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Amp Camp Amp - ACA
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Old 11th October 2018, 11:36 PM   #6271
Mark Johnson is offline Mark Johnson  United States
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For some projects (not ACA, not yet anyway), I have used the LED "Angel Eye" pushbutton latching switches on eBay. (here is one example among many dozens).

You do need to measure your hole and you also need to be good with LED voltage-and-current calculations to choose the correct external components so the LED glows at a sensible brightness without instantly burning out. But the cost is low and the visuals are, imho, good.

Be sure to buy one whose contacts are rated 230V (not 12V pleasure boat).
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Old 12th October 2018, 02:27 PM   #6272
Ericc1 is offline Ericc1
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does anyone know where to buy a parts list instead of having to wait? I'm wanting to get a chance to build one before xmas
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Old 13th October 2018, 12:20 AM   #6273
eragot is offline eragot  United States
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Hey.
I have a troubleshooting question. Let's say a channel was working just fine. Then I decided to flip the circuit board around to match the other side. After doing so I may have rewired the amp wrong. <Facepalm>

What works right now.
Heatsink warm.
LED on.

But no turn on sound or output.

My bad wiring was:
DC input to signal input.

I don't think anything else mattered at that point. So, what do we think I fried?
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Old 13th October 2018, 12:35 AM   #6274
Zen Mod is online now Zen Mod  Serbia
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if just DC to input , probably nothing is fried - there is a input cap

though , maybe you flipped polarity , so cap is Dodo

pictures , pretty please
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Old 13th October 2018, 12:48 AM   #6275
eragot is offline eragot  United States
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So the rest of the bad wiring was speaker output to power in and input to speaker out. I really just rotated the board 180 and resoldered without thinking.

Which cap is the input cap? C3?
Anyway to test? Remove and check with mumtimeter?
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Old 13th October 2018, 06:47 AM   #6276
Alan4411 is offline Alan4411  Wales
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eragot View Post
So the rest of the bad wiring was speaker output to power in and input to speaker out. I really just rotated the board 180 and resoldered without thinking.

Which cap is the input cap? C3?
Anyway to test? Remove and check with mumtimeter?
Yes C3 is the input cap, you might check it with a meter if it has a Capacitance range, but will not be conclusive unless its short or open circuit.

Have you made sure the re-soldered wires have not gone through too far and touching the chassis? And have you checked the 'bias' or done any other voltage checks from the build guide?
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Old 13th October 2018, 07:20 AM   #6277
Zen Mod is online now Zen Mod  Serbia
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yup , voltage checks now

wiring looks good
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Old 13th October 2018, 10:53 AM   #6278
eragot is offline eragot  United States
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I will rebias. I've done the voltage checks and they are a bit off in places. I'll do them again after letting the amp warm up and post results.

I'll pull the cap and check it too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan4411 View Post
Yes C3 is the input cap, you might check it with a meter if it has a Capacitance range, but will not be conclusive unless its short or open circuit.

Have you made sure the re-soldered wires have not gone through too far and touching the chassis? And have you checked the 'bias' or done any other voltage checks from the build guide?
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Old 13th October 2018, 11:55 AM   #6279
eragot is offline eragot  United States
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Back of circuit board.
Bias is fine at 12.05.
Will pull cap and check.
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Old 13th October 2018, 12:40 PM   #6280
MEPER is offline MEPER  Denmark
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Originally Posted by eragot View Post
Back of circuit board.
Bias is fine at 12.05.
Will pull cap and check.


You need to re-solder all joints. Soldering is bad. At least one joint is not soldered at all.....the one just below the solder joints where the black and red wire are "soldered".
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