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The diyAudio First Watt M2x
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Old 22nd January 2019, 12:15 AM   #1301
6L6 is offline 6L6  United States
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The diyAudio First Watt M2x
The only difference is the top, bottom, and back plates. The front and heatsinks are aluminum in all versions. They are otherwise identical.
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Old 22nd January 2019, 12:20 AM   #1302
Zen Mod is online now Zen Mod  Serbia
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speaking of Modushop - I prefer steel ones ..... for me better, from technical point of view (better magnetic screening)


some are saying that full Al is better looking

both are on same quality level
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Old 22nd January 2019, 12:30 AM   #1303
Blk Dynamite is offline Blk Dynamite  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zen Mod View Post
speaking of Modushop - I prefer steel ones ..... for me better, from technical point of view (better magnetic screening)


some are saying that full Al is better looking

both are on same quality level
Have to agree. Both of my builds use the steel chassis from the store
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Old 22nd January 2019, 03:58 AM   #1304
joshua43214 is offline joshua43214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darrr View Post
Inne Poland it will be too expensive than from Italy. Which version is better - aluminum or steel?
I prefer the aluminum.
Steel couples with magnetic fields, so it grants you some immunity to magnetic fields - assuming you have magnetic fields you need to block. It will also couple with the magnetic fields leaked by transformers in unpredictable ways.

Aluminum on the other hand offers essentially no EMI shielding, but it is good for RFI. Practically speaking though, the anodized finish will prevent the chassis panels from making good contact with each other. So that should be taken into consideration during construction.

Since the only magnetic fields near my gear are the transformers, and I do have RFI floating around my house, aluminum is the clear winner.
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Old 22nd January 2019, 09:33 AM   #1305
batty is offline batty  Australia
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Is this correct?

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Posted 20 minutes ago
56 minutes ago, Sub Sonic said:
Have a look at this @Zaphod Beeblebrox, I’m curious now.



A2180FA1-A2F8-4806-A353-BF6F79EC1F84.thumb.gif.7363b5686032cd727536356a1a6 72681.gif


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R13 and R14 are local feedback resistors. Without them, the amplifier would sound horrible, or be unstable (thermally) or both. In the front end, R3 and R4 are also local, degenerative feedback resistors.

In relation to the M2 R1 cct diagram.
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Old 22nd January 2019, 01:38 PM   #1306
Mark Johnson is offline Mark Johnson  United States
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Google Advanced Search:

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The diyAudio First Watt M2x-patooey99-png


I guess you could try again in a couple days to see if their Web Crawlers found something.
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Old 22nd January 2019, 08:22 PM   #1307
batty is offline batty  Australia
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I was refering to the cct description of what the resistors do.

The quote is not from this forum.
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Old Yesterday, 12:51 AM   #1308
stablgr is offline stablgr
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Thanks for your replies...


Quote:
Originally Posted by dBel84 View Post
Hi Gary

coming from the headphone world, there are many folk who use power amps , first watt amps in particular, to drive headphones directly

It does somewhat depend on your headphones, if you have a pair of high efficiency in ear monitors, then clearly no. But if you have planar magnetic or some of the older headphones form Beyerdynamic or Sennheiser, it could work out well for you.

a few things to consider - noise floor in power amps is often higher than dedicated headphone amps - power up transients can be much higher than typically seen in headphone amps : my M2X can spike up to a volt which on a speaker is nothing but headphones will not like this, so it will be important not to have headphones plugged in with power up and this brings in the next problem - a standard TRS jack will short the signal to ground as you plug it in - this is not something the amp will like , most people who use headphones and power amps use a 4-pin XLR which mitigates the risk for a short but does mean that your headphones will need a balanced cable.

Happy to discuss further if you want to take it to PM
..dB


Quote:
Originally Posted by Zen Mod View Post
trade your M2 hardware , go buy Whammy thingie and build it

or even better - go buy Whammy thingie and build it , leave M2 parts in closet for better times ......

Sounds like I have a couple of options... I think I might try both to see what they sound like and which one I prefer. First things first though, got to close the deal on the house and move before starting to build anything


Thanks again for your help,
Gary
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