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Old 6th May 2019, 11:43 AM   #2271
cubicincher is online now cubicincher  Germany
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I mounted my NUTUBE with rubber grommets around the screws to the

frontpanel (which is 10mm thick and heavy).
No microphonic problems. You have to shake the case or knock with the knuckles on it to hear something.
My NUTUBE has also that round plate on the backside - don't ask me for what
reason or what the function is?

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Dirk
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Old 6th May 2019, 11:44 AM   #2272
cubicincher is online now cubicincher  Germany
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And I used rubber feet.


greets
Dirk
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Old 6th May 2019, 12:21 PM   #2273
avtech23 is offline avtech23  Australia
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Mine is soldered to the PCB and has 3m adhesive backed foam underneath. The PCB is mounted in the slots on the side of the case so no further damping is really possible there. The case has rubber dome feet which isolates the case from the surface a bit.

I get microphonics if I tap the case or jolt it, which is fine as it won't generally experience those vibrations in use.

But.. I get a wicked ringing when I click the input switch over from one channel to another. It lasts for 20-30s or sometimes much longer and is a mid-high frequency ringing. I'm trying to figure out how to tame it without replacing the switch.
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Old 6th May 2019, 12:24 PM   #2274
avtech23 is offline avtech23  Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roo2 View Post
Hi avtech23. Yes, mine has the circle thing on the back. Looks suspiciously like a cap over the hole they pull the vacuum from.
That could well be it. I didn't really pay too much attention to the circle when I got it (too many shiny things to distract me) but when I looked through my photos I remembered seeing it and wondering.
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Old 6th May 2019, 02:31 PM   #2275
tsmith1315 is offline tsmith1315  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric View Post
Does anyone have a link for adhesive bitumen sheets?
Eric, Parts Express may still have it. Crutchfield or any decent-sized car audio shop that's nearby should have them as well.

FWIW,

When damping sheets first showed up in car audio, I remember reading somewhere that VOC off-gassing from bitumen (asphalt) sheet could potentially cause trouble with speaker adhesives or butyl rubber surrounds, or both.

Obviously, I'm no expert. I don't remember much other than it may not be a good idea to close them up inside a speaker box or near a speaker on a door skin where it can get very hot.

It may have been a marketing ploy by the major player, Dynamat, to keep us from looking for cheaper alternatives to their product.

I'm considering other mounting/damping alternatives, but not for fear of VOC's
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Old 6th May 2019, 02:54 PM   #2276
AVWERK is offline AVWERK  United States
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To really get rid of the specific frequency that starts the ringing you would have to isolate the solder connections that make it rigid.

Either the whole board isolated ( difficult ) or korg triode panel mounted with flexible wiring
And foam captured body surrounding the piece.

Regards
David
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Old 6th May 2019, 04:24 PM   #2277
Nelson Pass is offline Nelson Pass  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wengtech View Post
article said using 50K for volume pot. is that ok using 10K 20K or even 100K?
You can use any of those values. The 10 and 20K are a bit low for some
people, but no problem for the preamp. At 100K you do see a small loss
of extreme top, but this is not a big deal - there is greater loss at the
Nutube output impedance.
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Old 7th May 2019, 12:21 AM   #2278
Enochrome is offline Enochrome  United States
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I was not sure where to post this question, but I have a Millet NuTube buffer board and when completed and hooked up to a 12v 5ah battery I get a loud buzzing sound. Could this be a ground issue? It is very loud and has to be shut off immediately. Does there need to be a chassis ground? Sorry for the basic question this is my first project. Here are some photos of the board, power supply, and volume pot:
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I did have trouble soldering the board, in that I put some of the caps the wrong way and had to redo them, so some of the solder joints might not be great.

Any help appreciated. Thanks!
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Old 7th May 2019, 12:27 AM   #2279
Eric is offline Eric  United States
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Thanks for recommendation, Tim - I wasn't thinking of these sources.

I finally put my bare boards into a chassis. The chassis came with a nice 10mm front panel that was too think to allow me to mount the controls and switches, so I replaced it with chunk of cedar left over from a closet project. I still need to replace the silver screws on the front panel with black ones and add a knob to the volume pot. The combination of the stepped attenuator and aluminum chassis makes things resonate a bit, so I need to add some damping to the chassis and add some rubber grommets to the PCB mounts.

I LOVE the sound when combined with my MoFo amp! I'm likely to complete my VFet2 amp next, so I'm looking forward to that combination, too!
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Old 7th May 2019, 12:40 AM   #2280
avtech23 is offline avtech23  Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enochrome View Post
I did have trouble soldering the board, in that I put some of the caps the wrong way and had to redo them, so some of the solder joints might not be great.

Any help appreciated. Thanks!
Did you power the board up with the capacitors the wrong way round? If so they may need to be replaced.

You definitely need to go over your soldering. The solder should ideally flow from the bottom surface to the top - for example the diode D1 has big air gaps.

Do you have any pics of the bottom side?

Do you have a multimeter?
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