Finished two identical M2's over the last months for my Markaudio CHP70 MTM speakers driven by a DSP (and later a LXmini with Nelson's XO...).
Tried to minimize internal wiring, Teabag boards, chassis U3x400, Toroidy 500VA 18VAC. Still thinking about changing to the M2X mountain view drive stage...
The DSP contains an Odroid C2, MiniDSP 2x4hd, 2 DCB1's
Great sound overall, I like the non feedback based M2.
Tried to minimize internal wiring, Teabag boards, chassis U3x400, Toroidy 500VA 18VAC. Still thinking about changing to the M2X mountain view drive stage...
The DSP contains an Odroid C2, MiniDSP 2x4hd, 2 DCB1's
Great sound overall, I like the non feedback based M2.
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Congratulations!
Very nice amps sov and asanden. Mine is getting there. More about function than beauty 
My F6 is more elegant. M2 might sound better, I dont know yet.
Quite crowded migth get some hum. Have now testet power supply -Ok!
Drilled and tapped M3 holes, uneventful but tedious. Need to drill backplate and test sides - so soon hopefully I can listen to M2 ( that is if I dont fry any components )
My F6 is more elegant. M2 might sound better, I dont know yet.Quite crowded migth get some hum. Have now testet power supply -Ok!
Drilled and tapped M3 holes, uneventful but tedious. Need to drill backplate and test sides - so soon hopefully I can listen to M2 ( that is if I dont fry any components
)
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Thanks for that. I somehow missed it.
Thanks for the advice. Yeah, it's a lot of work to read entire threads and I'm usually sidetracked before I'm halfway through.
Building the amp is the easy part.
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It is a lot of work, that's the DIY aspect! That said, its a lot less work than diving in with mistaken ideas already assembled, then having to figure out what went wrong, then all the time and trouble to undo what you spent time on first, tearing up the board and killing components in the process.
Unfortunately, DIY here really isnt an all parts included and step by step instructions...that said, 6L6 build guides are the bomb just for casual reading, as a lot of these amps construction is the same (as in power supply) or similar, as is layout etc.
The Amp Camp is only one with an all parts included option, and there is a 6l6 build guide for it. Otherwise you have to figure out what is needed. If you read the threads you will generally find where a few other people have asked most if not all the questions you will have. Ask a few questions for clarity, and you have a full understanding of the project. Next one is easier.
Russellc
Drill holes in bottom plate or perhaps use a piece of plexiglass to spread the light.
I have wondered what the next step I PSU would be. Your looks promising. I have an idea of dual mono in separate case with Neutrik connections to amp case.
Thanks . I have also been thinking on similar solutions, i.e. regarding supplies in separate cases. Its quite usual in diy valve amps because of all the heavy iron.
. I have also been thinking on similar solutions, i.e. regarding supplies in separate cases. Its quite usual in diy valve amps because of all the heavy iron.
Drill holes in bottom plate or perhaps use a piece of plexiglass to spread the light.
I have wondered what the next step I PSU would be. Your looks promising. I have an idea of dual mono in separate case with Neutrik connections to amp case.
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And I have a working stereo set!
Thanks goes out to Nelson for everything and Tea-Bag for boards. And everyone else giving proper motivation and inspiration
Only thing missing is the shield on the right channel input transformer, but it doesn't really seem nescessery - so it will have to wait
Thanks goes out to Nelson for everything and Tea-Bag for boards. And everyone else giving proper motivation and inspiration
Only thing missing is the shield on the right channel input transformer, but it doesn't really seem nescessery - so it will have to wait
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Very nice Twst. How do you fix the shield over the trafo?. I just got mine going and already playing great music. Darker and more rich and wibrant sound compared to F6 but lots of veight behinde e.g. bass notes. I like it Sound somewhere between my 300b monoblocks and F6, but top less strident than my 300b amps can be with lesser vinyl. More noise than from my F6, similar to my valve amps in that respect, need to play around with trafo shielding. All in all very promising.
Sound somewhere between my 300b monoblocks and F6, but top less strident than my 300b amps can be with lesser vinyl. More noise than from my F6, similar to my valve amps in that respect, need to play around with trafo shielding. All in all very promising.Attachments
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Thanks kbergsson!
Your amp looks like business!
The shielding I have done similar to what @1543 did a few posts back. With the Teko 3710.16 - I soldered four cable shoes in each corner of the shieling box which lined up with the holes in the pcb. This box having a top lid making it really easy to screw and fit.
You could try shorting the output of the transformer (pin 7 i think) to ground to see if the noise is coming from the trafo and work from there.
Mine is as silent as the F6 @ 99db sensivity speakers
Your amp looks like business!
The shielding I have done similar to what @1543 did a few posts back. With the Teko 3710.16 - I soldered four cable shoes in each corner of the shieling box which lined up with the holes in the pcb. This box having a top lid making it really easy to screw and fit.
You could try shorting the output of the transformer (pin 7 i think) to ground to see if the noise is coming from the trafo and work from there.
Mine is as silent as the F6 @ 99db sensivity speakers
Yes the input trafos/autoformers. I have some mechanical buzz from the powers trafos, might also be the culprint, could bend a plate around them. With the big caps things are quite cramped. I have several things to try, eks. :
-take the 230v in under the perforated steel bottom plate,
-move the powertrafo connections to the front plate,
-move diode bridges to front part of heatsinks
-move the caps further to the front ( thats one of the reasons for mounting caps on own plate).
But first I will run the m2 in as the noise is not affecting music listening, you just hear it once the music finishes. And it is probably only irritating late at night.
-take the 230v in under the perforated steel bottom plate,
-move the powertrafo connections to the front plate,
-move diode bridges to front part of heatsinks
-move the caps further to the front ( thats one of the reasons for mounting caps on own plate).
But first I will run the m2 in as the noise is not affecting music listening, you just hear it once the music finishes. And it is probably only irritating late at night.
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And I have a working stereo set!
Only thing missing is the shield on the right channel input transformer, but it doesn't really seem nescessery - so it will have to wait
And they look great! Would you mind sharing the LC scheme you chose in your power supply?
I’m having 7.6x and think it sounds charming.
I don't have precise clue on source resistors but I would add 1ohm with 8.x.
Please correct me if I'm wrong.