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Old 13th October 2021, 09:18 PM   #10991
Plott is offline Plott  Austria
Have to find one :)
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Thank you - my bad, sorry. Switch down is the short-cut, the switch works "reversed".
Sorry for the confusion
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DIY-gear: 2x ACA bridged, Frugal Horn Mk.III, XRK FAST TL
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Old 13th October 2021, 09:25 PM   #10992
ItsAllInMyHead is offline ItsAllInMyHead  United States
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Ask me how I may have known that could be the cause of the confusion….

Glad it’s sorted.
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Old 13th October 2021, 09:28 PM   #10993
Plott is offline Plott  Austria
Have to find one :)
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Quote:
Ask me how I may have known that could be the cause of the confusion….
Did you fall into this "trap" too?
I am ashamed...
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Old 13th October 2021, 09:31 PM   #10994
ItsAllInMyHead is offline ItsAllInMyHead  United States
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I sure did. That’s one of the reasons I did a full set of diagrams similar to the one I attached earlier. It took me far too long to work it out without a visual representation and showing the phase of the signal as it moved from input to speaker.
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Old 13th October 2021, 09:34 PM   #10995
Plott is offline Plott  Austria
Have to find one :)
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Good idea Thanks for opening my eyes
The 30 years long brake from building audio equipment shows a clear effect
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DIY-gear: 2x ACA bridged, Frugal Horn Mk.III, XRK FAST TL
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Old 13th October 2021, 10:01 PM   #10996
6L6 is offline 6L6  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plott View Post

So what is right?
Whoops!

The photo is incorrect, the panel instructions are correct. Speaker connections are different with self-bridged (RCA) vs XLR bridged. Sorry for the confusion, I’ll fix that.
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Old 13th October 2021, 10:15 PM   #10997
Plott is offline Plott  Austria
Have to find one :)
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Thank you 6L6, this heals me somewhat
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Old 14th October 2021, 04:07 PM   #10998
triode_al is offline triode_al  Netherlands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zen Mod View Post
if you're using non-leaded solder, think of using proper old school leaded solder
Agree with that. It seems that the solder has not fluxed nicely, it is grainy and that means that the contcts will be haphazard, maybe even changing contact during a warm-up and cool-down period.
I once bought a nice roll of silver solder in China, but it was one for factories for above 400 degrees, only fit for their fast very high temp soldering and special irons. It cost me my appetite for DIY for several years (everything I built broke down after some time...) and it was very bad for my temper.

Using such solder we only mess things up.

> Buy low temp solder. Low melting point, even under 300 degrees.
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Old 14th October 2021, 07:46 PM   #10999
captain pugwash is offline captain pugwash  United Kingdom
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It seems that the solder has not fluxed nicely, it is grainy and that means that the contcts will be haphazard, maybe even changing contact during a warm-up and cool-down period.
Noted.
As always plenty of people have chipped in with suggestions for my little problem and I am very grateful for that. My progress is painfully slow as I am scratching around for spare time at the moment so bear with me!
It is interesting that the help seems to fall into 3 basic categories;

1. Systematic measurement and fault finding.
2. Reflow all solder.
3. Remove and replace all transistors.

All of these approaches have their merits for me but I would like to get to the bottom of what went wrong.
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Old 14th October 2021, 07:58 PM   #11000
Mooly is offline Mooly  United Kingdom
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I am a great believer in measurement

Can you do one quick check (if not already done) and that is with the amp OFF can you measure the resistance between G and S of Q2. Try it with your meter leads both ways around.

Does it read very low? Use a low ohms range and not the diode check range.
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