Some pics from the 'glowing' or 'burning' front.
(I have posted a few pics from the front before in this thread - but no problem)
Greets
Dirk
Thanks for posting these Dirk. Very nice work. I’m planning something similar unless the chassis from the store includes a front window.
Thank you, turns out that font is not available with Fusion 360 but I browsed through approx 300 fonts and found about 30 that are similar!
David
After many weeks of start-stop, I have managed to complete the B1 Korg build. It consists of a Salas UBiB v1.3 to provide the 24VDC.
Dialed the trim pots to 9V5 for T7 and T8. No smoke with the light bulb test.
Hooked it up to a F5T and tears of joy, music flows.
First impressions: tube-like sound with no rough edges. The soundstage is expansive and layered. I am sure it can be hours of listening without fatigue. I like it very much.
Thanks Papa for his generosity, this is an amazing gift to the greedy boyz.
P.S.: I house the B1 in a casing with a single volume knob. I like the minimal retro look.
Dialed the trim pots to 9V5 for T7 and T8. No smoke with the light bulb test.
Hooked it up to a F5T and tears of joy, music flows.
First impressions: tube-like sound with no rough edges. The soundstage is expansive and layered. I am sure it can be hours of listening without fatigue. I like it very much.
Thanks Papa for his generosity, this is an amazing gift to the greedy boyz.
P.S.: I house the B1 in a casing with a single volume knob. I like the minimal retro look.
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It has been an excellent pairing with my commercial First Watt M2. I guess a dose of second order harmonic added to the generally third of the M2 is a nice thing.
It's hard to gauge HOW good Pass Korg is because such things can be relatively subjective, but Pass Korg is EXCELLENT sounding with everything I have tried it with, including VFET amps.
Thanks Keith. I used a 3 ohm resistor for 200mA, that gives me 50mA typical for the B1 and 150mA spare.
I have one issue and one question.
I decided to follow some instructable on cleaning my pcb. I used rubbing alcohol and an acid brush to clean the underside of my board. My issue is that this cleaning left a sticky residue, which is even visible. I know somebody is going to reprimand me for doing this... point taken. How can I get rid of this sticky residue?
Also, what am I supposed to do with Q1 and Q2 on Christmas board? I received 8 JFETS from Nelson and I assumed I should just stuff them in the holes. The JFETS all match (8B) except for one which says (8C). Is this an issue?
I decided to follow some instructable on cleaning my pcb. I used rubbing alcohol and an acid brush to clean the underside of my board. My issue is that this cleaning left a sticky residue, which is even visible. I know somebody is going to reprimand me for doing this... point taken. How can I get rid of this sticky residue?
Also, what am I supposed to do with Q1 and Q2 on Christmas board? I received 8 JFETS from Nelson and I assumed I should just stuff them in the holes. The JFETS all match (8B) except for one which says (8C). Is this an issue?
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I think Mark (maybe in the MX2 thread) has explained how to rinse the back of the PCB (after soldering) using propyl alcohol. It has to be done several times and between every rinse toilet paper is good to suck up the sticky stuff. No reprimand I am sure
The alcohol dissolves the resin but it will still remain when the alcohol evaporates unless you flush it off or like previous poster said wipe it off. Use brush and alcohol to loosen resin and then pour some alcohol over the board to flush the resin off.
I do not believe Q1 and Q2 need to be matched. Could be wrong though.
I do not believe Q1 and Q2 need to be matched. Could be wrong though.
