B1 preamp build thread

Just another Moderator
Joined 2003
Paid Member
Ok here is a pic with feet attached and lid properly fitted. It is installed and working in this pic (Was playing Enya, Watermark).

I think it scrubbed up OK.

Tony.
 

Attachments

  • DSC_4131.jpg
    DSC_4131.jpg
    100.5 KB · Views: 1,545
No, it's the impedances that must be exactly matched.

A balanced input is actually a balanced impedance connection

It's the cable and the two end termination impedances that must be balanced.

The transmit end must have matched resistances and matched capacitances. Hopefully layout will sufficiently match the inductances.
The receive end must have matched resistances and matched capacitances. The layout will hopefully, sufficiently match the inductances.
The cable and plugs/sockets must be of balanced style.
 
Last edited:
I would like to add a 3.5mm stereo output socket to the front panel of my B1(to output to a headphone amp), is it a simple case of adding a simple dpdt switch and connecting the input of this to the boards L & R outs then connecting the switch outputs to the original phonos plus the 3.5mm socket or am I mising something?
 
Using stepped attenuator in design

I note that Mr. Pass uses a linear pot instead of a log one. Does anyone know why? I was thinking of constructing a stepped attenuator to use with the design, but now am unsure of the calculations for the resistors.
Could someone point me in the right direction?
Thanks,
Jazzzman
 
Thank you for the response, AndrewT.
I guess to be more precise, my question related to the recommendation for a linear pot in the circuit. Maybe I am just overthinking this, but I am aware of a method of simulating a log pot by attaching a resistor between the wiper and ground of a linear pot. (Rod Elliott explains the principle in his project one, see ESP - A Better Volume Control) Looking at the B1 schematic, I do not see such a resistor, but I am not sure that something equivalent might be in there. (And hence, the recommendation for the use of a linear pot.) If so, I could goof up the law of the pot by using inappropriate values for my resistors. The calculators are not designed to take that type of circuit into account. So my question really is, do I need to worry about this at all? If the circuit compensates for a linear pot, can I just use the calculations for a linear pot? If the circuit does not compensate for a linear pot, what is the rationale for not using a log pot?
Thanks for any input anyone can give me.
Jazzzman
 
do not worry about log or lin (stereo)pot.......
there are personal preferences (e.g. i always build in a lin pot, because its channel imbalance is lower than in a log one. but if there are res in parallel to the wiper, it will get some kind of "log shape" - if you want or not........)
 
we have ears/brain that listen in a log fashion.
The vol pot needs to attenuate in a log fashion to make our hand/knob rotation match what we hear.

Linear gives good adjustment of sensitivity. Great for a PA amp that need a little bit od tweaking to match other equipment. Great for adjusting the treble level of an active filter set.
 
Thanks 6L6!

Thanks 6L6 for this excellent guide. I actually bought my B-1 board and JFETS over 5 years ago, and a nice Modushop chassis from Italy a couple years after that, but only got around to building it now. Your guide helped me overcome my fear/inertia. Actually the hardest part was drilling holes in that nice chassis. I splurged on some nice caps and wire and so on, but otherwise did a really standard build. It sounds terrific.

Now to put my Peter Daniels F5 and PSU boards to good use!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0694.jpg
    IMG_0694.jpg
    492.5 KB · Views: 1,151

6L6

Moderator
Joined 2010
Paid Member
Looks great! Congrats on completing such a nice project!!

Try to be more careful when soldering around those big expensive caps - we've all done it, so don't feel bad.

...Heck, the last time I did it I completely destroyed the cap... :(

Anyway, you'll love the F5. :)
 
Member
Joined 2000
Paid Member
Jazzzman, use a stepped ladder in the B1. Will crush the Alp pots or any other wiper type pot. I have the Alps, but now use a $20 stepped ladder from Hong Kong and it murders the Blue Alps pot. It's such a big difference I'll never go back to a standard pot again. Even if you spend $150-200 on a stepped pot, it's still worth it. It's like listening to two completely different units.

Lafish, I used the Mundorf Evo S/G/O caps in my B1 and it sounds great. Also built a version with V-Caps, Obbligatos and Duelunds and it's a monster. Unfortunately, I built the Duelund version for someone else. :(

At a fraction of the price the Duelund/V-Cap B1 beat out a few tube preamps, one costing $7000. Any way you build it, the B1 is a serious preamp.
 
Member
Joined 2002
Paid Member
Jazzzman, use a stepped ladder in the B1. Will crush the Alp pots or any other wiper type pot. I have the Alps, but now use a $20 stepped ladder from Hong Kong and it murders the Blue Alps pot. It's such a big difference I'll never go back to a standard pot again. Even if you spend $150-200 on a stepped pot, it's still worth it. It's like listening to two completely different units.

Hi Vince,

Is there a specific attenuator you can recommend?

Thanks,
Dennis
 
Member
Joined 2000
Paid Member
Seriously, anything will be better than a wiper type.

I recently picked one up at Analog Metric. Should be getting one in the mail soon.
Shipping from Hong Kong takes about 2 to 3 weeks. I'll post a pic.

24 Step Ladder-Type Potentiometer (Stereo)_Volume Control_Accessories Kit_Analog Metric - DIY Audio Kit

8audio.com had 25k pots but ran out.

Check ebay too.

Also if you're up for it make your own. PartsConnexion.com has switches.

Shunt types are a bit easier and less expensive but stepped ladders are better.

Btw- There's also khozmo, dact and goldpoint.