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Old 10th November 2017, 06:37 PM   #11
woody is offline woody
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Glovanni you may want to refer back to the SOZ article. Nelson designed it to idle at 40ma which is obtained by having 4v across R108 and that will make the drain set at 20V not 30V.
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Old 13th November 2017, 10:57 AM   #12
Giovanni malluzzo is offline Giovanni malluzzo
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Default Aleph 5 diy

Hi mr pass, I made an aleph 5, I ask you kindly if you could suggest me a proper diet. There are many schemes on the internet but I do not know what to use. I thank you in advance and I do my best compliments. If anyone beyond Mr Pass wants to suggest, I'm grateful
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Old 13th November 2017, 07:32 PM   #13
Nelson Pass is offline Nelson Pass  United States
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Pellegrino and lemon with chocolate/peanut butter protein bars.

Gets me through the day until it's time for Cabernet and Tortilla chips.

Or maybe you meant something else by diet?
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Old 13th November 2017, 10:21 PM   #14
wdecho is offline wdecho  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Giovanni malluzzo View Post
Hi mr pass, I made an aleph 5, I ask you kindly if you could suggest me a proper diet. There are many schemes on the internet but I do not know what to use. I thank you in advance and I do my best compliments. If anyone beyond Mr Pass wants to suggest, I'm grateful
Nice build.
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Old 14th November 2017, 12:19 AM   #15
lgreen is offline lgreen  United States
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Hello Giovanni, you are coming around to this diy stuff very nicely, good work!

These class A amps run very hot, the case built of of aluminum will conduct heat from the heat sinks to the front panel, and bottom, top and back panels all will become very hot.

Your power capacitors and tiny transformer sit on something in the picture that is white? Hopefully this is not a heat conductive material- looks like it might be wood or nylon or plastic. If so, excellent! You will not conduct the 60C heat from the heat sinks right to your other components. If the frame is steel and not aluminum, even better. In the 2nd picture there are 6 caps across, the 1st and 6th look like they are mounted on the hot bottom panel (not the white dealie), in the next pic they look to be missing?

I have noticed that on my "Extrema" amp, the heat from the heat sinks moves through the metal on every chassis surface (top, bottom, front, back) (everything is aluminum), directly cooking the capacitors and transformers that are mounted on the bottom of the chassis like eggs on a frying pan. I had to loosen the fasteners and pick them up a little bit so they are not touching (or put a heat insulating device in between or something).

So it will be good to assume every surface will be hot is all I'm saying.

Keep up the good work.
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Old 14th November 2017, 09:20 AM   #16
Giovanni malluzzo is offline Giovanni malluzzo
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for Woody: I've tried 4Volt and I feel a bit of inbound distortion. I've tried 3volt and distortion gets off.
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Old 14th November 2017, 09:22 AM   #17
Giovanni malluzzo is offline Giovanni malluzzo
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for Wdecho: thank you very much !!
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Old 14th November 2017, 09:28 AM   #18
Giovanni malluzzo is offline Giovanni malluzzo
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for Igreen: yes, capacitors and coils are isolated from the heat of the chassis. They are mounted on a white wood panel.
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Old 14th November 2017, 09:30 AM   #19
Giovanni malluzzo is offline Giovanni malluzzo
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for Mr. Pass: I'm so sorry for mr. Pass, I meant "power supply" !!! I apologize for the bad translation with google translate!
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Old 15th November 2017, 09:45 AM   #20
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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the air temperature inside the enclosure will be roughly at the average temperature of the many panels connected to the heatsinks.

You have to ventilate the interior to get that air temperature down. The closer you can get the internal temperature to the room air temperature, the cooler the internal components will operate.
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