"WHAMMY" Pass DIY headphone amp guide

Very impressive and thorough. Did you track how much the premium version added to cost or did you not want to know?

I’ve tried to do a semi-rough difference in cost calculation based on what I could figure out as the kit parts that I swapped out for “premium” versions.

1) Glassware Audio’s “House GND” ground isolation board/kit: House GND Kit - $9.95 (1)

2) SparkOS discrete, low-noise regulators: Sparkos Labs, Inc. audio power supply discrete voltage regulators (one SS7815 and one SS7915) - 47.00 each (note I bought these at %15 off as he had a sale going). The stock ones are https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...=/ha2pyFaduj3LqfbGA7x66QboUvVoNfvQqJMkUKO/T8= and about $.57/each (you need a 7815 and a 7915). Difference here is $47*2-1 ~= $102.95.

3) Burson Classic 6 OpAmp (Burson Audio V6 Discrete Opamp – diyAudio Store) $70 each.
Texas Instruments RC4580 op amp (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/RC4580IP?qs=sSOk4GDDv7yJoSozpf3%2Brw==) $.58.
$70-.$.58 ~= $69.

3) UXCEL M4 rubber isolators for the main board for some vibration isolation: uxcell M4 Male Female Rubber Mounts, Vibration Isolators, Shock Absorber 10mm x 10mm Black 8pcs: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific -$12.39 for a pack of 8, 1 package needed. Standard stand-offs are about $.50/each * 6 needed for the project which is about $3.

4) I used 2 rubber washers under the transformer to help dampen mechanical vibrations there. I bought these at HD. Everbilt Neoprene Washer (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-in-x-2-in-Black-Neoprene-Washer-815878/204276446) $1.23 * 2 (I used two).

5) Solen 1 uF 700V Silver Sound MKP Film Caps for the input coupling caps (C1/C2). (Solen 1.0uF 700V Silver Sound MKP Silver Metallized Polypropylene Film Crossover Capacitor) $15/each * 2. Stock caps look like these (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/ECW-FE2W105JA?qs=FCwj0qo8zF%2Bmbv2kO1EgCw==) which are about $.43/each * 2.

$30 - $2 ~= $28.

6) GlassWare Select-5 5-input switch/breakout board: Select-5 Signal Selector Switch (https://glass-ware.stores.yahoo.net/select5.html) $15.

7) blue front panel knobs from TESI Switch: Amazon.com: Tesi Solid Aluminum Replacement Knob Set for Line 6 Helix Floor and Rack (Hot Pink): Musical Instruments. $44. I don’t know where the stock knob is gotten from but I’ve seen similar ones on AMZN in the $5 department. Note you need two: one for volume, and one for the selector.

8) blue front LED uses a power supply breakout board from Gareth (Gaz213) that he helped me locate off the main supply. Board was about $5 each. LEDs all basically cost the same so no savings for a blue one.

9) DiyAudioStore Alps potentiometer breakout board (https://diyaudiostore.com/collections/misc-pcbs/products/rk27-breakout-pcb) These are $5/each and well worth it!

10) Neutric D-style RCA i/o connectors (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...bJzGI4/4l%2B6KFs6UysXwkcqbNL5yPvZazi2bt7bvA==) $4.45 each. I used 6. The stock RCA connectors are similar to these (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...EpiMZZMvlX3nhDDO4ANv5m%2BWbGXRyC%2BK9eLKHxrE=) which are $1.72 each.

($4.45 - $1.72 ) * 6 -> $2.73 * 6 ~= $16.38.

11) Nichicon Audio KA(M) and KG(M) caps for the power supply (50V filter caps in the supply) and elsewhere. For the 22uFs I used the Muse types (bright green).

Nichicon Muse 22uF 25V caps (Mouser https://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine?Keyword=ues1e220mem ) 6 * $.47. The stock caps are Elna Simlic II’s which are about $.30/each (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Elna/RFS-25V220ME35?qs=HV/SjD3ivR/i1/x/n517CQ==)

Roughly an additional $3.

Nichicon 220uF 50V UKAs (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...By/QjvSYUSQw7FpY4sfr5M3jpd0WA2PRAGT3gt9oQqZYh) are about $.78/each. The stock ones appear to be Kemet (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...GAEpiMZZMukHu%2BjC5l7Yb6Zt8jw0u8hF7hWMHHNZIY=) which are about $.50/each. There are 6 of these so we get about $.25 * 6 = $1.50.

Nichicon 3300uF 50V (power supply filter caps) (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...QSeJD/%2By37V3W/9CFiNzaZM3IwE4Xd8NxmwG6PceA==) which are about $2.87 each (you need 6). The stock are FC Series Panasonics (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...05zz2/Ww%2BaoTveFxTVmBxbre7eKLdBxxO2NKs/3/sQ=) and those are $1.78/each. Here we add about a dollar, so multiply by 6 and we get $6.

13) WIMA MKS 2 bypass caps everywhere except in the power supply. The ones that come with the kit appear to be these (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...X1Z5YPvFSK3K1y9%2Bcpu20pGq38%2BlcyTTYxElbWA==) which are $1.98/each. The Wimas found here (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...cNBgjYauIqbFtu5%2B2CdSw%2BcGgUxAqoh2KPNFUlA==) are about $.30/each. There are 4

The bypass caps (2 optional in the build so lets actually call it 2), so here we actually save about $1.68 * 2 !


This is the rough sum of the additional costs to what I built from the kit version:

$102.95 + $69 + 3 + $2.50 + $28 + $15 + $44 + $5 + $16.38 + 3 + $1.50 + $6 - $3.36 = $299.69. The diyaudio kit costs $189 excluding the chassis which from where I sit, using it as-is is a freakin awesome deal even using the stock TI OpAmp. Beyond that its largely changing the sonic character of the preamp much in a way that is subjective. For me adding one of the discrete OpAmps for about $70 and $100 for the discrete regs gets you into top-shelf hi-fi audio land.

With that in mind, we should thank Jim/6L6 and the diyaudiostore folks for putting together such an awesome kit from Wayne’s initial design/build at such a reasonable price every time we listen to this thing.

Now back to listening to some really amazing music with my Whammy 2!

—Tom
 
Very impressive and thorough. Did you track how much the premium version added to cost or did you not want to know?

Looking for a part number for a blue led (mouser or digi-key) to use like mark johnson used...off of trafo secondaries....also what value of limiting resistor should be used?

Thanks
Alex

I used these blue LEDs:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...moCkIWNKZPhms%2BJcXfkLsoIev9TD00Xpn/Rv9/mCg==

I used a 1k in series with a 200k trim pot (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...ronics/67YR200KLF?qs=gQBTb7UQo2JGOjeea5fZCQ==)

Noting that I am using a diode/cap in front of it as it is right off the secondary tap of the transformer.

One easy way to figure out what the R value is, is to build a small test rig where you have a small cap + 1N4004/7 diode ahead of the resistor/trim pot/diode that lets you connect a bench DC supply that you can set to your full project's supply but in a controlled way. This lets you dial in the brightness you want/etc... if you don't want the user to set this.

I built my "test rig" using the nifty little board that Gaz2613 created (its shown in my build pix earlier). Its basically wired up with a barrier connector on both the input and outputs so I can connect my bench supply to the input, and the LED in question to the output with the trimmer pot set to its min. Then I can set things exactly how I want them and then go build that into the project.
 

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@thomasnadeau I was trying to assess cost benefit of doing more post adding a Burson V-6 Vivid. As you say, that alone is a big jump. If(when?) I build another WHAMMY your experience with upgrading as you reported it and the detailed list are going to be really helpful. Thanks.
 
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Jut tried several more op amps in the Whammy. OPA 2134, LM833, AD 746. I had a few old New Japan Radio 2068's these were used in the infamous O2 headphone's gain stage.

Its a dual 8 pin dip 18 volts....

So we pop'd it in and its a great choice for the Whammy with my headphones, Focal Clears and HEDD headphones...wonderful bass and very neutral sound...

Highly recommended!! But be careful these are really expensive!!

60 cents each!!!

Buyer Beware

Alex
:>)
 
Hahaha this is so great.
I'm having way too much fun swapping Op amps around.

The more I listen to the different ones I have, the more I discover facets of their sound signature.
I got to say, once you pass the first negative impression of lack of dynamics/edge on the V6 Classic; they are a joy to listen to for long sessions.

Some liked the OPA1612, I'll maybe try it too.
OPA1642 was great for the price.
Then a bit more expensive, I liked OPA2107 best among all IC Op Amps tested.

Any idea what to try more in the discrete type? I see Sonic Imagery 994Enh? SS3602?
I'm looking for something more dynamic than the Classic, but less colored, and avoid the lightly over agressive, glared treble of the Vivid.
 
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Hi folks. I recently received some Burson V6 Classic OpAmps provided to me by Burson for the purposes of reviewing them in the Whammy. I want to thank the wonderful folks at Burson for being interested in and supporting the DIY Audio Community.

Equipment Used:
Whammy "premium" build (see earlier in this thread for a detailed description). I used the Burson Classic V6 OpAmp of course. I used a SMSL M8 Mini-DAC set at 192k/24bit input, powered by a custom linear, regulated PS that I built. I used AKG K712 Pro headphones that measure out at around 60 Ohms.

I used the Whammy as a preamp driving 2 Amp Camp 1.8s run as monoblocks powered by 24VDC linear supplies I built for them. These were driving a pair of custom MTMs I made using Vifa drivers, and 12db/octave crossovers.

You can find a pictures the setup attached below. Apologies for the rotated image - No matter how I rotated the image, the image uploader insisted on rotating the image that way.

Material used for the review:

Mellancamp, Rough Harvest, Human Wheels. Spotify.
Close mic-ed. Very punchy/dynamic. Excellent tonal balance. Highs/lows pleasant. Male and female voices neutral. Spacial separation excellent but presentation up front. Closely mic-ed instruments very present. Very high male vocals "Ss" a tad harsh but not offensive by any means.

ZZ Top, Tres Hombres (expanded/remaster 2006), La Grange. Spotify. Very good imaging and dynamics of guitar. Opening bars have nice close mic-ed vocals. Other subtitles clearly like rim taps on drums. Multiple rhythm guitars clearly discernible with lead in the middle. Center presentation up close. Maybe a tad harsh on high guitar notes.

Dream Theater, Falling Into Infinity (96k/24bit source.), Hell's Kitchen/Lines In The Sand. Awesome dynamics and detail. Solid/flat bass. Top end balanced. Pleasing presentation. Fantastic imaging. Presentation wider but still "up close". Tonal balance excellent. Most of the non-TI monolithic opAmps I've tried on this song make it sound "messy". This clearly separates the instruments and is a treat to listen to - as if I were listening to the studio master. Bass harmonics at the end of Lines In The Sand (around minute 11) are clear.

Dream Theater, Greatest Hits (and 21 other pretty cool songs) 96k/24bit source, Lifting Shadows Off A Dream. Similar to the above - fantastic separation, detail and balance. Introduction is "heavy" in that the bass is solid down. Clear imaging. Guitar distortion is clearly that of a Mesa. Male vocals are clear, not harsh or "over-bassed" or "smeared" which many monolithic OpAmps did. Similarly with cymbals. They were not harsh at all and very realistic. As with the previous 2 tunes, this is a good test of just how clearly resolving the Whammy can be with a discrete OpAmp installed.

Diana Krall, Turn Up The Quiet, Like Someone In Love
Excellent female vocals but a touch of harshness on "ssss" on S phrases. Very present and up front. Balanced. Can clearly resolve lots of detail of her voice including taking a breath between phrases. Decay of reverb very realistic.

Jessie Cook, Free Fall, Incantation. Super low low bass. Guitar well balanced. Very good dynamics and spacial imagining. Lots of "air" around the instruments. Decay of reverb very realistic.

Bruce Hornsby, Solo Concerts, Mandolin Rain. Well-balanced piano up and down the keyboard. Excellent dynamics and "air". Male vocals closely mic-ed. Can clearly resolve lots of detail.

Gordon Goodwin's Big Phat Band, The Gordian Knot, T.O.P. Adjacent. Fantastic dynamics and imaging. Good instrument placement - pin point imaging but presentation is "close up".


Conclusions:

General comments: The presentation is much more focused than the SparkOS I have in the stock/kit Whammy, especially when using headphones. Center presentation up close compared to other OpAmps. Generally very pleasing presentation. I had similar results to the headphones when using the Whammy as a preamp albeit the inevitable bass roll off. Vocals and top end were still excellent. Imagining and dynamics were fantastic, exciting and engaging even at moderate listening levels.

The songs I chose provide a good test of just how clearly resolving the Whammy can be with a discrete OpAmp installed. Female vocals, low bass and dynamics are things monolithics have a hard time with, and the Burson Classic excelled at them. Male vocals and dynamics are other things that can suffer. I found the experience to be very pleasing. I was never fatigued or had to pause listening.

In conclusion, the Burson Vivid V6 is an excellent OpAmp. It has a certain "up front" or "close" presentation that some might or might not prefer. At this level, and in the top-notch Whammy, it is a matter of taste compared to the other monoliths that are readily available. I'd definitely recommend this to someone who is interested in this sort of presentation.

I will be reviewing the V65 Vivid in about a month's time, and will try to carefully compare the two together as well as with the SparkOS dual discrete.

Cheers!

--Tom
 

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Burson V6 Classic vs. V6 Vivid

Thanks to Burson for providing V6 Classic Duals.

Summary? I like V6 Classic over V6 Vivid, in this application.

I changed my testing slightly from post 2896 . A couple of different songs. Source volume from the phone is full.

These stayed the same:
Input: Samsung Galaxy S9 plus
Headphones: Sony MDR-7506
No changes to WHAMMY (18V transformer, naked 15V regulators)

The goal is to pick between V6 Classic and the earlier samples of V6 Vivid. Again, I listened to both the op-amps back to back. No instrumentation.

Songs:
(1) Track 1 Unaccompanied Cello Suite No. 1 in G Major, BWV 1007: I. Prélude from Six Evolutions - Bach: Cello Suites, Yo-Yo Ma (2018)
(2) Track 4 The Four Seasons, Violin Concerto in F Minor, Op. 8 No. 4, RV 297 "Winter": II. Largo from Appassionato, Yo-Yo Ma (2007)
(3) and (4) Fragile and Be Still My Beating Heart, Tracks 9 and 6 from Fields of Gold: The Best of Sting 1984–1994 (1993-1994)
(5) Sugar, Track 6 from Free Life, Dan Wilson (2007)
(6) Lies, Track 6 from After Forever, Kasper Bjørke (2014)
(7) You're Getting to Be a Habit with Me, Track 8 from Love Scenes, Diana Krall (1997)
(8) and (9) Breakable and The Way I Am, Tracks 3 and 5 from Girls and Boys, Ingrid Michaelson (2006)

Vivid:
Fragile: Somewhat fatiguing
Be Still My Beating Heart: The supporting chorus was clear
Sugar: Midrange was better than high frequencies (which sounded a little recessed)
Good supporting vocals

Classic:
Fragile: Chorus sounded good
Be Still My Beating Heart: The Guitar sounded nicer than the chorus. Delicate high hats
Sugar: Even better Midrange instruments. Voices had more emotion.
Lies: More complex presentation of instruments
Breakable: The hand drum in the left channel was fantastic. Beautiful lower bass.

Vivid made instrument separation good. Classic let me distinguish between the different notes made by those instruments.
With the Classic, I started to enjoy the music.

I'll keep the Classic in my Whammy.
 

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I’ve tried to do a semi-rough difference in cost calculation based on what I could figure out as the kit parts that I swapped out for “premium” versions.

1) Glassware Audio’s “House GND” ground isolation board/kit: House GND Kit - $9.95 (1)

2) SparkOS discrete, low-noise regulators: Sparkos Labs, Inc. audio power supply discrete voltage regulators (one SS7815 and one SS7915) - 47.00 each (note I bought these at %15 off as he had a sale going). The stock ones are https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...=/ha2pyFaduj3LqfbGA7x66QboUvVoNfvQqJMkUKO/T8= and about $.57/each (you need a 7815 and a 7915). Difference here is $47*2-1 ~= $102.95.

3) Burson Classic 6 OpAmp (Burson Audio V6 Discrete Opamp – diyAudio Store) $70 each.
Texas Instruments RC4580 op amp (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/RC4580IP?qs=sSOk4GDDv7yJoSozpf3%2Brw==) $.58.
$70-.$.58 ~= $69.

3) UXCEL M4 rubber isolators for the main board for some vibration isolation: uxcell M4 Male Female Rubber Mounts, Vibration Isolators, Shock Absorber 10mm x 10mm Black 8pcs: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific -$12.39 for a pack of 8, 1 package needed. Standard stand-offs are about $.50/each * 6 needed for the project which is about $3.

4) I used 2 rubber washers under the transformer to help dampen mechanical vibrations there. I bought these at HD. Everbilt Neoprene Washer (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-in-x-2-in-Black-Neoprene-Washer-815878/204276446) $1.23 * 2 (I used two).

5) Solen 1 uF 700V Silver Sound MKP Film Caps for the input coupling caps (C1/C2). (Solen 1.0uF 700V Silver Sound MKP Silver Metallized Polypropylene Film Crossover Capacitor) $15/each * 2. Stock caps look like these (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/ECW-FE2W105JA?qs=FCwj0qo8zF%2Bmbv2kO1EgCw==) which are about $.43/each * 2.

$30 - $2 ~= $28.

6) GlassWare Select-5 5-input switch/breakout board: Select-5 Signal Selector Switch (https://glass-ware.stores.yahoo.net/select5.html) $15.

7) blue front panel knobs from TESI Switch: Amazon.com: Tesi Solid Aluminum Replacement Knob Set for Line 6 Helix Floor and Rack (Hot Pink): Musical Instruments. $44. I don’t know where the stock knob is gotten from but I’ve seen similar ones on AMZN in the $5 department. Note you need two: one for volume, and one for the selector.

8) blue front LED uses a power supply breakout board from Gareth (Gaz213) that he helped me locate off the main supply. Board was about $5 each. LEDs all basically cost the same so no savings for a blue one.

9) DiyAudioStore Alps potentiometer breakout board (https://diyaudiostore.com/collections/misc-pcbs/products/rk27-breakout-pcb) These are $5/each and well worth it!

10) Neutric D-style RCA i/o connectors (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...bJzGI4/4l%2B6KFs6UysXwkcqbNL5yPvZazi2bt7bvA==) $4.45 each. I used 6. The stock RCA connectors are similar to these (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...EpiMZZMvlX3nhDDO4ANv5m%2BWbGXRyC%2BK9eLKHxrE=) which are $1.72 each.

($4.45 - $1.72 ) * 6 -> $2.73 * 6 ~= $16.38.

11) Nichicon Audio KA(M) and KG(M) caps for the power supply (50V filter caps in the supply) and elsewhere. For the 22uFs I used the Muse types (bright green).

Nichicon Muse 22uF 25V caps (Mouser https://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine?Keyword=ues1e220mem ) 6 * $.47. The stock caps are Elna Simlic II’s which are about $.30/each (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Elna/RFS-25V220ME35?qs=HV/SjD3ivR/i1/x/n517CQ==)

Roughly an additional $3.

Nichicon 220uF 50V UKAs (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...By/QjvSYUSQw7FpY4sfr5M3jpd0WA2PRAGT3gt9oQqZYh) are about $.78/each. The stock ones appear to be Kemet (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...GAEpiMZZMukHu%2BjC5l7Yb6Zt8jw0u8hF7hWMHHNZIY=) which are about $.50/each. There are 6 of these so we get about $.25 * 6 = $1.50.

Nichicon 3300uF 50V (power supply filter caps) (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...QSeJD/%2By37V3W/9CFiNzaZM3IwE4Xd8NxmwG6PceA==) which are about $2.87 each (you need 6). The stock are FC Series Panasonics (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...05zz2/Ww%2BaoTveFxTVmBxbre7eKLdBxxO2NKs/3/sQ=) and those are $1.78/each. Here we add about a dollar, so multiply by 6 and we get $6.

13) WIMA MKS 2 bypass caps everywhere except in the power supply. The ones that come with the kit appear to be these (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...X1Z5YPvFSK3K1y9%2Bcpu20pGq38%2BlcyTTYxElbWA==) which are $1.98/each. The Wimas found here (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...cNBgjYauIqbFtu5%2B2CdSw%2BcGgUxAqoh2KPNFUlA==) are about $.30/each. There are 4

The bypass caps (2 optional in the build so lets actually call it 2), so here we actually save about $1.68 * 2 !


This is the rough sum of the additional costs to what I built from the kit version:

$102.95 + $69 + 3 + $2.50 + $28 + $15 + $44 + $5 + $16.38 + 3 + $1.50 + $6 - $3.36 = $299.69. The diyaudio kit costs $189 excluding the chassis which from where I sit, using it as-is is a freakin awesome deal even using the stock TI OpAmp. Beyond that its largely changing the sonic character of the preamp much in a way that is subjective. For me adding one of the discrete OpAmps for about $70 and $100 for the discrete regs gets you into top-shelf hi-fi audio land.

With that in mind, we should thank Jim/6L6 and the diyaudiostore folks for putting together such an awesome kit from Wayne’s initial design/build at such a reasonable price every time we listen to this thing.

Now back to listening to some really amazing music with my Whammy 2!

—Tom


A few folks have asked me to provide detailed pictures of my second Whammy to see how I fit the taller Burson OpAmps inside, so I am posting some follow-up pictures here. Two specific things I did to make the Burson's fit which also applies to the SparkOS OpAmp too:

1) make sure the headphone input jack is positioned higher than the max height of the opamp.

2) make sure the caps around the DIP8 connection point has plenty of area around it. You see I had to bend back the Nichicon caps around it, and I made the leads a tiny bit longer to allow for this.

One limiting factor I found is that in the "kit" build if you mount the Alps pot to the board you are pretty tight on space in the front because the board is right up against the front panel and that can interfere too. This is why I ended up using the next sized up Galaxy chassis. Wayne was right in the original article that using the Hammond or smaller Galaxy will be a challenge and for me it was. I hope these tips help others get things situated in a way that works.

--Tom
 

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Issue with testing the PSU

Hello everybody,

I need some help to complete my Whammy build, it's my first DIY amp and I'm struggling a little.

After soldering every component of the PSU, I tried to measure voltage as explained in the build guide but my readings are +17V and - 32V.

The LED on D6 doesn't light up, I tried desoldering it because I thought its polarity was inverted but I ended up breaking one of its pin so I'll order a new one.
I tested every resistor no error, every diodes (no reading on D7), I can't read the voltage regulator 7915CT while I get 1V on 7815.

Thank you in advance
 
Cree Schottky and HLMP-6000 leds

Hi guys,

Just finished and tested the power supply section with a few mods from stock.

- Cree Schottky in place of standard 1N4004 on the rectifier section
- HLMP6000 led instead of standard red led on regulators

Voltages measured fine on the test (+16.5V, -16.6V). The reasoning behind the choice of the HLMP6000 red led was that the forward voltage appeared to be consistently 0.15-0.20V lower than the standard red led.

The absence of 'magic smoke' and 'no-no sparkles' marked the completion of stage one build and testing.

If anyone sees anything amiss here, please let me know.

Cheers
Poly
 
Hi,

Where is everyone getting PCBs/kits for the WHAMMY?

I'm really keen to build one but they have been out of stock at DIYAudio since May 2020. I was told expected delivery was Sept/Oct 2020 so have been patiently waiting. I enquired again this week to get an update on ETA and was told stock was 3-4 months away!

I am signed up for notification on their store and am pretty sure I didn't miss the re-stock??

Cheers,
Jeremy
 
Hi,

Where is everyone getting PCBs/kits for the WHAMMY?

I'm really keen to build one but they have been out of stock at DIYAudio since May 2020. I was told expected delivery was Sept/Oct 2020 so have been patiently waiting. I enquired again this week to get an update on ETA and was told stock was 3-4 months away!

I am signed up for notification on their store and am pretty sure I didn't miss the re-stock??

Cheers,
Jeremy

Hey Jeremy,

I bought the PCB directly on the DIYaudio store.
For most parts I followed the bill of material on page 1 of the thread and ordered everything from Mouser and Digikey. Be careful though, wires, iec and rca sockets are not included in the BoM.
 
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Would the opamps loading be affected if i change the 1k/100k resistors at its input to 72k/22k ohm? AD797 in my whammy stabalizes only at gain of 6 and above and at that high gain its a hair trigger affair to turn the volume knob. And id rather attenuate after the pot and the input cap in order to reduce all the noise associated with them
 
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Thanks.

This whole time I have thought the PCBs were out of stock but in fact they are not, for some reason my browser was showing the "notify me when restocked" button".

Their customer service has been very helpful though and I have ordered some PCBs.

Working on my mouser/digikey BOMS now.

Hey Jeremy,

I bought the PCB directly on the DIYaudio store.
For most parts I followed the bill of material on page 1 of the thread and ordered everything from Mouser and Digikey. Be careful though, wires, iec and rca sockets are not included in the BoM.