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Old Yesterday, 08:23 PM   #8211
tooppy is offline tooppy  France
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myleftear View Post

I like your writing very much. Good sense of humor, wonderful self-irony, and a perfect balance between enjoying playing with the gear and enjoying listening to the music.
so another one: !
I agree that was a very pleasing post.
With another one it will sound a lot better
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Old Yesterday, 09:02 PM   #8212
myleftear is offline myleftear  Switzerland
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Amp Camp Amp - ACA
Default christmas-present, please?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ThermalAlchemy View Post
The ACA is so easy and cheap to modify a person dose not have go to Mouser or Digikey high shipping and high end Brand name part.

A beginner can swap parts and make magic smoke to your harts content experimenting changing sound and learning at the same time.
I wish there was kind of a ACA-cook-book (no, not this way ), a guide for us noobs which could help us find (and understand) the various possibilities to manipulate this beast a bit.

While I write it, I realize it's hardly possible because it's still an amp, but I still wish there was something like this around. Because you know, I know I will do something. I'll most probably follow TungstenAudio's guideline, not only because he seems to really have improved the ACA, but also because he tells me what to put where to get a result.

I'm reluctant to accidentally cook my ACA, so I won't dare touch it without a nanny .

Here's the cool guide from TungstenAudio ( here's the schematic and here's the story to it ) as a starter, but this guy knows how to jiggle his iron.

There are many many other contributions and developments, but spread all over the places (just like on an artists desk ) and most suggestions are either surgical or extremely nerdy (can I say that?)

dreaming of jiggling an iron: david
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Old Yesterday, 09:04 PM   #8213
myleftear is offline myleftear  Switzerland
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Amp Camp Amp - ACA
Default tempted

to re-cheers just to feel a bit
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Old Yesterday, 11:56 PM   #8214
ThermalAlchemy is offline ThermalAlchemy  United States
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Default I wished I read all the information on planet10 website before I built my first f

Quote:
Originally Posted by planet10 View Post
The BK-20 is a horn for the FE206 (pre 2000 version, from before decent horn modelers), and is not the best cabinet for this driver. Do note that the FE206En is 96 dB, but as important is the kind of speaker that likes a bit higher output impedance amplifier (ie the impedance curve is synergistic with the amp output impedance and the FR (when measured with a low output impedance amplifier)).

I suspect that bridged ACA (output impedance is R*2), will be better than a singe (R) or a pair in parallel mono (R/2).

dave
Yes I’m running bridge monos. Back when I was first built that speaker cabinet combination I was just discovering full range. After reading planet 10 webpages and all his related links for information I felt very enlightened. but with all that information now I have 10,000 more questions. And my bucket list now includes software and hardware for performing speaker measurements. I will finish building my LX mini line side crossover. Experiment with bi-amping and adding a tweeter to my BK-20 cabinet and learn how to master the software and hardware for taking speaker measurements properly been doing a lot of reading about that and watching videos on set up.
By the way I have a future question for you planet 10. Is there such a thing does physics allow a high-efficiency speaker relatively low wattage to be a subwoofer in the 17 Hz to 80 Hz region. So far by my reading and my knowledge of physics and practical cost for a given size it sounds like there’s not enough call in the market to make it a financially profitable product. And to be a tight accurate musical sound in speaker in a sealed box would probably have to be god awfully large. But if it exists I’m interested.
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Old Today, 12:01 AM   #8215
Steve Luck is online now Steve Luck  New Zealand
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Just waiting on Toroids to complete a couple of cool power supplies to sit on my ACAs. Hard to know how much sound improvement I'll get but it will tidy up the number of wall warts and bricks lying around the place. PS will be a decent distance from other equipment sat on the ACA on a wall shelf behind each huge floor stander. Toroids will fill the holes with 5mm clearance front and back for ventilation.

ACA Power supply.jpg

Toroidy.jpg
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Old Today, 04:26 AM   #8216
planet10 is offline planet10  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThermalAlchemy View Post
... but with all that information now I have 10,000 more questions.
Something we learn as we learn, how much more we have to learn.

Ask away. Just in a thread more appropriate to the topic. Lots of people to chime in with useful information.

Quote:
Experiment with bi-amping and adding a tweeter to my BK-20
Biamping can be fun. Getting a tweeter to integrate that high up can be tricky, but will add air up top if you get it right.

I am eagerly awaiting the B4 inspired diyAudio Store XO, i imagine. a stack of ACP+/AXO/3 x ACA (2 in mono), with a nice WAW.

Quote:
Is there such a thing does physics allow a high-efficiency speaker relatively low wattage to be a subwoofer in the 17 Hz to 80 Hz region
Because of Hoffman’s Iron Law, low and efficient means the speaker has to be BIG. I alwasy imagine a pair of big horns using the entire wall as the mouths. The size is too small (in most rooms) for 17 Hz, but they would effectively be corner loaded so 8x effective mouth area. Or use the room next door (or underneath) as a big IB.

dave
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Old Today, 06:17 AM   #8217
Steve Luck is online now Steve Luck  New Zealand
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Quote:
Because of Hoffman’s Iron Law, low and efficient means the speaker has to be BIG. I alwasy imagine a pair of big horns using the entire wall as the mouths. The size is too small (in most rooms) for 17 Hz, but they would effectively be corner loaded so 8x effective mouth area. Or use the room next door (or underneath) as a big IB.

dave
I have Seas 10" subwoofer with matching 10" passive radiator in the bass enclosures that support each main speaker. They are currently driven by plate amps that allow me to set the gain and crossover phase etc.

Each passive radiator has a bolt on the back to enable weight to be added (in the form of washers) this can be used to lower the frequency. I've never played with that. The advantage for me and reason for a Sub and Passive combo was that there was no need to try and tune the port lengths that would have been required without the passives. How low can you go adding weight to passive radiators and what's the overall bass effect.

I've read that you should have double the surface area of your sub for your passive but this is a MFR recommended set up.

Did I also read that your ears are less sensitive to bass so you can get away with less "Fidelity" in that Area. Plate Amp works fine and i'd need a cross over and probably a lot more Watts than just one ACA can deliver per speaker to keep up with the horn output.

IMG_0820.JPG

IMG_0822.JPG

IMG_0785.JPG
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Old Today, 07:30 AM   #8218
tooppy is offline tooppy  France
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Luck View Post
Just waiting on Toroids to complete a couple of cool power supplies to sit on my ACAs. Hard to know how much sound improvement I'll get but it will tidy up the number of wall warts and bricks lying around the place. PS will be a decent distance from other equipment sat on the ACA on a wall shelf behind each huge floor stander. Toroids will fill the holes with 5mm clearance front and back for ventilation.
Your ACAs are going to look really nice with these Toroidy. Mine uses the original PSU brick and it get a lot warmer than my F5, so I will be very interested to see what kind of temperature you finally have with this set-up.
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Old Today, 07:49 AM   #8219
Steve Luck is online now Steve Luck  New Zealand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tooppy View Post
Your Acas are going to look really nice with these Toroidy. Mine uses the original PSU brick and it get a lot warmer than my F5, so I will be very interested to see what kind of temperature you finally have with this set-up.
PSU Is in it's own chassis so I'm not anticipating heat problems - I took this photo with 20mm standoffs between the units before whilst waiting but will bolt it all together with 10mm when the toroids arrive then bolt to the shelf to make it Earthquake resistant :

IMG_0549.JPG

If you live in Wellington NZ bolt your bookshelves to the wall and look both ways for busses when crossing the road

Last edited by Steve Luck; Today at 07:52 AM.
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Old Today, 05:03 PM   #8220
nikko03 is online now nikko03  Norway
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Hi I have just finished Amp camp 1,6 And when i adjust Q1 to 10vdc on the center pin.
I get 19vdc over the center pin of Q2. Is this right. I have not tried it with speakers connected. Because i am a bit worried about the high votltage on Q2
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