I'm not sure I understand your question. Bridged mode will provide more power to an 8 or 16 Ohm load compared to what could be achieved by a single channel. For a 4 Ohm load, it's hard to predict and I didn't test with a 4 Ohm load in either Bridged, parallel or normal single channel configuration. Parallel mode would certainly do better with a 4 Ohm load that dips below 4 Ohms like some ESL speaker systems.
In bridged mode with a 4 Ohm load, I would be tempted to increase the idle current to the point allowed by my heatsinks.
as I said , in particular case , where OP is having "The preamp only has single ended outputs" , solution which we already have on hand is certainly superior to cheap solutions
beside that , SE driven-bridged is still having 2nd dominant , which you loose in case of proper balanced drive , due to max. possible symmetry .......and that is - you must agree - matter of choice
I'm not advocating one or the other , just saying .....
according to :
see what's your cartridge output , calc. what you're getting at EAR output , see what's ACA input voltage for max power
simple
Need new trim pots
Hello everyone!
I'm (a newbie too) in the process of getting my first DIY-thing done.
Because I was worrying I'd damage the trim-pots while cleaning the board (too much flux), I wanted to... remove them. ERM. Now I have to rePLACE them.
Didn't find the specification (nor a BOM of the ACA 1.6), is there any?
While I'm at it, cleaning with isopropanol didn't go well neither, all the flux-residue got smeared all over the PCB (I guess I was too cautious? I read that ACETON isn't good?)... Do I have to use more aggressive stuff? Use more soap and brush harder?
Thank you!
da.
Hello everyone!
I'm (a newbie too) in the process of getting my first DIY-thing done.
Because I was worrying I'd damage the trim-pots while cleaning the board (too much flux), I wanted to... remove them. ERM. Now I have to rePLACE them.
Didn't find the specification (nor a BOM of the ACA 1.6), is there any?
While I'm at it, cleaning with isopropanol didn't go well neither, all the flux-residue got smeared all over the PCB (I guess I was too cautious? I read that ACETON isn't good?)... Do I have to use more aggressive stuff? Use more soap and brush harder?
Thank you!
da.
I find that a four step process works beautifully. Protip: have the hairdryer plugged in and ready to go before you begin.
1. Flood the board with 99% isopropyl alcohol ("IPA") and scrub with a toothbrush. Do this top and bottom. Repeat twice more, for a total of 3 floodings and brushings on each side.
2. (sounds crazy but it works) Flood the board with tap water, pour on 15 milliliters (1 tablespoon) of liquid dish soap, and scrub with a different toothbrush. Do this top and bottom. The soap gets rid of the hazy flux residue on the board. Rinse the board thoroughly, top and bottom. Rinse with water at least three times per side to get rid of every molecule of soap
3. Flood the board again with 99% IPA and scrub with original toothbrush. Do this top and bottom. Rinse with IPA, top and bottom. Rinse again with IPA. This gets rid of all the water and any minerals that may have been in the water.
4. Immediately after the final IPA rinse, use a high speed pistol style hair dryer to blow all liquid off the board, top and bottom. Do this at the highest airspeed but medium or low temperature.
I buy 99% IPA from Amazon (link) but you might also find it at your pharmacy or grocery store or paint store or big box home improvement store.
1. Flood the board with 99% isopropyl alcohol ("IPA") and scrub with a toothbrush. Do this top and bottom. Repeat twice more, for a total of 3 floodings and brushings on each side.
2. (sounds crazy but it works) Flood the board with tap water, pour on 15 milliliters (1 tablespoon) of liquid dish soap, and scrub with a different toothbrush. Do this top and bottom. The soap gets rid of the hazy flux residue on the board. Rinse the board thoroughly, top and bottom. Rinse with water at least three times per side to get rid of every molecule of soap
3. Flood the board again with 99% IPA and scrub with original toothbrush. Do this top and bottom. Rinse with IPA, top and bottom. Rinse again with IPA. This gets rid of all the water and any minerals that may have been in the water.
4. Immediately after the final IPA rinse, use a high speed pistol style hair dryer to blow all liquid off the board, top and bottom. Do this at the highest airspeed but medium or low temperature.
I buy 99% IPA from Amazon (link) but you might also find it at your pharmacy or grocery store or paint store or big box home improvement store.
quality solder...
Thanks ZM, but...
I used the Cardas Quad Eutectic Solder and Cardas Roisin Flux. Still, that's where I'm at right now.
da.
Thanks ZM, but...
I used the Cardas Quad Eutectic Solder and Cardas Roisin Flux. Still, that's where I'm at right now.
da.
+1 I use the Cardas solder exclusively on all my projects and I have never had to clean a board? Color me confused also...
"We supply Quadeutectic solder in many sizes, with either activated rosin core or organic water based flux. Activated rosin flux is ideal for most applications where the components are not washed after soldering. The rosin is actually a protective coating. The organic water-based flux must be washed from the component after it is soldered. Manufactures of boards sometimes use the organic flux to get a really clean look to their boards, however, they must be washed carefully after soldering to prevent corrosion."
- George Cardas
- George Cardas
... Because I was worrying I'd damage the trim-pots while cleaning the board (too much flux), I wanted to... remove them. ERM. Now I have to rePLACE them.
Didn't find the specification (nor a BOM of the ACA 1.6), is there any?
Did you get new ones? They are Bourns 3386 5k ohm trim pots. You want the P type. Like this https://uk.farnell.com/bourns/3386p-1-502lf/trimmer-5k/dp/9355111?st=trimpot
all is well
Yup, I found them yesterday (late) evening—through the BOM, which I also accidentally found in the construction guide (should've guessed it), but it's there as image?
About the gunk—while soldering, I was trying to do a perfect job, and most probably was a bit exaggerating with the flux. (I mean, I'm using Cardas-flux, this, ahem,, must be sounding exceptionally cool, so didn't wanted to be thrifty (?) —— I ended up with a "filthy" looking PCB anyway but got it away by now. Just had to be generous with the isopropyl and rinse better. It's shiny now
Yup, I found them yesterday (late) evening—through the BOM, which I also accidentally found in the construction guide (should've guessed it), but it's there as image?
About the gunk—while soldering, I was trying to do a perfect job, and most probably was a bit exaggerating with the flux. (I mean, I'm using Cardas-flux, this, ahem,
, must be sounding exceptionally cool, so didn't wanted to be thrifty (?) —— I ended up with a "filthy" looking PCB anyway but got it away by now. Just had to be generous with the isopropyl and rinse better. It's shiny now
There I am (the good and the lesser good)
Here‘s where I‘m at so far.
It‘s fun and looks good (for a start)
But there's a setback: the new trim-pots don‘t fit (see pic) — can/should I fix that, or dig out the original parts?
Many thanks!
da.
I tried to put some links to images to illustrate, it's hopefully working:
Wiring bliss:
Trim-pots, non matching:
PS My inspiration:
and
Here‘s where I‘m at so far.
It‘s fun and looks good (for a start)
But there's a setback: the new trim-pots don‘t fit (see pic) — can/should I fix that, or dig out the original parts?
Many thanks!
da.
I tried to put some links to images to illustrate, it's hopefully working:
Wiring bliss:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Trim-pots, non matching:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
PS My inspiration: