I sorted it out on my own. Sorta.
I‘ll just stick to the variant and see what it gives. [emoji2956][emoji1307]
Still don’t know what would have happened if I went the other route.
Today, the chassis arrived, as well as some other cool stuff for other projects. It’s solder-season, finally.
Which chassis did you use? Modushop Slim Line 1U? I am still torn on going 1U vs 2U. I have 24 caps that may be too tall (the VRDN of course) and it seems wasteful to get shorter ones now... But 1U seems like a nice form factor.
Post pics when you start getting it together!
hi,
i am a diy beginner...
I read 90% of this topic and didn't find anyone trying BA 2018 with F6 output.
Can they work together?
I have listened to the BA2018 with the F6. It is a good combination. I prefer it to the B1 Korg with the F6.
Oh, I couldn‘t even unpack the box from Italy, but my target is a galaxy 1U (form factor I’m not sure anymore [emoji849])...
And I haven’t settled on the pot and selectors, probably a muses (smd-galore!) and Salas‘ I-select.
Mechanical fancyness in my mind...
We shall see.
I decided to use the same Hammond 1455T2201 as I used with the Whammy. Everything fits nice and snug. I could have had the board centered but it was offset to allow board connector clearances for the front panel but I decided to remove the connectors in the end but by then I had already drilled the holes in the chassis.
Ahh well it's still nest and tidy and it gives me ample room for cable routing. Still got the wiring to do and I've got a couple of fancy touch sensitive latching switches on the way with halo LED so will test those and may swap out that mechanical switch yet. That volume knob isn't staying either got a more fancy raw aluminium one on the way.
Ahh well it's still nest and tidy and it gives me ample room for cable routing. Still got the wiring to do and I've got a couple of fancy touch sensitive latching switches on the way with halo LED so will test those and may swap out that mechanical switch yet. That volume knob isn't staying either got a more fancy raw aluminium one on the way.
Attachments
I decided to use the same Hammond 1455T2201 as I used with the Whammy. Everything fits nice and snug. I could have had the board centered but it was offset to allow board connector clearances for the front panel but I decided to remove the connectors in the end but by then I had already drilled the holes in the chassis.
Ahh well it's still nest and tidy and it gives me ample room for cable routing. Still got the wiring to do and I've got a couple of fancy touch sensitive latching switches on the way with halo LED so will test those and may swap out that mechanical switch yet. That volume knob isn't staying either got a more fancy raw aluminium one on the way.
One in, one out.
Cool!
There are two which look identical made by different manufacturers.
Delta Electronics 10C3, DigiKey part no. 1144-1003-ND
Qualtek 764-00/002, DigiKey part no. Q307-ND
I used the Delta one this time round as it's cheaper than the Qualtek one. Quality are good and to me the same as each other. Previous projects I used the Qualtek which was before I discovered the Delta one existed.
It looks like the caps are 25mm long and the heatsink is 36mm so a bit of trimming on the heatsink should get it into a 1U Galaxy 240 mm x 280 case ( internal space 40mm including spacers ) Will let you know when the bits arrive!!!
There are two which look identical made by different manufacturers.
Delta Electronics 10C3, DigiKey part no. 1144-1003-ND
Qualtek 764-00/002, DigiKey part no. Q307-ND
I used the Delta one this time round as it's cheaper than the Qualtek one. Quality are good and to me the same as each other. Previous projects I used the Qualtek which was before I discovered the Delta one existed.
Thanks!
My Desktop System
BA2018 with Hammond chassis, 2 switchable inputs, fixed and variable line out, Whammy power supply with Triad transformer on custom PCB, Schaffner fused and filtered 2 amp AC inlet. Shown with matching Whammy HPA. Amplifier on right is a Millett NuClass D, connected to a pair of ADS L400 loudspeakers. No EQ required.
BA2018 with Hammond chassis, 2 switchable inputs, fixed and variable line out, Whammy power supply with Triad transformer on custom PCB, Schaffner fused and filtered 2 amp AC inlet. Shown with matching Whammy HPA. Amplifier on right is a Millett NuClass D, connected to a pair of ADS L400 loudspeakers. No EQ required.
Attachments
Some progress, slow but sure. I ordered the wrong 3-way terminal blocks so have to wait for yet another shipment from Mouser.
Big lesson for me (well, biggest so far) is to make sure I order everything in one go. This must be the third order from Mouser for this pre-amp. I think the shipping costs alone would have paid for a second set of components
. Ah well, maybe next time I'll get it right.
Hopefully by the end of next week it'll be making music and not smoke.
Big lesson for me (well, biggest so far) is to make sure I order everything in one go. This must be the third order from Mouser for this pre-amp. I think the shipping costs alone would have paid for a second set of components
. Ah well, maybe next time I'll get it right.Hopefully by the end of next week it'll be making music and not smoke.
Attachments
Some progress, slow but sure. I ordered the wrong 3-way terminal blocks so have to wait for yet another shipment from Mouser.
Big lesson for me (well, biggest so far) is to make sure I order everything in one go. This must be the third order from Mouser for this pre-amp. I think the shipping costs alone would have paid for a second set of components
Hopefully by the end of next week it'll be making music and not smoke.
I see you are using the bigger output caps. I read that C4 and C9 should be left vacant and C1 and C7 should be changed to 5pf. Also I didn't get heatsinks for mine as I didn't read anywhere that they even get hot. I'll see when mine is up and running and add them if needs be.
I did change C1 and C7 to 5pF, but must have missed the bit about leaving out C4 and C9. Should I definitely remove them?
I had the heatsinks lying around, so thought .... why not, can't do any harm
I did change C1 and C7 to 5pF, but must have missed the bit about leaving out C4 and C9. Should I definitely remove them?
I had the heatsinks lying around, so thought .... why not, can't do any harm
I followed the notes I had. There's more changes too like a couple of resistors to change. Take a look at the notes in the pic. You should use the 15R resistors with the bigger output transistors for maximum bias.
