First time F5 build

[rayma]

I'm thinking about putting the PSU and the Amplifier in two different chassis for ventilation purposes.
Is it okay to have a long distance wire run between the rectifier and the amp?

Keep it all in one chassis, unless you want to go with monoblocks (two separate, mono amplifiers).
A separate power supply chassis won't help thermally.

 

[jakesnake1]

Okay y'all good news. I discovered the Digikey parts numbers in the BOM. Still lost on the ones without numbers though. Any guidance is appreciated.

 

[jakesnake1]

@Rayma, I see what you're saying but In my application, my bedroom cabinet is pretty small with not a lot of area for heat to dissipate. So I was thinking I could put one pretty box under my Tv for aesthetics (The amplifier) and hide the PSU somewhere with good ventilation. I believe it would overheat or damage my furniture if I kept it in one box.

 

[rayma]

I could put one pretty box under my Tv for aesthetics (The amplifier) and hide the PSU
somewhere with good ventilation. I believe it would overheat or damage my furniture
if I kept it in one box.

The power supply dissipation (diode blocks and resistors) is small compared to
that of the audio channels. Instead, I'd use a cooling fan on each heat sink,
or else turn down the bias until your placement changes, if it's only short term.

 

[jakesnake1]

Got my words mixed up sorry. I meant the PSU under my TV and the amp somewhere else. Unfortunately its not short term Is it a bad idea or just not ideal?

I put together the BOM Digi-Key - Fast Add still unsure on the other values for the Input snubber resistor and Input snubber Capacitors. Im using a single Antek 4218. I'll do some reading but would like a second opinion before I order.

 

[rayma]

Got my words mixed up sorry. I meant the PSU under my TV and the amp somewhere else.

I would go with a single chassis. The audio boards/sinks are the biggest and hottest parts,
so the entire amp may just as well be somewhere else. There isn't any size or thermal
advantage to separating out the power supply, since the audio chassis would still be the
same size and heat dissipation.

 

[jakesnake1]

Noted, I'll see if I can figure out another solution.

In the mean time. Any rec's for the input snubber resistor? It's weird because I read a couple of build guides and I cant seem to find any reference to this and another part.

 

[Mrshazbot]

Here is a thread that has some good PSU pictures. You can see the exact capacitors being used. I think these higher total capacitors than the PSU needs, but I don’t think it matters - Vishay 22000uf 35v. I also ask the same question about the CL60 but Digikey doesn’t have the part, had to order it from Mouser.

I just bought all the stuff myself but haven’t received it yet and went through all the questions you have and eventually figured it out after a month or so.

Here’s the post

diyAudio F5 Build Guide

 

[Dennis Hui]

CL60 at digikey:

CL-60 Amphenol Advanced Sensors | Circuit Protection | DigiKey

 

[silasmellor]

The snubber only makes sense if you know the right value from testing the ringing if the transformer you use afaik. It’s not mandatory, add that later if you get the possibility of testing your trafo.

 

[WKCox]

Snubbers are not required for the F5 so don't worry about that.

Suggest these three things for a successful build:

1. Buy the F5 kit of parts from the DIYaudio store. You will have all of the correct parts that have proven to fit the board and play well together. It's cheap insurance.
2. Follow the 6L6 build guide religiously. Again, a proven build process that others have followed with great success.
3. Continue to ask questions in the F5 forum if unsure about any step.

 

[jakesnake1]

Can anybody give me some advice on what jumper cable and wiring I should use throughout the amp? Getting a lot of conflicting information. @Silasmellor, so the purpose of the snubber is to clean up the power from the Transformer? are there any other parts that can be considered optional?


Thanks

 

[jakesnake1]

Also I'm confused as to whether I need 4 or 8 capacitors.

This guy uses 4 An illustrated guide to building an F5

This guy uses 8 diyAudio Power Supply Circuit Board v3 illustrated build guide


Is it because the second one is universal as opposed to just being enough for the F5?

Why not wire them in dual mono, isn't that preferable for the second one instead of connecting them?

 

[jakesnake1]

Thanks for the quick response WKCox, I completed step 1 and will focus my attention to step 2 and the step 3

 

[jakesnake1]

Wait so that means I need two PSU pcb's and 8 caps?

 

[invaderzim]

The 4 capacitors are 33,000 uf each and the 8 are 22,000 each so one is 66,000 per side and the other is 88,000. It is my understanding that anything in that range for a total is fine

 

[jakesnake1]

I haven't had any luck finding capacitors with that much capacitance. Best I could find with 35v and 105c were 27,000uf each.

 

[invaderzim]

If you go with 8 total then 22,000 each is more then plenty. It seems like I read somewhere that Mr Pass uses something in the 66,000 range per side.

 

[Dennis Hui]

I suggest you use the universal PS board:

Universal PSU – diyAudio Store

It has room for 8 caps (with diameter <=35mm) so anything over 15000uF each will
meet the original PS capacitance amount.

My last few PS were built using 8 x 22000uF caps.

 

[jakesnake1]

Oh okay cool, so the Universal PSU board has space for 8 caps. Thats good. Thanks for all the help. The F5 kit and boards should be getting here soon so I'll solder that up and do some more research in the meantime. If I have more questions is this a good place to ask or should I start a new thread?

One more question-what type of jumpers should i use to connect the boards?