Yeah Eric, At first I was going to get it laser cut but found out nobody round here cuts aluminium with a laser.
Then I was fantasizing about making a lute rose on the top.
This is one of my faves.
But that's just silly. So I just need to comeup with a reasonable design that looks right and lets enough air through.
I'll get out the pencil. All this can be cut with a jeweller's saw in any shape you like.
I used this, not so artsy, but inexpensive and functional.
Dissipante: 3mm Aluminum Covers – diyAudio Store
Russellc
Russell of course you are right, the straight cuts look right for the job. I think I need more than provided there however because of the heat from the transformer which is mounted centrally at the front. So I want some slots above that, maybe another double row right down the centre. I think the way will be by drilling holes at either end of each slot and running the fine metal cutting disc on the dremil down each side to join up.
In the base I just intend to do a lot of holes.
All these holes and slots will need fly wire across them or the amp will be full of mudwasps before I can blink. It's a hazard round here.
In the base I just intend to do a lot of holes.
All these holes and slots will need fly wire across them or the amp will be full of mudwasps before I can blink. It's a hazard round here.
Wot, it may be difficult to keep a Drexel disc cutting straight. IME if you try to cut slots you end up with a lot of filing trying to make them look even. I have had better luck with rows of round holes. Another way to do it is to make wider rectangular openings and then cover them with pieces of aluminum window screen or perforated aluminum of some kind, painted to match the cover. What you are really after is a certain area opened up on the bottom and top of the chassis. The bottom doesn’t show, so it’s better to start there and see how it looks before tackling the top plate.
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Yes I know how difficult it is to cut aluminium and make it look nice.
I actually think I'll have a steel one done in 2mm and spray it black with two pack. Then it can have as many rows of slots as I want, three rows on each side and one down the middle.
I think the dremil cutter would bog down in the alloy and the local engineers don't cut aluminium with a laser.
I actually think I'll have a steel one done in 2mm and spray it black with two pack. Then it can have as many rows of slots as I want, three rows on each side and one down the middle.
I think the dremil cutter would bog down in the alloy and the local engineers don't cut aluminium with a laser.
Coming from the world of vacuum tube DIY - I was a little taken aback by the 2SK170 and 2SJ74 availability issue. I mean the cost of expensive vacuum tubes can be bypassed if you don't mind playing with oddball or TV tubes.
The idea that I would have to pay the same kind of money for a "common" FET as I would a Mullard EF86 was a surprise but I'm glad I did.
So I'm glad that the M2x is available!
And apologies for going off topic.
The idea that I would have to pay the same kind of money for a "common" FET as I would a Mullard EF86 was a surprise but I'm glad I did.
So I'm glad that the M2x is available!
And apologies for going off topic.
J2 there are no Schematics + no output devices
AJ fine i have one too
Aleph J2 i dont even know that it exists
Well, I've got 4 SemiSouth's waiting for something. That's enough for either a J2 or an Aleph Jango*. And Nelson gave some pretty good hints on what the J2 schematic looks like.
* Turns out I had the Aleph J2 name wrong: 6L6 coined it the "Aleph Jango". The schematic's here: The Aleph Jango
* Turns out I had the Aleph J2 name wrong: 6L6 coined it the "Aleph Jango". The schematic's here: The Aleph Jango