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"WHAMMY" Pass DIY headphone amp guide
"WHAMMY" Pass DIY headphone amp guide
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Old 28th April 2018, 07:56 PM   #91
esgigt is offline esgigt  Netherlands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wayne View Post
The 220 uF 50 Volt could all be 25 Volt parts the 50V are in stock here. The gate resistors could be from 100-1000 Ohms and be fine I am doubtful it would be audible.
Wayne, thanks for the helpful answer
I'm not very accustomed to the use of FET's, more BJT's, so that's why I'm asking.
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Old 28th April 2018, 09:34 PM   #92
HiGHFLYiN9s is offline HiGHFLYiN9s  United States
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Originally Posted by 6L6 View Post
Interested to finding out if the Bursons work. Keep us posted.
Will do, I have an email into Dennis @ Burson which will hopefully get answered by Monday.

Have a few more pics attached. Chassis is from my friend Horace at IAG DIY Tube Audio Products. You can find his chassis selection at http://stores.ebay.com/iagdiytubeaudioproducts/

...I've been using his chassis for many years. Great product, hand-made in the USA.

The front panel has a four pin as most of my headphones are wired that way, so it saves me from using an adapter.

Wiring is scraps of Cardas I had in my wire bin, 4x24, 2x24 and 2x21 and some 24AWG. Pot is Audionote. IEC filter is Furutech, picked a few up when they were discontinued for a nice price. RCAs are Cardas. Most of the caps in the audio section are SILMIC II. I know Wayne mentioned in the video they aren't as reliable lately, but they sound good... so hopefully they'll be okay for a while. Resistors are mostly Koa Speers 2W with some Vishays here and there. Input coupling are vintage 100V Sprague PIOs. PSU caps are Nichicon "For Audio"... for whatever that's good for Everything else is from the BOM. If you use the same parts you should end up with a warmer sounding amp... although the op-amp will probably make more difference than all those other items.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg WHAMMY internal front headphone amp.jpg (666.1 KB, 1574 views)
File Type: jpg WHAMMY internal rear headphone amp.jpg (605.4 KB, 1561 views)
File Type: jpg WHAMMY bottom DIY headphone amp.jpg (858.1 KB, 1434 views)
File Type: jpg WHAMMY DIY front headphone amp.jpg (563.2 KB, 1389 views)
File Type: jpg WHAMMY DIY rear headphone amp.jpg (436.8 KB, 1364 views)
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Last edited by HiGHFLYiN9s; 28th April 2018 at 09:46 PM.
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Old 28th April 2018, 11:10 PM   #93
HiGHFLYiN9s is offline HiGHFLYiN9s  United States
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I guess it's too late to edit the last message, but for the LED on the front, just in case anyone needs one, I ran off the 22V AC secondary and used a couple of spare parts to rectify/protect the LED. D1 can be any of the 1N400X series ... I happened to have a UF4004 laying around. There's probably easier ways of doing this but I'm used to tube amps where I just pull the AC off one of the heaters. The schematic is modified from a Classic Valve design.
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File Type: jpg LED.jpg (23.6 KB, 528 views)
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Old 29th April 2018, 05:09 AM   #94
moe29 is offline moe29  United States
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just a quick shot with the phone. finished just now. will listen to tomorrow morning Fun build!!!
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Old 29th April 2018, 05:21 AM   #95
HiGHFLYiN9s is offline HiGHFLYiN9s  United States
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Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 29th April 2018, 09:43 AM   #96
esgigt is offline esgigt  Netherlands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HiGHFLYiN9s View Post
I guess it's too late to edit the last message, but for the LED on the front, just in case anyone needs one, I ran off the 22V AC secondary and used a couple of spare parts to rectify/protect the LED. D1 can be any of the 1N400X series ... I happened to have a UF4004 laying around. There's probably easier ways of doing this but I'm used to tube amps where I just pull the AC off one of the heaters. The schematic is modified from a Classic Valve design.
At that resistor value, the LED must be almost blinding....
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Old 29th April 2018, 05:05 PM   #97
HiGHFLYiN9s is offline HiGHFLYiN9s  United States
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Originally Posted by esgigt View Post
At that resistor value, the LED must be almost blinding....
Without any bright tubes on top I like to know itís on
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Old 30th April 2018, 08:55 AM   #98
promitheus is offline promitheus  Europe
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Very nice amps you guys.
I can't wait to start building mine.
Which opamp are you guys using?
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Old 30th April 2018, 12:59 PM   #99
dewdrop is offline dewdrop  Singapore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HiGHFLYiN9s View Post
Will do, I have an email into Dennis @ Burson which will hopefully get answered by Monday.

Have a few more pics attached. Chassis is from my friend Horace at IAG DIY Tube Audio Products. You can find his chassis selection at http://stores.ebay.com/iagdiytubeaudioproducts/

...I've been using his chassis for many years. Great product, hand-made in the USA.

The front panel has a four pin as most of my headphones are wired that way, so it saves me from using an adapter.

Wiring is scraps of Cardas I had in my wire bin, 4x24, 2x24 and 2x21 and some 24AWG. Pot is Audionote. IEC filter is Furutech, picked a few up when they were discontinued for a nice price. RCAs are Cardas. Most of the caps in the audio section are SILMIC II. I know Wayne mentioned in the video they aren't as reliable lately, but they sound good... so hopefully they'll be okay for a while. Resistors are mostly Koa Speers 2W with some Vishays here and there. Input coupling are vintage 100V Sprague PIOs. PSU caps are Nichicon "For Audio"... for whatever that's good for Everything else is from the BOM. If you use the same parts you should end up with a warmer sounding amp... although the op-amp will probably make more difference than all those other items.


Beautiful and thanks for sharing the components used, it helps a lot
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Old 30th April 2018, 11:33 PM   #100
moe29 is offline moe29  United States
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I used CAT5 wire for the hookup wire...

Any strong feelings towards its use? I figure solid copper can't be that bad, at such small runs.

Also used a Pansonic 0.1ĶF Film Capacitor 250V Polyester, Metallized Radial between the
chasis ground point and the input RCAs... just a part i had used in other power supply
Digi-key # ECQ-U2A104MV
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