Thanks for those links, Mark. I've been searching through a pile of automotive tools, for the most part, to build this stuff. It would have been much easier to have the correct tools at hand.
dB - I will definitely get the Norwoods back in. I quite enjoyed them first time through, in that magical time when the amp was warmed up, but the fans hadn't yet kicked in. Thanks again for your generosity, and that of Kevin, whose boards sadly gave their lives in my first attempt at SMD construction.
dB - I will definitely get the Norwoods back in. I quite enjoyed them first time through, in that magical time when the amp was warmed up, but the fans hadn't yet kicked in. Thanks again for your generosity, and that of Kevin, whose boards sadly gave their lives in my first attempt at SMD construction.
I built the MT board with the parts as per the BOM from Mouser, US. The elusive RED led I got it from Mark who graciously sent me over. Now when I replaced one of the existing Ishikawa board with the MT I can see the RED led lighting up on power on of the amplifier. But there is no music playing from the channel where MT is placed but the other channel with Ishikawa plays music. Then I replaced both the Ishikawa with the MT and I can see that the speakers are having hum/hiss sound on power up but there is no music playing through them. So the speakers are up with hum so there is output and no issues with the offset as I have dual mono speaker protection boards and they work fine. Any pointers to where I should check the issues on this board.
Thanks
Thanks
I've had a few questions about the little CLC board that I used to tie the power supplies together. It is:
LPS212A | Connex Electronic
One warning: The male connector attachments to the board are not really robust, so if you think that you might at some point have to disconnect leads to or from the board, be careful. Perhaps loosen up the female wiring connectors, as Mark suggested in a prior post,
LPS212A | Connex Electronic
One warning: The male connector attachments to the board are not really robust, so if you think that you might at some point have to disconnect leads to or from the board, be careful. Perhaps loosen up the female wiring connectors, as Mark suggested in a prior post,
Is this an accurate summary?
- You built two Mountain View circuit boards
- When installed in M2x, each of them lights up its red LED
- When installed in M2x, neither of the two boards worked. The only output at the speakers was hiss, not music.
Check for cold-soldered joints, the number one cause of circuit misbehavior on diyAudio PCBs.
Check that you installed the three KSC3503 transistors correctly; it's pretty easy to put them in backwards by mistake. If one of them is rotated 180 degrees, I recommend replacing it with a fresh brand new transistor if possible.
Check that D1, D2, and the LED are installed correctly and not reversed.
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Hello tubesguy from Danilo the newbye.
May you draw the schematich of connections from LRS200 and CLC circuit?
And from CLC to ampli borad?
And, also of course the schematich of CLC board.
I would like do do the same fot F5.
T.I.A.
Danilo
May you draw the schematich of connections from LRS200 and CLC circuit?
And from CLC to ampli borad?
And, also of course the schematich of CLC board.
I would like do do the same fot F5.
T.I.A.
Danilo
Thanks Mark, your analysis is right. Both the MT boards are not working even though the Red LED lights up on both. Actually I replaced the caps on the MT boards with Nichicon ones instead of the generic ones which I got locally. Maybe I would have damaged some traces in replacing them. Will check that out with the continuity test on the DMM. Regarding the D1/D2 I think they are fine with the polarity. But the KSC3503 transistors will need to check and I will post the high resolution pics for easy reference. This could also be the problem as I would have soldered the other side.
Thanks
Hello Danilo -
I really don't know how to produce a schematic using the computer, but I will be taking the amplifier out of the system tomorrow (to add fans for additional cooling) and will take some detailed close-up photos of how it is all connected. (With credit again to dB, who helped me out with concept and implementation.)
I can't tell you if the CLC board is absolutely necessary or if there would be noise without it, because I installed it from the start. It functions as a final filter, which is perhaps always helpful, and also as a convenient way to (on the input side) tie the two power supplies together correctly in a series connection and (on the output side) provide separate +, -, and ground connections for each of the two channels. The capacitors are 50v 5600 microfarad, and the inductors do not show their values. If I were starting over, I would use smaller capacitors, and size the inductors to effectively filter at the power supply's switching frequency.
Pictures tomorrow, which I will post in your F5 thread.
I really don't know how to produce a schematic using the computer, but I will be taking the amplifier out of the system tomorrow (to add fans for additional cooling) and will take some detailed close-up photos of how it is all connected. (With credit again to dB, who helped me out with concept and implementation.)
I can't tell you if the CLC board is absolutely necessary or if there would be noise without it, because I installed it from the start. It functions as a final filter, which is perhaps always helpful, and also as a convenient way to (on the input side) tie the two power supplies together correctly in a series connection and (on the output side) provide separate +, -, and ground connections for each of the two channels. The capacitors are 50v 5600 microfarad, and the inductors do not show their values. If I were starting over, I would use smaller capacitors, and size the inductors to effectively filter at the power supply's switching frequency.
Pictures tomorrow, which I will post in your F5 thread.
Some M2X listening impressions. My setup is M2X as mono blocks (input board Tucson with OPA604). I use Bluesound Node2i as source. I have a Tidal HiFi agreement so I can listen to MQA recordings (mostly 24 bit). I use a passive pre (Goldpoint 24 step 10k attenuator). This gives the perfect amount of amplification and a very silent setup. Then I can listen to the pure M2X sound without "coloration" from a preamp. And I can say that the sound is just perfect for my ears. Very transparent and nice polished sound without being "rounded". Stereo imaging is very good and easy to hear position of each instrument. A really nice thing is that I can listen for hours. That is the most important that you look forward to power on the amps and have a listening session. I would like other to try using passive pre and hear their impressions (if you don't use turntable). I can't hear any "push-pull" artifacts. It is my first PP-amp after 300B, ACA and MoFo. I feel I can live with M2X without need for the others. With ACA and MoFo I was still very happy with 300B. It is difficult for me in the moment try using other input boards as I feel it is just perfect "as is". But I will of course…...somewhere in the future. Think I also enjoy a little "pause" in DIY......and have a nice clean "dinning table"..... 
I think M2X input boards are very "passive preamp friendly".....even with C0 mounted
I think M2X input boards are very "passive preamp friendly".....even with C0 mounted
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I built a B1 Korg Triode preamp for my M2x amplifier, here are the REW graphs for the preamp and amp together with 9.5 vdc plate voltage for the B1 and 2 volts out into 4 ohms on the amp. First graph is the amp only, second is with B1 Korg, both using Ishikawa boards.
The B1 preamp really made this amp sound incredible! Large soundstage extending way past the speakers, with incredible depth which was missing using my Hafler 915 preamp.
The B1 preamp really made this amp sound incredible! Large soundstage extending way past the speakers, with incredible depth which was missing using my Hafler 915 preamp.
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Thank you!
My distortion measurements can be found in post #2334 on both channels for comparation.
Will be interesting to se how much different input boards will influence on this.