A guide to building the Pass F4 amplifier

Glad you found the issue. "The wrong resistors!"
 

Attachments

  • images.jpeg
    images.jpeg
    9.8 KB · Views: 229
Okay, some more amp porn. Just finished another tube amp to drive the F4. This time an even simpler design: a 6CY7, which is a dual triode (driver and output) in a single envelope. I chose again to use the fabulous Type 80 rectifier and 4 ohm secondaries on the OTs.
If you guys haven’t heard the F4 driven by a flea amp, you should ;). The distortion products of a tube amp I think go beyond descending levels of H2, H3....so on and so forth. Meaning you can’t just add H2 and H3 (as I have tried) to get exactly the same experience of having and an actual tube. Credit goes to Matt for his great and very affordable design.

https://www.cascadetubes.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/6CY7-v2-schematic.jpg

7D2913FD-4E77-4562-93DF-93CCDE24EF8B.jpg
 
I've been bitten by the "wrong value resistor" problem as well. I've even had several orders filled incorrectly - I ordered the correct value, but the wrong part was put into the bag. After this, I do not put *ANYTHING* into a PCB without first measuring it.

ggetzoff: is that tube amp closest your F4 a stereo chassis? Looks like a nice little amp!
 
A whopping 1.6W. Very inexpensive. I just use the Edcor 10W OPTs. They very low inductance, way lower then "big iron" and measure better then many more expensive transformers out there. Edcor claims extension to 40Hz but these perform well into the 30's. You looking at $18 worth of tubes (I get tubes locally for low dollars). But even on Ebay, the ST bottle Type 80s are cheap and so are the the 6CY7s.