"WHAMMY" Pass DIY headphone amp guide

My WHAMMY

This is my half-ready double-balanced WHAMMY as preamp, mostly.
I'm using it now for almost a year.
I can say it, this was a big leap change my BoSoZ to this one regarding sound quality towards to that XP-10 which was my patient for some days.
Many thanks, Wayne!
 

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I just got OPA2604. Should be the original Burr Brown. I am 99% sure it is the original and not a copy from China. If somebody can recognize something from the printing which can confirm this I will be happy and also happy using +- 24V. Then it should be good for the MoFo also.

What was the reason to select a 100k pot for the Whammy kit instead of a 50k?

Your opa2604 looks original here is a photo of one that is also "99%" original
 

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Yes, it is a very nice build…...this double-balanced version. A lot of thick aluminium to be cut.
I have seen prices up to about 70 euros for BB OPA2604. As I got my much cheaper I was thinking if it is original. The seller had 100% score at ebay…..so I trust it.
 
How does the double balanced circuitry work

This is my half-ready double-balanced WHAMMY as preamp, mostly.
I'm using it now for almost a year.
I can say it, this was a big leap change my BoSoZ to this one regarding sound quality towards to that XP-10 which was my patient for some days.
Many thanks, Wayne!
It’s each board parallel together and one board becomes a left channel and other board becomes a right channel with only one output used per channel ? Or is the circuitry not modified and each board is used as a left and right channel with the other channel in each board remaining unused ? I know there is a version of the headphone amplifier which I have DarkVoice 336 where they use to independent circuits of the 336 combined them together in one chassis with independent volume pots on left and right channel and I think that was called the DarkVoice 337 or 339 can’t quite remember
 
wiring illuminated power switch

I'm just finishing up my project and had a question.
My chassis power cable has an AC Live fused black wire, Green wire Ground to star washer on Chassis and a white Neutral wire .
In the Build Guide it states; if you add a power switch " Switch the Live Lead " in Bold type.
The AC Live Pad is the one closer to the Middle of the PCB per the build guide notes.
I purchased a 3 terminal SPST switch with LED marked with terminals symbols Power , ACC, and Ground.

TOGGLE SWITCH BLUE ILLUMINATED ON/OFF SPST 3P SPADE TERMINALS 25A 12VDC #662051 | eBay

I don't want to damage my PCB and just want to make sure the ACC and Ground Symbol terminals on the power switch will be connected to the WHAMMY PCB AC Pads correctly. I know the fused Live wire goes to the Power terminal on the switch.
Thanks
 
Friends, thanks for the nice comments about the build!


Actually... yes! Free hand. I draw the circle, and start the hole with a 1/2" drill and then file away with a big round file that is about 3/8" in diameter. It files through the aluminum fairly quickly for two or three holes.

The straight cuts are done with a metal saw at about 1mm inside the final line, and then filed away with a very large flat file. It files a little bit harder than the round one, but still nothing that a sore wrist can't handle after the effort :) .

Had I need to do this in a production timeline, then that would be the craziest approach. But as is and only few holes and straight cuts, all is done freehand, yes. After the cut, I sand the rough edge down to achieve a smooth feel and a bit of a bevel.


Given all the above explanation, thanks PC997 for the offer, but I would not make one for selling that could cost anywhere near a good price point since I have to cut everything by hand.

Meper, yes... I was thinking about that... but the original design / case is a blind coffin that has no vents at all! Mine has a larger surface that could help with better dissipation. Do you think vents are a must?

Thanks again,
Rafa.

Hey Rafa,
I'll take it without any of the holes.. Just the blank chassis with front and rear panels. I love that chassis..
:)