The BA-3 as preamp build guide

ra7

Member
Joined 2009
Paid Member
Agree that FT-3 is an awesome cap and also that H2/H3 balance has a much bigger impact on sound. I tried some other boutique caps too and the best sounding for me has been the Auricap. All other caps add something, usually something that is benign, but something is added. Auricap adds nothing and let's the circuit do the talking.
 
For sure those FT-3 are awesome bypass capacitors - I use them everywhere, where I can fit them. My comment was regarding the "polarity" meaning the orientation of inner and outer foil of the FT-3 cap not being that important, as they are shielded in a metal housing. I wanted to hint at those caps and the shielding topic. :cheers:

I see. Yes, orientation-wise, I agree with your assessment totally! Years ago, I encountered this exact same predicament regarding Hovland film caps (yellow tubular type with green and red leads). I cannot remember anymore but from what I can recall from the product website, one color is suppose to be connected to the input and the other color to the output of the signal path. I was unable to hear any difference in sound after hours and hours of comparison. I do enjoy the thrill of anticipation to detect any changes in sound however.
 
Greetings! I am about to stuff the board for a second psu to convert my BA-3 preamp to dual mono. I am using Broskie's dual/bipolar psu kit. The new kit I ordered had different caps from the first kit I initially built, so I ordered a couple of vishay caps so the PSUs would match. However, I didn't do my measurements correctly, and the ones I ordered are about 3mm wider than the existing pair. They still fit the PCB, though. How important is it to have exactly the same components in each PSU? I checked the spec sheets and it looks like the only other difference is an ESR of 5.7mOhms vs. 10mOhms. Okay to use the caps I ordered for PSU #2 or should I get the exact same ones as on PSU #1?

Also, following the discussion about the FT-3 bypass with curiosity. Are these what you all are referring to: Russian 0.22uF 600Vdc FT-3 Series Teflon Capacitor ?
 
With a regulated supply I guess the small differences should not matter.

Yes these are the FT-3 caps we talked about. They come in different sizes and voltages. They are great value for the money. If you want to check out more russian caps the K75-10 is also good value e.g. for speaker crossovers in the midrange.
 
I just need to post that the BA-3 has become my main preamp. It sounds so good with my F2J and Blumenstein Orca full range speakers is so enjoyable to listen to. With my phono as source it sound it is out of this world. My DAC is okay, but the difference between the 2 sources is easily distinguishable.

Bottom line, I was not expecting the difference between my other preamp, that uses tubes, and BA-3 to be that great.
 
I just finished stuffing and soldering the second PSU board, and I'm now preparing to reconfigure the layout of my BA3FE in hopes of fitting the second toroid and PSU for dual mono operation. It's going to be a tight fit, but I think it'll work...

My question is about hooking up the mains. I initially built the preamp according to 6L6's build guide, so I have the IEC with fuse on the back panel, which runs to the power switch on the front panel. I'm thinking about rearranging it similar to how I built my dual mono Aleph J: IEC with big fuse > power switch > two small fuses (one for each toroid) > terminal block > transformer primaries. Will that work?

If that arrangement will work, should I use thermistors and safety caps on the terminal blocks like for the mains hookups in the FW amps? And, of course, if there's a better arrangement or approach for wiring the mains, I'm open to suggestions. Thanks!
 
Should work just fine.

I don't see the need for a soft start or the caps, assuming you're using reasonably-sized toroids.

Thanks, IAIMH. I'm using the Antek AS-0520s toroids - 50VA/20V. I figured it probably wouldn't make logical sense for the soft start and safety caps to be required for dual mono but not a single PSU. But, since "rudimentary" would be an overly generous description of my understanding of how all these circuits work, I greatly appreciate you confirming that I'm on the right track!
 
to spryor #2189

Hello spryor,


I have added a pic when I was playing around with the BA-3 FE as a preamp a few years ago (in 2018).
I used groundloopbreakers (CL-60 thermistors) . No CL-60 as inrush current limiter with those small toroids.

On the pic one test is shown (on the wooden test board): dual mono, one small toroid per channel and a symmetrical cap-bank per channel. I've got around + - 28.8 V on the rails. You can easily go up to +-32 V-rails.

I was also playing with different JFets (complementaries), outputcaps....
Later I build a seperated dual mono - PSU with toroids - CLC-filter - voltage-regulators. This BA-3-preamp is still running/sounding very nice! A lot of gain... Have fun building this great sounding preamp!

Cheers
Dirk :D:D
 

Attachments

  • Pass BA-3 FE 002.jpg
    Pass BA-3 FE 002.jpg
    979 KB · Views: 378
I just need to post that the BA-3 has become my main preamp. It sounds so good with my F2J and Blumenstein Orca full range speakers is so enjoyable to listen to. With my phono as source it sound it is out of this world. My DAC is okay, but the difference between the 2 sources is easily distinguishable.

Bottom line, I was not expecting the difference between my other preamp, that uses tubes, and BA-3 to be that great.

Me too!

I have Type 26, Type 01A, ACP +, and Wayne BA2018 in semi-retirement. I have not put my BA3-FE in a case yet up to now because I am too lazy and it sound amazing as is (of course, you need to find the H2 and H3 balance to your liking first)! Un-believable dollar to performance ratio of investment this piece! I think all audio preamp should have H2 and H3 adjustment as a standard feature :)