If your looking at discrete op amps, this is worth a read Staccato Discrete Op-amps | Audiofool Reviews
This rabbit hole is deep! I feel like I used to have a life or do other things before planning this
So, I am wanting to make sure my build can accomodate this brunson op amp. I don't plan to buy it, but I envision my buddy getting his whammy gift and finding out how good it is and then finding out he could try a Burson op amp and possibly make it sound better and wanting to persue that.
Since I stumbled on some of thus Burson talk, I have tried to search and am worried I might be missing some info as to what changes I should do in making sure my build is prepared for this op amp. I saw the "MKP cap modification, which is a polyester 0.1 cap across the + and - supply rails". Is that a Burson opamp only mod or would it be ok to have in there for other op amps? Anything else I'm missing that needs to be considered?
LOL!
I too ran across that. I was fortunate to receive some demo parts from Burson. I am definitely not an expert, but a kind person walked me through how to do it earlier in the thread. It's fairly easy. There are manufacturers that even sell DIP sockets with caps already in place. I found that pretty cool. I can't say whether/if that mod applies to other opamps, but I've got mine on the socket, so it's not permanent. I'm also one of "those" people that stacked sockets. FWIW, I did my primary listening before I knew of the recommended and proper way to do it. Mine worked and sounded wonderful even before adding the cap.
One key is to ensure that you have space between the electrolytic caps to the side and the OpAmp. The Burson OpAmps take up more space, and won't wedge in there w/o some help or some mods with the "normal" diameter caps in the kit. See the board placement. I believe I heard that the next kit will use either smaller diameter caps and/or the board placement might be different. Also... in a very tight chassis, height might be a consideration.
I too ran across that. I was fortunate to receive some demo parts from Burson. I am definitely not an expert, but a kind person walked me through how to do it earlier in the thread. It's fairly easy. There are manufacturers that even sell DIP sockets with caps already in place. I found that pretty cool. I can't say whether/if that mod applies to other opamps, but I've got mine on the socket, so it's not permanent. I'm also one of "those" people that stacked sockets. FWIW, I did my primary listening before I knew of the recommended and proper way to do it. Mine worked and sounded wonderful even before adding the cap.
One key is to ensure that you have space between the electrolytic caps to the side and the OpAmp. The Burson OpAmps take up more space, and won't wedge in there w/o some help or some mods with the "normal" diameter caps in the kit. See the board placement. I believe I heard that the next kit will use either smaller diameter caps and/or the board placement might be different. Also... in a very tight chassis, height might be a consideration.
I saw the pics from thomasnadeau (many helpful posts, thanks!) "WHAMMY" Pass DIY headphone amp guide
I could look to try and get a couple similar caps but smaller or just use his technique and not put the legs in a deep so you can angle them away.
I could look to try and get a couple similar caps but smaller or just use his technique and not put the legs in a deep so you can angle them away.
Davo 1:
re: Burson & PS voltages. I'm safely running LED references and the cap mod with the Burson V6 Classic. See my previous posts:
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"WHAMMY" Pass DIY headphone amp guide
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"WHAMMY" Pass DIY headphone amp guide
re: Burson & PS voltages. I'm safely running LED references and the cap mod with the Burson V6 Classic. See my previous posts:
Post 3338
"WHAMMY" Pass DIY headphone amp guide
Post 2911
"WHAMMY" Pass DIY headphone amp guide
I looked back and found that post about "Hotenda" having stock, but they never got back to my inquiry, so I'm still searching, hence the post.
If your listening sources don't have any DC offset, like capacitor or transformer coupled outputs, an easy mod is to jumper the input coupling capacitors C1 and C5. You could even put in a relay for that with a switch on the front panel. One less capacitor in the signal path is a good thing if it's not needed to block DC.
Unless you are planing on running +/-24V rail voltage, you don't need the 22V transformer. You are much better off with 2x15Vac transformer (for naked regulator only) or 2x18Vac transformer (for naked regulator or LED reference).
I'm using 2x18Vac 30VA transformer.
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Hello all,
I apologize for my repeated questions. I’m trying to eliminate any mistakes caused by my ignorance. Are C8 & C10 used in the naked configuration?
Since I’ll be using the Sparkos regulators, I have a few questions specifically for their use. They recommend adding a 100uF electrolytic capacitor (Panasonic 100uF 50V Capacitor - Sparkos Labs, Inc.) at the regulator output. How could this be best accomplished? Or is this already done with C9 & C28? Could I stuff C8/C10 with their recommended cap?
Thank you once again!
Kind regards,
Davo
I apologize for my repeated questions. I’m trying to eliminate any mistakes caused by my ignorance. Are C8 & C10 used in the naked configuration?
Since I’ll be using the Sparkos regulators, I have a few questions specifically for their use. They recommend adding a 100uF electrolytic capacitor (Panasonic 100uF 50V Capacitor - Sparkos Labs, Inc.) at the regulator output. How could this be best accomplished? Or is this already done with C9 & C28? Could I stuff C8/C10 with their recommended cap?
Thank you once again!
Kind regards,
Davo
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I was just planning on following the original guide, as I'm not savvy enough to understand the modifications like you describe. For example, I don't know what "naked regulator" is, other than perhaps a good name for a 90s techno musician. I'm open to suggestions though, if there's good documentation I can follow. My EE knowledge is basically nonexistent, I just like soldering, following instructions, and having fun new audio toys when I'm done.
naked regulators are "only regulators" (for +/-15Vdc rails). LED reference is regulators+LED diodes (for around +/-16.8Vdc rails)
The 22+22Vac transformers is only needed for +/-24Vdc rails. wich you don't want, as that will limit your OP amp options alot. If you use this transformer for 15V or 16.8V rails, your regulators will get alot hotter then if you use a 18+18V transformer.
The 22+22Vac transformers is only needed for +/-24Vdc rails. wich you don't want, as that will limit your OP amp options alot. If you use this transformer for 15V or 16.8V rails, your regulators will get alot hotter then if you use a 18+18V transformer.
I noticed at the beginning of this thread that I could use this transformer which is currently in stock, as long as I make R16, R22, R29 and R32 15ohm. That sounds good right?
Would that play nice with Burson op-amps? I've always been fond of Bursons.
I was just exploring options this morning, and couldn't find anything. I decided to go for the "surplus" transformer linked in the original guide at the beginning of this thread, and just use 15ohm instead of 10ohm resistors for R16, R22, R29 and R32 as 6L6 suggests. I'm assuming it will "work beautifully" as 6L6 says it will. If you find other options, do let me know.