B1 with Korg Triode

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kbergsson

kbergsson

Member
Joined 2009
AnthonyA said:
Try using a 10 ohm bypass with 0. 1uf.. From any one point signal ground connect to casing, metal screw potentio should already be connected to the casing body so it's already connected anyway. Don't add more than one ground from the circuit to casing.. One from signal is enough.

Also make a on off on switch for ac input ground. To casing.
One is on direct connect ac input ground to casing
One is off
One is back and froth diodes bypass with 0.1 uf

Tube can be very sensitive to ground so.. That's how I usually do it and switching with different setup {if u bring to your friend} either 1 of 3 will work usually . Hope it make sense
Click to expand...
Thanks Ill try the 10ohm, 0.1uf bypass. Im using the wall wart so the on/off switch breaks or connects DC loop.
 
H

Hikari1

Member
Joined 2012
I must confess. I accused the korg B1 of being bright.

I originally went with a Mylar coupling caps (wima mks 6.2uf). It was a little bright. Not bright, but uneasy and etched in the top end. I tried Silmics bypassed with the Mylar. Not good. I tried a combo of silmics, Mylar and .1uf polypropylene. Not any better.

So I bought 6 clarity cap esa caps...6.2uf. But guess what? There is no way they are gonna fit in my chassis. In fact, the 6 of them would take up my whole chassis.

So I decided to give up. I put in 100uf silmics bypassed with a generic .1uf polypropylene cap and left the Mylar wima out and put it back together.

And remarkably, this seems to sound spot on perfect. Not etched, bass is good. What the hell ? I have two other preamps on hand for comparison, so it’s not placebo. Old albums like pet sounds and early 60s stuff doesn’t sound thin and etched anymore.
 
B

Brumjam

Member
Joined 2012
I have installed Cornell PP cap replacements, along with Vishay PP to replace the third caps. This has made a nice improvement. Thanks to Claude for recommending this. Installing them was a nightmare due to cap sizes - I will find a more elegant solution to hold all these caps in place. For now they are propped up with non-audiophile blu tac.
 
H

Hikari1

Member
Joined 2012
avdesignguru said:
Unless I'm mistaken, Papa's two favorite electrolytics in the signal chain are Elna Silmic II and Nichicon UES green bipolars. I've tried them both and can't really tell the difference.
Click to expand...

My thinking has always been Polypro>Mylar>Electolytic in regards to sound quality. But apparently, this is not always the case. I will throw away the mylar caps so they shall never be used again.

Audio note makes some fancy electrolytics called "Kaisei". Not cheap but I might try those. The 6.2UF Poly caps I bought that were too big will go in the PSU of my power amp...replacing the mylar that's in there.
 
chede

chede

Member
Joined 2016
Paid Member
I have tried WIMA MKS several times; I never liked their "sound".
"Uneasy and etched" is actually a description I could subscribe to as well ... :p

I'm very happy with WIMA MKP's, though (MKP10 / MKP4 / MKP2).

In electrolytics, I had good experience with ELNA Silmic II and Nichicon UES, as well.
My favourite electrolytics in larger capacitances are still Panasonic FC ...


Best regards, Claas
 
WKCox

WKCox

Member
Joined 2004
Hikari1 said:
I must confess. I accused the korg B1 of being bright.

I originally went with a Mylar coupling caps (wima mks 6.2uf). It was a little bright. Not bright, but uneasy and etched in the top end. I tried Silmics bypassed with the Mylar. Not good. I tried a combo of silmics, Mylar and .1uf polypropylene. Not any better.

So I bought 6 clarity cap esa caps...6.2uf. But guess what? There is no way they are gonna fit in my chassis. In fact, the 6 of them would take up my whole chassis.

So I decided to give up. I put in 100uf silmics bypassed with a generic .1uf polypropylene cap and left the Mylar wima out and put it back together.

And remarkably, this seems to sound spot on perfect. Not etched, bass is good. What the hell ? I have two other preamps on hand for comparison, so it’s not placebo. Old albums like pet sounds and early 60s stuff doesn’t sound thin and etched anymore.
Click to expand...

Excellent! Similar to how I ended up bypassing my Nichicon Muses with Panasonic polypropylenes. Provided that last level of detail.

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H

happyrabbit

Member
Joined 2012
Hikari1 said:
My thinking has always been Polypro>Mylar>Electolytic in regards to sound quality. But apparently, this is not always the case. I will throw away the mylar caps so they shall never be used again.

Audio note makes some fancy electrolytics called "Kaisei". Not cheap but I might try those. The 6.2UF Poly caps I bought that were too big will go in the PSU of my power amp...replacing the mylar that's in there.
Click to expand...

10uf bipolar 350v Kaisei + 0.22uf Amtrans. See pic. A bit over kill..
 

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A

AnthonyA

Member
Joined 2017
Hikari1 said:
I must confess. I accused the korg B1 of being bright.

I originally went with a Mylar coupling caps (wima mks 6.2uf). It was a little bright. Not bright, but uneasy and etched in the top end. I tried Silmics bypassed with the Mylar. Not good. I tried a combo of silmics, Mylar and .1uf polypropylene. Not any better.

So I bought 6 clarity cap esa caps...6.2uf. But guess what? There is no way they are gonna fit in my chassis. In fact, the 6 of them would take up my whole chassis.

So I decided to give up. I put in 100uf silmics bypassed with a generic .1uf polypropylene cap and left the Mylar wima out and put it back together.

And remarkably, this seems to sound spot on perfect. Not etched, bass is good. What the hell ? I have two other preamps on hand for comparison, so it’s not placebo. Old albums like pet sounds and early 60s stuff doesn’t sound thin and etched anymore.
Click to expand...
Also my experience... Tube always sound brighter than jfet mosfet.. That's why smooth tubes can get very expensive
. Gold legs. Whatever getter. 6p1 is just vfd. I have duelund coupling cap cast cu.. for my tube pre.. Guess what, just say I'll never do it again.. So... My strategy will be.. Full carbon. Resistors. Plain silmic first . Let's see! nutube is in customs.
 
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