Just a follow up post to let everyone know that a generous diy'er is posting me a set of blank boards. Thanks @Chris Jones KS !
Best,
Anand.
So. Fitted the new Mosfets with Keratherm and reassembled.Thanks. Mosfets and Keratherm Red ordered
But in my haste to power up between finishing work and going on an errand, I forgot the boards are mirrors and not the same, so guess what...I connected +ve and -ve the wrong way and promptly melted the jfets on the Ishikawa. Lesson learned...do not rush.
I've repaired the daughter board and it's working OK on the good channel.
However something else has obviously gone on the affected channel - I am getting sound, but low and distorted - and the Mosfets are not warming up.
Any thoughts on what is likely damaged with reversed polarity on this circuit?
I assembled Mountain View last night after using Ishikawa for over a month. Verrrryyyyy interesting. No combination of components I’ve ever had has sounded like this…which makes it a bit mesmerizing.
I don’t have a sufficient vocabulary or understanding of the psychoacoustic principles that lead us to use certain adjectives for certain distortion profiles but there are things it reminds me of from looonnnggg ago when I spent more time with a guitar in my hand than listening to music ( my left thumb is still bent ).
Said another way, whatever the distortion profile is the first thing it reminded me of was pinging harmonics to tune up, or when two amps and the room constructively interfered ( depending on where you were standing ) and your ears catch it.
It’s very nice at moderate volume levels, but I don’t think I’d rock it out the same way you can the F4…which could roast your ear drums if not careful.
All the parts for Norwood are here but I’m not tackling that until working through a SMD practice kit.
Fun stuff
I don’t have a sufficient vocabulary or understanding of the psychoacoustic principles that lead us to use certain adjectives for certain distortion profiles but there are things it reminds me of from looonnnggg ago when I spent more time with a guitar in my hand than listening to music ( my left thumb is still bent ).
Said another way, whatever the distortion profile is the first thing it reminded me of was pinging harmonics to tune up, or when two amps and the room constructively interfered ( depending on where you were standing ) and your ears catch it.
It’s very nice at moderate volume levels, but I don’t think I’d rock it out the same way you can the F4…which could roast your ear drums if not careful.
All the parts for Norwood are here but I’m not tackling that until working through a SMD practice kit.
Fun stuff
With my setup Mountain View seems to give a smidge more volume ( drive ) and extension in the low end.
The sound stage is deeper and wider too…almost like a subtle “spatial” effect. Some sounds get thrown very wide, like they’re coming from the sides.
These troels bookshelf 3wc speakers far exceeded my expectations in bass performance for a 9” in such a small cabinet.
They sound like he voiced them for jazz, upright bass always come through perfect.
The sound stage is deeper and wider too…almost like a subtle “spatial” effect. Some sounds get thrown very wide, like they’re coming from the sides.
These troels bookshelf 3wc speakers far exceeded my expectations in bass performance for a 9” in such a small cabinet.
They sound like he voiced them for jazz, upright bass always come through perfect.
I can enthusiastically recommend Mark Johnson's AmyAlice board as an SMD practice kit with a very useful output -- order 10-20 boards, the parts are cheap in 10+ quantities and you have useful devices to use, trade, gift or sell. Happy to answer questions.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...apacitors-smd-assembly-max-3a-max-48v.405099/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...apacitors-smd-assembly-max-3a-max-48v.405099/
I already had a Mouser order tee'd up so just added the Milpitas parts to the mix. They've already arrived. All that remains is ordering the boards.
This will be my first time ordering PCBs this way so please pardon the noob questions
I'm not particularly concerned with when they finally arrive or sensitive to cost; more that I place the right order for boards comparable to the DIYA store ( or perhaps Broskie GlassWare ), which are as pretty as they are durable and forgiving if cleaning up a mistake. But, I have no idea what attributes make them that way.
Any other features I should be concerned with, or add, to accomplish that? What surface finish is best for this application? Thickness?
Have a look at this little tutorial, I think it may resolve all your doubts
Ordering PCBs online (using Gerber files): A walkthrough. --- featuring the fab "JLCPCB"
Ordering PCBs online (using Gerber files): A walkthrough. --- featuring the fab "JLCPCB"
@poseidonsvoice I built an M2 with relatively little background beside building an ACA and being half way competent at soldering. The M2 was hard. For some reason getting the various push on connectors and tools properly speced and firmly connected was a major PITA - I was tempted to solder everything in place.
I found this Aleph J build guide to be indispensable, since it covers practically everything, including sourcing certain tools and wiring. You need to follow different instructions for the amplifier boards, of course.
https://diyalephj.blogspot.com/2020/
From the introduction:
Well, the amplifier is fantastic. I'm using mine to drive original Quad electrostatics and I love it.
I found this Aleph J build guide to be indispensable, since it covers practically everything, including sourcing certain tools and wiring. You need to follow different instructions for the amplifier boards, of course.
https://diyalephj.blogspot.com/2020/
From the introduction:
Well, the amplifier is fantastic. I'm using mine to drive original Quad electrostatics and I love it.
Yes, member @flohmann as I recall did a great writeup. Should be required reading for all new builders.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/aleph-j-build-guide-for-noobs.357002/
Best,
Anand.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/aleph-j-build-guide-for-noobs.357002/
Best,
Anand.
Time to pitch my own subjective words into the sea of reviews on the M2X input cards:
Ishikawa: Smooth and detailed top to bottom. Endless hours of effortless fatigue-free listening. Soudstage centered.
Moutain View: Mid and top sugary. Bloomy bass. Distortion in the mix for certain songs takes on a new character I've never heard and still cant describe well. Sounstage very wide.
Norwood: Aural scanning electron microscope. Mid and top somehow "sharp" yet satisfying. Low end a smidge subdued relative to Mountain View. If the engineer in the "soundproof booth" sneezes youll hear it. Soundstage deep and wide.
Milpitas: Up next.
I figured I'd try to assemble Norwood since it was all here already and Milpitas was inevitable. Wasnt so bad. Tutorials were priceless. Went slow, used manifiers, let the flux do its job and went light on the solder. Wouldnt have been successul without magnification...very small hard to spot solder bridges in a few places that were easily remedied with the solder sucker.
Ishikawa: Smooth and detailed top to bottom. Endless hours of effortless fatigue-free listening. Soudstage centered.
Moutain View: Mid and top sugary. Bloomy bass. Distortion in the mix for certain songs takes on a new character I've never heard and still cant describe well. Sounstage very wide.
Norwood: Aural scanning electron microscope. Mid and top somehow "sharp" yet satisfying. Low end a smidge subdued relative to Mountain View. If the engineer in the "soundproof booth" sneezes youll hear it. Soundstage deep and wide.
Milpitas: Up next.
I figured I'd try to assemble Norwood since it was all here already and Milpitas was inevitable. Wasnt so bad. Tutorials were priceless. Went slow, used manifiers, let the flux do its job and went light on the solder. Wouldnt have been successul without magnification...very small hard to spot solder bridges in a few places that were easily remedied with the solder sucker.