Babelfish M25, SissySIT - general building tips and tricks

[Juntuin]

little progress on Babelfish M25 -

https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/att...25-sissysit-building-tips-tricks-img_8555-jpg

now I am to find a huge alutree to cut the case from.

btw: I' rather go with longer fins (7-10cm) than deeper case (< 35cm) by max 18cm height.
my M2 is only 30cm deep by 13.5cm height and goes only up to 60°Celsius.
I think that's within soa.
any objections?
cheers!
A.
ps: last picture of my powershot G9 (cmos died)

Hi,
You said that you are building M25, but looking at this photo reveals that there are couple of sissySit-only things going on?

 

[Attila I]

@Juntuin
if you have found any mistakes i made please share your knowledge.
all the best
A.

 

[Juntuin]

@Juntuin
if you have found any mistakes i made please share your knowledge.
all the best
A.

Hi,
I’m not 100% sure, but I would check if jumper wires are needed in M25 and double check diodes if there was other differences than ZD1 orientation (you have that correct) but don’t trust blindly my word, I’m a newbie.

 

[Zen Mod]

everything is self-explanatory , if you look at schmtcs in post #1

left one is Babelfish M25 , right one is SissySIT

print them both and compare , if you want to see differences

if not - print just one which is of interest , and mount strictly just parts shown on schm

jumpers ( two tiny long wires) - put them in , no biggie - just do not mount small diodes not shown on schm

 

[Attila I]

dammit!
you got me there - i did blindly mount D4,5 and wirebridges.
thank you Juntuin and ZenMod.
not used to boards with options
kind regards
Attila

 

[Juntuin]

dammit!
you got me there - i did blindly mount D4,5 and wirebridges.
thank you Juntuin and ZenMod.
not used to boards with options
kind regards
Attila

No worries, just happy to help

 

[dewdrop]

Made a schoolboy mistake by not checking before I solder the components but the SMT were too close to the hole, given my poor eyesight, I cant see this a connection in the schematic, wondering if I need to rework to prevent a short to the CBL, ZM can you advise?

 

[Zen Mod]

0R is OK < it is in contact with JFet drains

that next - colored - resistor - leg looks lousy soldered

 

[dewdrop]

Yes sir, lol. Let me check the lousy solder again.

 

[dewdrop]

0R is OK < it is in contact with JFet drains

that next - colored - resistor - leg looks lousy soldered

Wait, is it ok or not ok?

 

[Zen Mod]

sorry , I wasn't clear

RbL is good
R5L - that leg close to JFet needs resoldering
CBL - you can omit it if you're not going to try Borbely WCF

 

[dewdrop]

Thanks ZM, let me check on the offensive leg.

 

[dewdrop]

Offensive leg is on it's own without touching anything. Safe to proceed. ;-)

 

[Zen Mod]

hope you re-touched it with solder , just in case

 

[Rush]

hope you re-touched it with solder , just in case

In other words, looks like a cold solder joint.

Rush

 

[dewdrop]

I did top and bottom, so it is safe but will touch up for ease of mind. Thanks for the suggestions!

Will take a while to build up because I still need to drill and tap in order to mount the boards on a non-UMS chassis.

 

[Juntuin]

Yippee, it’s working now! What a rocky road, including new but already broken voltage regulator that caused some big problems. Then my own mistake with BD139 and BD140 on other channel.
I want to thank ZM for patience, you are really helpful fellow

Happy now!

 

[Zen Mod]

sound?

 

[Juntuin]

Can’t analyze just yet, my ”better” speakers havent arrived yet and sold my Duevel Venus. I’ll let you know later!

 

[dBel84]

Yippee, it’s working now! What a rocky road, including new but already broken voltage regulator that caused some big problems. Then my own mistake with BD139 and BD140 on other channel.
I want to thank ZM for patience, you are really helpful fellow

Happy now!

congrats!! it is well worth the trouble