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F5 Turbo Builders Thread
F5 Turbo Builders Thread
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Old 7th November 2018, 10:56 PM   #5241
johnhenryharris is offline johnhenryharris  United States
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I have a design, based off a bunch of soft starts out there. I have to test some of the circuit yet but I will post a schematic of the Proposed design tomorrow so you can see that you don't need a timer, though one would work the first time, I use a comparator a cap and a variable pot to adjust the timer to relay pull in.
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Old 8th November 2018, 05:06 PM   #5242
johnhenryharris is offline johnhenryharris  United States
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Default softstart for you big amp

The soft start circuit still needs testing and any debugging and changes if necessary but here it is. It has the advantage of only switching 12-14vdc on the amp front panel. It has a connector J5 for a red LED, standby, and a blue LED, on. It uses an optocoupler as a zero crossing detector to trigger the Triac. A LM311 compares the input of the voltage divider with the input of a variable resistor and capacitor. the voltage divider is set for 2/10v, about 83% of full voltage. The pot controls how fast the cap reaches 12v. The LM311 output turns on the MOSFET which pulls in the relays bypassing the thermistor and changing the LEDs from standby to ON. Testing will determine if it will work consistently and properly when a power down then power up event occurs. I will post more when I have had time to test (already have the parts).
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Old 9th November 2018, 08:49 PM   #5243
BigE is offline BigE  Canada
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What is the wire size that people are using for their diyAudio F5T boards?

Is it really 20AWG?

If not, how are you connecting the wires to the boards? ( I my last iteration, I used harwin PCB mound solder cups, but that meant drilling out the boards....I'd rather not.)
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Old 9th November 2018, 10:05 PM   #5244
Hikari1 is offline Hikari1  United States
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14 AWG. I've used 18 as well, couldn't tell any difference.
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Old 9th November 2018, 11:00 PM   #5245
Rush is offline Rush  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hikari1 View Post
14 AWG. I've used 18 as well, couldn't tell any difference.
What are the specs of your chokes in the power supply?

Rush
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Old 9th November 2018, 11:07 PM   #5246
Hikari1 is offline Hikari1  United States
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Hammond 159zl 2.5mH/10A.
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Old 10th November 2018, 12:25 AM   #5247
BigE is offline BigE  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hikari1 View Post
14 AWG. I've used 18 as well, couldn't tell any difference.
How dud you attach the 14 awg? The holes ate 20 awg ...or are they 18?
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Old 10th November 2018, 12:33 AM   #5248
Hikari1 is offline Hikari1  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigE View Post
How dud you attach the 14 awg? The holes ate 20 awg ...or are they 18?
Cut some strands off the 14AWG. Mine is actually 14g Canare speaker cable.

I think the pcb will take 18AWG. My boards are the regular, much older F5 standard boards...I don't have the newer F5T boards.
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Old 10th November 2018, 10:52 AM   #5249
JeffYoung is offline JeffYoung  Ireland
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F5 Turbo Builders Thread
Strip back a portion of the 14AWG wire. Cut of a resistor lead that fits nicely into your holes. Wrap 3/4 of the resistor lead around the outside of the 14AWG wire and solder. Cover that bit with heat-shrink tubing. Now the other end of the resistor wire goes into the hole.
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Old 10th November 2018, 11:10 AM   #5250
Bfpca is online now Bfpca  Canada
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F5 Turbo Builders Thread
What I do is to strip back the thicker wire and about 1/8” from the insulation I snip off some of the strands so that the end of the wire will fit in the hole. Then solder it and put enough solder on the top to have it flow up to the insulation, soldering the 14g portion of wire to the top of the board. This will make the wire a bit stiffer than typical. If your runs are short and you have multiple parallel output boards like in an F5V3 it may be overkill using larger wire. I can’t remember what gauge wire I used.
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