I think the gentleman from Batsch said 10 micro Farads, not 10 nano Farads.
My bad.... got to excited at a simple solution and didn't re read it properly.
So 10uf wouldn't start to affect bass roll of?
Thanks for putting me straight.
Wow, that's a great post.. Maybe these autoformer arrangements like Iron Pumpkin are helping with the "energy preservation" thing (???)
That is exactly the case, I'm going to have to build one...zenmod says it will ruin you for any other method of attenuation. So many new projects.
Russellc
I made a few mistakes on my linestage, so please don’t take me for being a smartass.
But my offset drift, with shorted inputs, is below 0,5mv on both channels. Mind you I use the small output devices, and I have heatsinked them with TO-92 heatsinks.
I know that flux residue between JFET smd legs, even though maybe invisible residue, can cause drift. But experiences will surely vary, as with all projects...
Good luck!
Regards,
Andreas
But my offset drift, with shorted inputs, is below 0,5mv on both channels. Mind you I use the small output devices, and I have heatsinked them with TO-92 heatsinks.
I know that flux residue between JFET smd legs, even though maybe invisible residue, can cause drift. But experiences will surely vary, as with all projects...
Good luck!
Regards,
Andreas
Tempted!
Although my first WLSBA18 isn't even finished (still yet, I'm fighting the front-plate/my primitive metal-workshop! and want to implement a balance-pot),
I'm tempted to give it a second shot: as small as possible...
According to Wayne, the minimum current required is 25mA/channel—is that correct? (next to nothing, so to say!)
Then, 6L6 said that this gem works perfectly fine in the range of 15 - 20VDC.
I'll actually need something like 50 mA to get it running, and as a generous person I'd use a 2 x 12V 25VA transformer which would result in somewhere like 12V * 1.4 - something for the rectifiers closing in at around 15V (and 1A)...
How wrong am I up to here?
Looking at various PSU-solutions (small form-factor being important), I found the super-regulator, small but beautiful.
(If I'm right, Jan's SilentSwitcher isn't suitable (don't know how it's called, but it's not that dual thing))
Are there other good but smallish PSUs around?
avid
Although my first WLSBA18 isn't even finished (still yet, I'm fighting the front-plate/my primitive metal-workshop! and want to implement a balance-pot),
I'm tempted to give it a second shot: as small as possible...
According to Wayne, the minimum current required is 25mA/channel—is that correct? (next to nothing, so to say!)
Then, 6L6 said that this gem works perfectly fine in the range of 15 - 20VDC.
I'll actually need something like 50 mA to get it running, and as a generous person I'd use a 2 x 12V 25VA transformer which would result in somewhere like 12V * 1.4 - something for the rectifiers closing in at around 15V (and 1A)...
How wrong am I up to here?
Looking at various PSU-solutions (small form-factor being important), I found the super-regulator, small but beautiful.
(If I'm right, Jan's SilentSwitcher isn't suitable (don't know how it's called, but it's not that dual thing))
Are there other good but smallish PSUs around?
avid
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Finally got my linestage up and running. A bit unsure if the bipolars survived a possibly fatal miswiring last week, but looking good at the moment.
Sound is sublime. My speakers just disappeared, and there is a sense of sound everywhere. Tight and A LOT of bass, liquid midrange and smooth highs. Can’t ask for more. Thanks Wayne, and everybody that helped me along the way! And especially Myleftear who provided an Easter egg enabling me to complete it =)
Sound is sublime. My speakers just disappeared, and there is a sense of sound everywhere. Tight and A LOT of bass, liquid midrange and smooth highs. Can’t ask for more. Thanks Wayne, and everybody that helped me along the way! And especially Myleftear who provided an Easter egg enabling me to complete it =)
You deserve it, David!
Entry point? It’s a Colburn design!
Well, given the work required, it might be entry. You might be comparing to Chokys Iron Pumpkin? That would be a really cool build. I think I’ll postpone that until I stop messing up every project I do with amateur stupid mistakes... mistakes I know better than to make...
Or until Choky donates me one. Not sure I have enough kudos yet, or if he even donates
Entry point? It’s a Colburn design!
Well, given the work required, it might be entry. You might be comparing to Chokys Iron Pumpkin? That would be a really cool build. I think I’ll postpone that until I stop messing up every project I do with amateur stupid mistakes... mistakes I know better than to make...
Or until Choky donates me one. Not sure I have enough kudos yet, or if he even donates
Am working the front-plate... since yesterday.
If anyone ever tried to cut a 30mm hole into a 100 aluminium-plate with a hand-drilling machine, chapeau! (If not, it's a hard job, believe me).
And then, right on the first hole, the 2.5mm drill-bit I was using as "lead" for the following bigger ones got stuck and broke apart. Had to fret saw around it and "recreate" a properly centered hole to be able to keep the frontplate. Now I'm at hole N° 3, the hard part still in front of me ...
If anyone ever tried to cut a 30mm hole into a 100 aluminium-plate with a hand-drilling machine, chapeau! (If not, it's a hard job, believe me).
And then, right on the first hole, the 2.5mm drill-bit I was using as "lead" for the following bigger ones got stuck and broke apart. Had to fret saw around it and "recreate" a properly centered hole to be able to keep the frontplate. Now I'm at hole N° 3, the hard part still in front of me ...
I only did that once. The multi day agony of that experience, convinced me that a low priced "tabletop drill press" from Amazon, would save me so much time and prevent so much misery, that it was worth far more than the USD 120 selling price. I've never regretted the purchase.
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