buy Intact audio 200$ AVC jobbies and implement them instead of Turtle , using mechanical switch and plenty of wire/wiring work
take care of having exactly that type - easily implemented for gain in same manner as Turtle , other (also more expensive ones) are not so easy or even totally incompatible for wiring them for gain
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I know from William2001's post that Jenson from F6 will work, but cinemag and others have tons of transformers. For Cinemag, is same one I ordered for SissySit/M25 correct also, or different model number needed? What about standard Edcor as in M2? I also have those on hand, or is another model from Edcor better for this use?
I dont know beans about transformer!
Russellc
I dont know beans about transformer!
Russellc
ok , it isn't so short thread ( linked one) and I wrote types of xformers there ..... but anyway - for this purpose you're looking at any of these (Edcor , Jensen , Cinemag) made as classic 600:600 repeater coils (named in Yore, telephone developing times)
so - if you need it strictly to drive F4 with full swing - use same one as in M2 (Edcor 600:15K) , if you want "just" 6db of gain - take same looking one Edcor , but choose 600:600 from drop menu on same page
for Jensen - use same one as in F6 - JT-123-FLPCH ( I believe there is also iteration with wires instead of PC pins, called slightly different)
for Cinemag - same one as in Sissy (DEFiSIT , SIT-3) , where you can choose two types of laminates (50%Ni-50%FeSi) CMOQ-4LPC and (100%Ni) CMOQ-4HPC
from accumulated experience .......... I would choose now - Edcor from M2 for full blast, and Cinemag 4HPC for 6db of gain
and yes - each of 600:600 jobbies - if having CT in primary - can be wired from 4V/V gain , which is 12db of gain
so - if you need it strictly to drive F4 with full swing - use same one as in M2 (Edcor 600:15K) , if you want "just" 6db of gain - take same looking one Edcor , but choose 600:600 from drop menu on same page
for Jensen - use same one as in F6 - JT-123-FLPCH ( I believe there is also iteration with wires instead of PC pins, called slightly different)
for Cinemag - same one as in Sissy (DEFiSIT , SIT-3) , where you can choose two types of laminates (50%Ni-50%FeSi) CMOQ-4LPC and (100%Ni) CMOQ-4HPC
from accumulated experience .......... I would choose now - Edcor from M2 for full blast, and Cinemag 4HPC for 6db of gain
and yes - each of 600:600 jobbies - if having CT in primary - can be wired from 4V/V gain , which is 12db of gain
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Iron Pumpkins BOMs .... well sort of
sort of - do not expect that I'm going to include purchase links , simply because I'm not operating that way
besides - whatever project is in case , I'm always making parts list from schematic , doing schm analyze in same time ...... result of years of doing same thing over and over , trying to grasp how something is actually working ..
general notes :
-all resistors are plain common peasant 0207/600mW Metal Films
-all zener diodes are tiny flimsy plain common peasant ones (500mW)
-all trimpots are multiturns with set screw on top , pins in line ; if you got from me ones with zig-zag pins , just use tweezers to line them ...... who's gonna bother with that details anyway
ask if you have more questions , of course
sort of - do not expect that I'm going to include purchase links , simply because I'm not operating that way
besides - whatever project is in case , I'm always making parts list from schematic , doing schm analyze in same time ...... result of years of doing same thing over and over , trying to grasp how something is actually working ..
general notes :
-all resistors are plain common peasant 0207/600mW Metal Films
-all zener diodes are tiny flimsy plain common peasant ones (500mW)
-all trimpots are multiturns with set screw on top , pins in line ; if you got from me ones with zig-zag pins , just use tweezers to line them ...... who's gonna bother with that details anyway
ask if you have more questions , of course
after long time laying in shelf : ) my build is making progress.
Buffer/Shunt PCB stuffed (except the NTC, C*- R*)
It took me a while to come back to the project. To be honest, it took me even few minutes to realize, that Turtle controller just activates relays and does not contain signal : )
So better to continue a bit guided.
Some questions:
-the AC1', AC2' -pads on controllerswitch PCB get AC just from Toroid, just without CT? I have nice Dual Mono Toroid from ZM and so I just use the two AC leads from one channel?
-What is the V+,V- pads on the buffer/shunt PCB for ?
happybest,
stefan
Buffer/Shunt PCB stuffed (except the NTC, C*- R*)
It took me a while to come back to the project. To be honest, it took me even few minutes to realize, that Turtle controller just activates relays and does not contain signal : )
So better to continue a bit guided.
Some questions:
-the AC1', AC2' -pads on controllerswitch PCB get AC just from Toroid, just without CT? I have nice Dual Mono Toroid from ZM and so I just use the two AC leads from one channel?
-What is the V+,V- pads on the buffer/shunt PCB for ?
happybest,
stefan
No, this way I´d have 30V somthing, it is one AC line plus CT-line (15-ish V)from one Channel ?
tomorrow we´ll know
as I've sent you that small donut , while forgetting that it's having 4 separate 15Vac secs , so I didn't solved wiring for ya .......
you can phase them either measuring inductance , or with simple test shown in attachment
it's simple in fact - connect primary you have to mains , carefully to not make some short (anywhere) ;
prior to that - tie two adjacent wires of two secondaries ; measure across other two (free) wires - if you have double voltage of just one sec , you got phasing right - and that common point is center tap
repeat the same for two other secs
if you have approx. zero volts across two free wires , you got it antiphase , so use other wire of one secondary
and of course that you need two AC wires and one CT to connect to pcb - that's the way to get bipolar supply
setting of buffer is practically the same as setting buffer of Sissy or Babelfish M25
will write that according to parts nomenclature
you can phase them either measuring inductance , or with simple test shown in attachment
it's simple in fact - connect primary you have to mains , carefully to not make some short (anywhere) ;
prior to that - tie two adjacent wires of two secondaries ; measure across other two (free) wires - if you have double voltage of just one sec , you got phasing right - and that common point is center tap
repeat the same for two other secs
if you have approx. zero volts across two free wires , you got it antiphase , so use other wire of one secondary
and of course that you need two AC wires and one CT to connect to pcb - that's the way to get bipolar supply
setting of buffer is practically the same as setting buffer of Sissy or Babelfish M25
will write that according to parts nomenclature
Attachments
ZM thanks, you won´t believe, i solved the wiring of trannie on my own : ), but never saw such a good sketch showing it, tnx!
I ment the wiring of the controller knob, not the buffer PCB, there is AC1, AC2 on PCB, but no CT. I thought 30V were too much..
take your time, i´m sure you´ll mention that in your write up.
Happythanks for that,
stefan
I ment the wiring of the controller knob, not the buffer PCB, there is AC1, AC2 on PCB, but no CT. I thought 30V were too much..
take your time, i´m sure you´ll mention that in your write up.
Happythanks for that,
stefan
if you have 24Vdc relays on Turtle , use AC and AC from one channel winding on donut , skipping CT ...... everything is OK , that supply is floating so no trouble
if you have 12Vdc relays - take one AC and CT , and you're good
you can also look at 78xx reg on switch pcb - is it 12 or 24 jobbie
if you have 12Vdc relays - take one AC and CT , and you're good
you can also look at 78xx reg on switch pcb - is it 12 or 24 jobbie
hope I put , then , 7812 ....... or you're going to be in trouble
take care of D7 value on channel pcbs
so , to repeat - for Turtle switch pcb - just route one AC and CT from one (any) channel pcb pads
that way you'll have nice and steady 15Vac to feed reg
you can take also voltage for LED(s) from there (C2 pins , schm in post #4) , with series resistor on the fly
silly me - I could include place for it on switch pcb itself , but I didn't had brain (enough) for that at a time
take care of D7 value on channel pcbs
so , to repeat - for Turtle switch pcb - just route one AC and CT from one (any) channel pcb pads
that way you'll have nice and steady 15Vac to feed reg
you can take also voltage for LED(s) from there (C2 pins , schm in post #4) , with series resistor on the fly
silly me - I could include place for it on switch pcb itself , but I didn't had brain (enough) for that at a time
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