A change from V5 to V6 is the plastic cover which is now ventilated and they write that they now can tolerate more heat and max. voltage has gone up from 30V to 33V. Both V5 and V6 has same current consumption so you are probably right.
Supreme Sound Opamp V6 – Burson Audio
I wonder if it is possible to pull the op amp out of the plastic cover and run them "naked" to have better heat tolerance.
Supreme Sound Opamp V6 – Burson Audio
I wonder if it is possible to pull the op amp out of the plastic cover and run them "naked" to have better heat tolerance.
Now first listening session and "burn-in" with top off.
First impression very good. I use the RC4580 opamp in the kit. I have quite sensitive headphones (AudioQuest Nighthawk) so I am happy that amp is 100% silent and no hum. The only chassis connection is via the jack connector on the front.
Now I will pickup the Burson V6 at the GLS packet shop.....
Nighthawk Carbon may be the best headphone you can get for the money. It is very detailed and very good and deep bas.
First impression very good. I use the RC4580 opamp in the kit. I have quite sensitive headphones (AudioQuest Nighthawk) so I am happy that amp is 100% silent and no hum. The only chassis connection is via the jack connector on the front.
Now I will pickup the Burson V6 at the GLS packet shop.....
Nighthawk Carbon may be the best headphone you can get for the money. It is very detailed and very good and deep bas.
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I made some temperature measurements using IR-gun with top on chassis. I had it on for 2-3 hours and lifted it off and made a quick measurement on regulators, mosfets and trafo and I could see it stabilized after 1-2 hours. I got these results:
Regulators: 66 C (heatsink a bit cooler)
Mosfets: 55 C
Trafo: 41 C
For regulators and mosfets it is a raise of about 10 C from running with top off. PCB where there are no components is about 40 C.
Chassis reach about 31 C with ambient 23 C. It is a massive alu chassis so it never gets hot to touch.
I am happy with this but amp would run a bit cooler if chassis was vented.
The Burson wait to be inserted maybe during the weekend. I got a pair! ….both dual op amps.
The left knop is a dummy. Is it connected to a rotary on/off switch but I prefer shorter wires to AC so switch not connected.
Regulators: 66 C (heatsink a bit cooler)
Mosfets: 55 C
Trafo: 41 C
For regulators and mosfets it is a raise of about 10 C from running with top off. PCB where there are no components is about 40 C.
Chassis reach about 31 C with ambient 23 C. It is a massive alu chassis so it never gets hot to touch.
I am happy with this but amp would run a bit cooler if chassis was vented.
The Burson wait to be inserted maybe during the weekend. I got a pair! ….both dual op amps.
The left knop is a dummy. Is it connected to a rotary on/off switch but I prefer shorter wires to AC so switch not connected.
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Very neatly done.
The V6s do need a bit of settling in time - also, not sure if the extra cap across the rails directly on the IC power pins is included in the pcb build but the V6s seem to respond well to them - details on the Burson site.
Yes, perhaps a row of holes in the bottom plate under the pcb and another on the top plate towards the sides to ensure a 'cross-flow' of cooling air even though your internal temps seem okay.
A small point, and probably superfluous to the build, but you could mount the pot directly over the pcb board using a bracket (2 X L brackets?) and a flexible shaft from the front knob …
Where did you get the nice case?
The V6s do need a bit of settling in time - also, not sure if the extra cap across the rails directly on the IC power pins is included in the pcb build but the V6s seem to respond well to them - details on the Burson site.
Yes, perhaps a row of holes in the bottom plate under the pcb and another on the top plate towards the sides to ensure a 'cross-flow' of cooling air even though your internal temps seem okay.
A small point, and probably superfluous to the build, but you could mount the pot directly over the pcb board using a bracket (2 X L brackets?) and a flexible shaft from the front knob …
Where did you get the nice case?
Ok....with flexible wires.....have not seem any of those. The long wires from pot to pcb seems not to introduce noise I can hear in the headphones. But nice idea using a flexible wire. I have some sets with a straight extension rod which does not fit well for this pcb and chassis.
The two caps for the rails for op amp is on pcb. The supply for op amp is kind of "isolated" as they go via serial resistors from the "main" supply.
Another Whammy builder used this chassis and I asked same question. It is from ebay…..think from China.....not expensive as I remember. At that time it was the last from that seller. On front is written "Breeze Audio".
I look forward to try out the Burson. Maybe I should listen a bit to the kit opamp to see if I can hear a difference when using Burson.
The two caps for the rails for op amp is on pcb. The supply for op amp is kind of "isolated" as they go via serial resistors from the "main" supply.
Another Whammy builder used this chassis and I asked same question. It is from ebay…..think from China.....not expensive as I remember. At that time it was the last from that seller. On front is written "Breeze Audio".
I look forward to try out the Burson. Maybe I should listen a bit to the kit opamp to see if I can hear a difference when using Burson.
You can still get them if you search for "BZ3306E" on ebay like this (price has raised 4 Euros):
NEW arrive CNC aluminum chassis for DAC/headphone /preamp BZ3306E | eBay
NEW arrive CNC aluminum chassis for DAC/headphone /preamp BZ3306E | eBay
Thank you. I tried to make the layout of wires so I got it as silent as possible. The long wires from PCB to POT is on the "silent" side of amp. And it shows to be very silent in real use.
Speaking of which, I have noticed humming only on the right channel when plugged into a modified sine wave.
I normally never do that, only when the power is out and my PC is powered by the UPS, so I didn't give it much thought, but now I wonder if my right channel input wire is too close to the transformer, which is why it is picking up on the 'aliasing noise' of that dirty sine wave going through the transformer.
Perhaps I should reroute the wires to steer clear.
I normally never do that, only when the power is out and my PC is powered by the UPS, so I didn't give it much thought, but now I wonder if my right channel input wire is too close to the transformer, which is why it is picking up on the 'aliasing noise' of that dirty sine wave going through the transformer.
Perhaps I should reroute the wires to steer clear.
I have now installed the Burson V6 classic. Something was a bit strange. I got two. Installed first one and noticed that current consumption was double as specified (2.7V over 100R) which is 27mA and data sheet says 14mA for Dual op amp.
How do you read this data sheet?
Supreme Sound Opamp V6 – Burson Audio
Then I noticed that offset was stable in one channel and quite high in other channel and drifting.
I hooked it up and only music in one channel. Then I thought…...ok that was the reason for double up in current…..one of the dual op amps is defective. Then I went back to normal op amp and everything worked. After that I tried with 2nd V6 Classic. Still about 27 mA current consumption but offset was low and stable (around 10mV in both channels). I hooked it up and nice music in stereo.
If current consumption is correct then there was no need to change 47.5R to 100R as I now has -+14.1V.....so well inside the safe zone.
Interesting if other using Burson V6 if they could measure voltage drop over R35/R36 to confirm is current consumption is about 27mA.
V6 comes with a socket attached. I removed that as this gives a more stable setup and lower profile.
The socket is same kind as I use in Whammy. The usual with round holes. I noticed that after V6 has been in the tension for a normal op amp is much less so I don't think these sockets are good for op amp rolling. The normal spring loaded may be better (in fact such a type was included in the kit.....but I thought the other was a higher quality).
How do you read this data sheet?
Supreme Sound Opamp V6 – Burson Audio
Then I noticed that offset was stable in one channel and quite high in other channel and drifting.
I hooked it up and only music in one channel. Then I thought…...ok that was the reason for double up in current…..one of the dual op amps is defective. Then I went back to normal op amp and everything worked. After that I tried with 2nd V6 Classic. Still about 27 mA current consumption but offset was low and stable (around 10mV in both channels). I hooked it up and nice music in stereo.
If current consumption is correct then there was no need to change 47.5R to 100R as I now has -+14.1V.....so well inside the safe zone.
Interesting if other using Burson V6 if they could measure voltage drop over R35/R36 to confirm is current consumption is about 27mA.
V6 comes with a socket attached. I removed that as this gives a more stable setup and lower profile.
The socket is same kind as I use in Whammy. The usual with round holes. I noticed that after V6 has been in the tension for a normal op amp is much less so I don't think these sockets are good for op amp rolling. The normal spring loaded may be better (in fact such a type was included in the kit.....but I thought the other was a higher quality).
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I found a cheap stereo jack to 2xRCA cable so I could test Whammy with Burson V6 Classic as preamp with M2X. Sound is very nice. This type of converter cable seems to work very well. If cable was a DIY I could have put 50 ohm resistors in RCAs as a kind of protection I assume it is. I may build a cable with quality connectors (I think if these standard interconnects that comes with HiFi equipment had quality connectors…..it would be all we need….).
I really mis a long cable for my headphones. I am not a frequent user of headphones but I may be if headphones would work good with a long cable so I could sit in the "soft furnitures" instead on the floor in front of the amp using standard 1m headphone cable……
Interesting so good amp works as preamp…..top plate put on chassis....and it stays as is....no need for op amp rolling.....
I really mis a long cable for my headphones. I am not a frequent user of headphones but I may be if headphones would work good with a long cable so I could sit in the "soft furnitures" instead on the floor in front of the amp using standard 1m headphone cable……
Interesting so good amp works as preamp…..top plate put on chassis....and it stays as is....no need for op amp rolling.....
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I'm testing V6 Classics in my Whammy.
The voltage drop is 1.26V on 47Ohm. That's 27mA in my arithmetics.
The offset is 6 and 10mV.
And yes, no more opamp rolling in this amp for me!
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Very good to know that data sheet seems to be wrong regarding current consumption. I have written to Burson and asked if they can confirm 27mA (the current draw at opamp output should be minimal).
So you are running V6 at approx. 16.8 - 1.3 = +-15.5V.
I installed 100 ohm resistors to be sure I was very safe with 14 mA pr. data sheet. I let it be as it works fine with -+14.2V.
So you are running V6 at approx. 16.8 - 1.3 = +-15.5V.
I installed 100 ohm resistors to be sure I was very safe with 14 mA pr. data sheet. I let it be as it works fine with -+14.2V.