A few notes to the BOM list.
For R5 chose resistor no less than 0.5W like Dale RN60, CMF60.
R5 dissipates about 315mW.
Also С5 mica cap in BOM have Copper-clad steel leads.
You migh want Mica with copper leads like this one:
CDA15CD050DO3 Cornell Dubilier - CDE | Mouser
or cheaper C0G (NP0) caps like:
RDE5C2A5R0C0K1H03B Murata Electronics | Mouser
or
FG28C0G2A050CNT06 TDK | Mouser
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Depending the part I‘m working on, I either use masking tape or a scriber:
Masking tape protects the surface but it is difficult to do precise work, while with the scriber, you mark the center by scratching the surface, thus the center-marker „hangs“ on the center. You have to get accustomed to this because the center-punch has, ahm, „a behavior“ to kinda roll off which need to be compensated. Once you know what happens and how to deal with it it’s very precise.
If working with tape, it’s purely visual. Again, once you know your tools, it’s very precise too.
Masking tape protects the surface but it is difficult to do precise work, while with the scriber, you mark the center by scratching the surface, thus the center-marker „hangs“ on the center. You have to get accustomed to this because the center-punch has, ahm, „a behavior“ to kinda roll off which need to be compensated. Once you know what happens and how to deal with it it’s very precise.
If working with tape, it’s purely visual. Again, once you know your tools, it’s very precise too.
For something like 6 deep, drill press would be the best to ensure everything is square. When I built F5 I used the very small Peter Daniels boards. They are smaller than a business card. No caps on the board so it is super light. I just drilled and tapped two holes, one for each mosfet. The ultra light board just hangs dead bug style off the mosfet legs.
Russellc
Thank you, and you Myleftear, and RusselC!
ZM: I will check it out. When I look at drill presses, maybe it’s only my personal stupidity, but they don’t look like they are able to drill far into a heat sink. Am I missing something?
Myleftear: I think I can imagine such a template. I guess the Big Gator will be a poor substitute, but maybe I’ll be surprised…
Russel: thanks! Answered in last post. Pre drilled is very, very nice. I guess having the ability and capacity to drill on myself is just one those tick offs I wanna, well, tick off. Managed to set ut a test/matching jig for MOSFETs too now. And even though it’s not yet to Serbian standards, it actually measures stable Ugs. So it’s a startsaid in other words: function is there.
Hope you are all well. Wish you a happy weekend
Regards,
Andreas
On the depth thing, I just roll a small stip of tape around the shaft of the bit at the depth I want the hole.
russellc
Russel, as I appreciated all your help during the start of my adventure in this hobby, thank you so much for the advise! I note it all. We’ll see how I end up doing this. I also have a friend who is a mechanic, so I guess it will work out some way or another. He has a gigantic drill press, but it needs a 400v 3 phase grid/supply/generator, so for now that is utopia.
I especially liked the tape trick to drill the correct depth. Thought about a solution today, and there we are
Myleftear too: thank you!
Hope you are all allright. Having the newborn on my lap right now. Three kids is a stressful, but very rewarding, affair
PS: hence all the thinking and little doing.
regards,
Andy
I especially liked the tape trick to drill the correct depth. Thought about a solution today, and there we are
Myleftear too: thank you!
Hope you are all allright. Having the newborn on my lap right now. Three kids is a stressful, but very rewarding, affair
PS: hence all the thinking and little doing.
regards,
Andy
Some are, and some aren’t. Once upon a time in Norway, and still on for example Iceland (Vikings), we were named by our fathers. Like, if ZM had a son on Iceland, he would be named Zenson (catchy name). If Papa had one, it would be boring (Nelson)
Many migrants in the US, coming from hereabouts, have the «son» in their surname. Some still so in Norway, but at some point they stopped naming after their father. So they are probably named after their great great great great grandfather or something. Most common around here, is as leftear says Johansen, Hansen, etc. some of us have more exciting names
Cheers.
Andy
Ran single PS in my my AJ for over 6months, best sounding amp I ever had.
Upgraded to dual mono PS about a year ago for a new best sounding amp I've ever had.
Difference was not subtle, improvement in all aspects of SQ was immediately
and easily discerned and a bit surprising, actually.
My only regret is that I didn't upgrade to dual mono sooner.
My next amp, a Zen Mod SissySIT will be dual mono from the onset, no question.
Parts have been purchased to accomplish that, as a matter of fact.
Pass DIY Addict
Joined 2000
Paid Member
I've had Zen's SissySIT boards and parts laying around for a while now. I've been thinking I should build it with a dual PSU (these are the only parts I need). Now I have to make sure my enclosure is large enough.
I still have a number of partial amp kits in my box and am trying to decide which one to build next: SissySIT, J2, or CSX1.
I still have a number of partial amp kits in my box and am trying to decide which one to build next: SissySIT, J2, or CSX1.
Hi Guys,
A few years I built Aleph J and I seem to recall the PCB came with a parts kit. Now I want to build another one and see REV C and D.
I am confused about ordering Aleph J PCB. There are different revisions, is the one on DIYaudio store PCB REV D? or compatible with REV D population. Also -- is there a Digikey or mouser compatible BOM or file I can use to import the parts easily without needing to search 1 by one?
When I built the first one I don't remember needing to search for all the parts by hand.
It's been some time and my memory is gone.
A few years I built Aleph J and I seem to recall the PCB came with a parts kit. Now I want to build another one and see REV C and D.
I am confused about ordering Aleph J PCB. There are different revisions, is the one on DIYaudio store PCB REV D? or compatible with REV D population. Also -- is there a Digikey or mouser compatible BOM or file I can use to import the parts easily without needing to search 1 by one?
When I built the first one I don't remember needing to search for all the parts by hand.
It's been some time and my memory is gone.
I don't recall there being a full kit, except possibly something 6L6 put together many
years ago.
A couple of members recently put together a build guide. There is a saved mouser
cart linked on this page: Parts: the Rest of the BOM
Hope this helps.
years ago.
A couple of members recently put together a build guide. There is a saved mouser
cart linked on this page: Parts: the Rest of the BOM
Hope this helps.