Amp Camp Amp - ACA

is it worth the change though? I have a Virtue Audio M-901 and it came with a SMPS or an optional wiring harness for 24v battery operation because the battery power was simply superior to any SMPS. The ACA runs on an SMPS so I was wondering if the same thing might not apply.



Thx

Tris


I believe all are plenty satisfied with smps AFAIK.

Just wanted to understand the reasoning behind your question: why a 19v smps would be better than a 24v smps? Would you rather have 24v battery than a 24v smps, but you’re not concerned if the smps is 19v?
 
I believe all are plenty satisfied with smps AFAIK.

Just wanted to understand the reasoning behind your question: why a 19v smps would be better than a 24v smps? Would you rather have 24v battery than a 24v smps, but you’re not concerned if the smps is 19v?

Though I read recently that the SMPS that comes with the kit is 19v, I read somewhere else (or thought I did) that it would take 24 volt. My experience with my Virtue M-901 is that a 24 volt battery supply is a superior option to SMPS. I was wondering if that might be the case here as well. I am sure if it takes 24vdc that someone must have tried it by now and has an opinion.

I also understand that Mr. Pass decided to design this kit with a SMPS because of safety concerns for people new to the kit building process, as well as to make it less complex.

At any rate, I just happen to have a fairly robust battery supply handy so this is me inquiring with the experts before I do something that may damage it.

Thanks for your replies,
Tris.
 
Though I read recently that the SMPS that comes with the kit is 19v, I read somewhere else (or thought I did) that it would take 24 volt. My experience with my Virtue M-901 is that a 24 volt battery supply is a superior option to SMPS. I was wondering if that might be the case here as well. I am sure if it takes 24vdc that someone must have tried it by now and has an opinion.



I also understand that Mr. Pass decided to design this kit with a SMPS because of safety concerns for people new to the kit building process, as well as to make it less complex.



At any rate, I just happen to have a fairly robust battery supply handy so this is me inquiring with the experts before I do something that may damage it.



Thanks for your replies,

Tris.


Got it!

I believe all 1.6 complete kits are being shipped with a 24V smps.

Battery will always be the purest source but I remember reading on one of the ACA threads that there is barely any noise using a good smps in this project.
 
Hi .. could u please help with below queries regarding aca amp build .. attached couple of photos of current state ..
1. Can we use cat6 ethernet cable as in the photo .. the cat6 cable has 4 pairs of twisted wires .. I have connected 1 pair (2 individual wires) for each : input positive , input negative , output positive and output negative .. thus both input and output are going in single cat6 cable .. is it ok or do we need to have normal twisted pair cables separately for input and output ?

2. As we r using laptop power supply .. I am planning to use laptop power supply socket/holder as in the photo , so that we may use any laptop power supply directly without tampering it .. is it ok or do we need to have a different type of connection for power supply input ??

3. I am planning to have preamplifier also to be housed in the same box as this aca amp .. please suggest what type of connectors we may use for connecting input/output/power between the pre amp and main aca amp .. so that if needed we can swap preamps later ie. not to solder wires directly between them and common power supply ..
 

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Hi .. could u please help with below queries regarding aca amp build .. attached couple of photos of current state ..
1. Can we use cat6 ethernet cable as in the photo .. the cat6 cable has 4 pairs of twisted wires .. I have connected 1 pair (2 individual wires) for each : input positive , input negative , output positive and output negative .. thus both input and output are going in single cat6 cable .. is it ok or do we need to have normal twisted pair cables separately for input and output ?

Not ok. Use a single twisted pair for each RCA input (hot and return), remove the shielding.

Use a separate "figure 8" cable for speaker output, do not run input twisted pair wiring and the "figure 8" wiring in parallel.

2. As we r using laptop power supply .. I am planning to use laptop power supply socket/holder as in the photo , so that we may use any laptop power supply directly without tampering it .. is it ok or do we need to have a different type of connection for power supply input ??

The bigger the contact area - the better. There's around 3amps of the constant current draw from both PCB's... this requires (very) large contact area.

3. I am planning to have preamplifier also to be housed in the same box as this aca amp .. please suggest what type of connectors we may use for connecting input/output/power between the pre amp and main aca amp .. so that if needed we can swap preamps later ie. not to solder wires directly between them and common power supply ..

I hope you did not order the ACA cases then.. they are "miniature"... and will not accommodate the SMPS brick and the pre-amp board.

I would use the headers; solder the headers onto pre-amp PCB(s), and then interconnecting wiring from the ACA PCB, power supply and RCA's straight to the headers. This will allow the fairly quick swap-overs and would eliminate contact resistance all at the same time.
 
Doesn't look like PCB's from diyAudio store, so probably not ACA cases from the store either.

ya its not from diyaudio store ..
yet to decide about the case.. will see about the case after the whole amp is up and running well.. thinking to put the preamp also in the same case..

Not ok. Use a single twisted pair for each RCA input (hot and return), remove the shielding.

Use a separate "figure 8" cable for speaker output, do not run input twisted pair wiring and the "figure 8" wiring in parallel.



The bigger the contact area - the better. There's around 3amps of the constant current draw from both PCB's... this requires (very) large contact area.

what is "figure 8" cable..
means we should not use same cat6 cable for both input and output (different pairs on the single cat6 cable)?

Regarding the power supply connection wouldn't the laptop socket as in my earlier post's picture work , as we are using the laptop power supply only ??
 
Regarding the power supply connection wouldn't the laptop socket as in my earlier post's picture work , as we are using the laptop power supply only ??


The laptop socket will work. But keep the power cable separate from the in/output cables.

And also keep the input cables separate from the output cables. Each + and - output cable should be thicker than Cat-6 single or even double strand. I heard a big improvement in soundstage quality when I upgraded from single strand Cat-5 to 4-strand Cat-5 speaker cables (4 Strands for + and 4 strands for -). I used the mixed colors for - and solid colors for +, all in a single Cat-5. Sounds great!
 
The laptop socket will work. But keep the power cable separate from the in/output cables.

And also keep the input cables separate from the output cables. Each + and - output cable should be thicker than Cat-6 single or even double strand. I heard a big improvement in soundstage quality when I upgraded from single strand Cat-5 to 4-strand Cat-5 speaker cables (4 Strands for + and 4 strands for -). I used the mixed colors for - and solid colors for +, all in a single Cat-5. Sounds great!

does "4-strand Cat-5 speaker cables" means the output cables from amp output to speaker terminals?

ya power cable is different from signal input/output cables.. for power i have used little thicker copper cable and for signal (+/-) input/output i have used one pair of twisted pairs inside a single cat-6 ethernet cable

4 cables (inside one cat-6) will be too thick to put into the pcb holes i think for input.. for output we have multiple holes for +/- output on this pcb..
 
Amp Camp Amp doubling up?

Hi all, I can't seem to find what this means on the above amp build, could someone explain that to me please?

"Just solder a few more wires to turn it into a single-ended or fully balanced monoblock with twice the power of the standard ACA!"

I've built a T class amp and a chip amp, but was attracted to the class A designation and simplicity of this amp but wondered if there was a way of getting more power.
Regards to all.
 
does "4-strand Cat-5 speaker cables" means the output cables from amp output to speaker terminals?

Yes

4 cables (inside one cat-6) will be too thick to put into the pcb holes i think for input.. for output we have multiple holes for +/- output on this pcb..
One Cat-6 strand is fine for input cables. For output you need thicker or multiple Cat-6 strands from PCB to RCA socket - if that is what you're using.
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Yes

One Cat-6 strand is fine for input cables. For output you need thicker or multiple Cat-6 strands from PCB to RCA socket - if that is what you're using.
.

ya currently have cat-6 cable's, 2 strands (ie. 1 twisted pair) for input positive and 2 strands for input negative. and 2 strands for output positive and 2 strands for output negative, from the same cat-6 cable used for inputs.
 
ya currently have cat-6 cable's, 2 strands (ie. 1 twisted pair) for input positive and 2 strands for input negative. and 2 strands for output positive and 2 strands for output negative, from the same cat-6 cable used for inputs.


I would keep input and output separate. For what reason do you want input and output in one Cat-6 cable?

Maybe more experienced audio people can chime in here and point out the drawbacks of having input and output together. To me it just sounds wrong.
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For RCA style connections in chassis I like Mogami W2381, it's super flexible, terminates beautifully, quiet, easy to use, inexpensive, and sounds great.

Mogami W2381 Black Coaxial Cable, 50 Ohm (By the Foot) | Performance Audio

Talking about cables. Is there a reason you prefer Mogami W2381 over other cables with similar construction? I'm asking because the W2381 seems to be particularly hard to find - in Europe at least.

For example W2314 seems to be more readily available.