Is there a difference between steel and aluminium cases for shielding? The HiFi 2000 stuff in store has both variety of top and bottom plate. aluminium will always dissipate the heat better but steel will generate it’s own magnetic fields wth current flowing past it. My boards should arrive this week.
The Pearl II and or PSU generates very little heat but is sensitive to RF and transformer flux which steel is better at shielding.
Mbe someone should redesign the P-II board with 4-layers. The current board is an antenna for all manner of radiation.
If I were to do it I would also redesign the output section which is prone to failure owing to the finicky mosfets. could do it like mark did for the X2 with various output options.
If I were to do it I would also redesign the output section which is prone to failure owing to the finicky mosfets. could do it like mark did for the X2 with various output options.
Cool - Just mounted my ACA on wall mounted shelves away from my main rack making more space for the Pearl (new cheap but shielded 1.8 m IC ).
I could place the RIA right behind the turntable keeping the connections very short or On a shelf below it. The turntable motor is standard AC mains frequency locked type but I use Project speed box to provide regulated power to that. Is proximity to the motor a factor?
I could place the RIA right behind the turntable keeping the connections very short or On a shelf below it. The turntable motor is standard AC mains frequency locked type but I use Project speed box to provide regulated power to that. Is proximity to the motor a factor?
I'm bummed
I've been working on finally finishing my Pearl 2 in time for Burning Amp on Sunday. Last night I finished the power supply and got +31v and -31v so I guess I got that right.
I also finished mounting and wiring up the RIAA boards. This morning I hooked up the umbilical to measure the offset. I was excited when I saw 0v offset without having to make any adjustments.
Unfortunately, when I checked other measurements I realized I no longer had any voltage anywhere! It turns out I somehow blew the fuse.
I have more fuses on the way, but they won't be here until Friday. I'm not sure I'll have time to troubleshoot before Sunday because I'm attending the measurement workshop on Saturday.
I've been working on finally finishing my Pearl 2 in time for Burning Amp on Sunday. Last night I finished the power supply and got +31v and -31v so I guess I got that right.
I also finished mounting and wiring up the RIAA boards. This morning I hooked up the umbilical to measure the offset. I was excited when I saw 0v offset without having to make any adjustments.
Unfortunately, when I checked other measurements I realized I no longer had any voltage anywhere! It turns out I somehow blew the fuse.
I have more fuses on the way, but they won't be here until Friday. I'm not sure I'll have time to troubleshoot before Sunday because I'm attending the measurement workshop on Saturday.
This may sound like a strange question but is there any way to squeeze the Pearl 2 into a 1U enclosure? I thought I had ordered a single 1U Dissipante case for my Korg B1 build but through my own incompetence I ended up buying two.
It looks like C1 and C26 will be the biggest challenge to achieving this because of their physical size (height). Is it possible to mount these 'remotely' in a horizontal orientation along side the board, but with as short a connection as possible? Or will this cause problems?
Thanks in advance.
Gary
It looks like C1 and C26 will be the biggest challenge to achieving this because of their physical size (height). Is it possible to mount these 'remotely' in a horizontal orientation along side the board, but with as short a connection as possible? Or will this cause problems?
Thanks in advance.
Gary
Plenty of valve amps around with with both valves and caps sticking through the top cover. I've read the outside of some caps are conductive and you have to buy sleeving for them but no reason why you couldn't make a feature of the caps provided they aren't conductive on the outside.
I was looking into the possibility of stacking the boards to get them into a tall fat case to match the ACA width. I did come across fat short caps that would fit - what height have you got once the board is mounted?
I was looking into the possibility of stacking the boards to get them into a tall fat case to match the ACA width. I did come across fat short caps that would fit - what height have you got once the board is mounted?
The inside height of the 1U case is 40mm, so not a whole lot of room to play with. But if I lie the caps on their side I can get away with anything that is 35mm dia or less. With the space available in the case I can then go up to 60 or 70mm in length.
I was also thinking about the height of the heat sinks on the regulators. Given that the Pearl doesn’t draw a whole load of current I think I can get away with relatively low profile heatsinks that’ll fit inside. A tight squeeze but should make it.
Anyway, all this is a little way off as I still have the Whammy and M2x to get finished first.
I was also thinking about the height of the heat sinks on the regulators. Given that the Pearl doesn’t draw a whole load of current I think I can get away with relatively low profile heatsinks that’ll fit inside. A tight squeeze but should make it.
Anyway, all this is a little way off as I still have the Whammy and M2x to get finished first.
Nice BOM was just a handful of posts ago
Order extra ZVP3310, more than 1/2 the builders have destroyed one or two (very static sensitive) during construction, it's nice to have extras on hand.
There are lots of PCB on eBay that would be perfect for the raw PSU, example - Dual Polarity Symmetrical Power Supply PCB Only DIY For Audio Amp | eBay
I’m about to start working on this as my next project and then upgrade my turntable and cart once I’m done. I used this BOM to order parts, more or less, since some were obsolete, so thank you.
I also ordered these boards from eBay in case I need them for the PSU, but right now I have the PSU on my mind. Many of the examples I see of builds are not using Wayne’s PSU schematic and are implementing CRC filtering and their own flare on the PSU.
Should I do some filtering or if Wayne’s PSU schematic is good enough for him should it be good enough for me?
Lastly, I saw at least one example of using rectifier blocks to do the AC to DC, but most people are using discrete diodes. Is one preferred over the other? It would be super simple for me to just use rectifier blocks.
I’ll have other questions as I work through this I’m sure so thanks in advance.
Kevin
DIY is fun but once it's worth considering fully built boards for power supplies when the cost is the same as your BOM of parts or less:
ULN-PS1 Ultra Low Noise Bipolar Power Supply | eBay
I've bought 6 amp 24 volt from this guy for ACA power supply I'm building no hassle.
Save the fun (and budget) for choosing parts where it will make the biggest sonic difference. I suppose it all depends on how patient you are and how cheap you are prepared to go on individual components. The advice that if you're not too confident buy a power supply is good.
ULN-PS1 Ultra Low Noise Bipolar Power Supply | eBay
I've bought 6 amp 24 volt from this guy for ACA power supply I'm building no hassle.
Save the fun (and budget) for choosing parts where it will make the biggest sonic difference. I suppose it all depends on how patient you are and how cheap you are prepared to go on individual components. The advice that if you're not too confident buy a power supply is good.