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Whoops, i realize that this is normal B1, not nutube thread, sorry.
Whoops, i realize that this is normal B1, not nutube thread, sorry.
Post #3665 Korg B1 thread; found 20k pot sound better than 50k pot.
Originally Posted by avdesignguru
With B1K, I found that the pot value was a more important variable than the make and model of pot. I tried several different makes of 50K vs several different 20K and found I much prefer a 20K over a 50K pot with this preamp. 20K took out any residual shrillness. This may be due to the loading on my source and the resultant differences in noise and transient response and how those are amplified by the Korg. But I found 20K works for me.
Originally Posted by avdesignguru
With B1K, I found that the pot value was a more important variable than the make and model of pot. I tried several different makes of 50K vs several different 20K and found I much prefer a 20K over a 50K pot with this preamp. 20K took out any residual shrillness. This may be due to the loading on my source and the resultant differences in noise and transient response and how those are amplified by the Korg. But I found 20K works for me.
After or before potentiometer
Hello all !!
Now I'm listening the Aleph J with a Marantz SA11 S2 with a potentiometer of 50k in the middle.... simply amazing. But one collegue of this forum recommend use the B1 buffer for improve the system. So, I have now the original B1 R0 buffer (thanks Anastasia for your fast delivery).
My doubt is, I want to mount a 10k resistor potentiometer of 23 steps, but I think mount it before the buffer, between the in ant pcb so it means I have to link on the PCB W + CW and the CCW free really ?...
Is this better than mount the potentiometer after the buffer ?? and use the W and CW conections.... I'm not sure about sonic differences.
A F5 amplifier is comming jajjaja is this buffer good for use it with the F5?? Or preffer use a preamp + buffer ??
Thanks for your help.
Hello all !!
Now I'm listening the Aleph J with a Marantz SA11 S2 with a potentiometer of 50k in the middle.... simply amazing. But one collegue of this forum recommend use the B1 buffer for improve the system. So, I have now the original B1 R0 buffer (thanks Anastasia for your fast delivery).
My doubt is, I want to mount a 10k resistor potentiometer of 23 steps, but I think mount it before the buffer, between the in ant pcb so it means I have to link on the PCB W + CW and the CCW free really ?...
Is this better than mount the potentiometer after the buffer ?? and use the W and CW conections.... I'm not sure about sonic differences.
A F5 amplifier is comming jajjaja is this buffer good for use it with the F5?? Or preffer use a preamp + buffer ??
Thanks for your help.
Morenmgu,
AlephJ has 19.6 dB gain.
F5 has 15.3 dB gain.
B1 is a unity gain buffer.
If you are happy with the volume level of the Maranz CD player + B1 + your speakers,
Then you should be okay with the F5 also.
The B1 allready has a volume pot before the fet buffer cct. Therefore no need of a separate vol control.
Vol control pots should always be before the fet buffer circuit. Otherwise you loose the benifite of the low impedance buffer.
What I am trying to say is only use a 20k volume control if you want more hf dynamics.
A 50k volume control did not give me and some others the extra higs our speakers were able to put out.
If the F5 does not sound loud enough to your taste, then connect a preamp with gain between the Maranz and the B1.
Do not eliminate the B1 out of the system. Keep the preamp volume high and control the system volume with the volume control fitted on to the B1.
AlephJ has 19.6 dB gain.
F5 has 15.3 dB gain.
B1 is a unity gain buffer.
If you are happy with the volume level of the Maranz CD player + B1 + your speakers,
Then you should be okay with the F5 also.
The B1 allready has a volume pot before the fet buffer cct. Therefore no need of a separate vol control.
Vol control pots should always be before the fet buffer circuit. Otherwise you loose the benifite of the low impedance buffer.
What I am trying to say is only use a 20k volume control if you want more hf dynamics.
A 50k volume control did not give me and some others the extra higs our speakers were able to put out.
If the F5 does not sound loud enough to your taste, then connect a preamp with gain between the Maranz and the B1.
Do not eliminate the B1 out of the system. Keep the preamp volume high and control the system volume with the volume control fitted on to the B1.
After two hours and a half, I have to recognize that sound good, the stage is well define and 3d feeling is good, some bells and details sound rear me..... for say something maybe a little bit dark compares with the 10k pot alone.... in the future I'll try to mount mundorf evo oil and left the Wima and Vishay. I think it can improve a little bit bit very happy !!
Thanks again for all!!
Thanks again for all!!
Last edited:
B1 in burning stage
Hello all friends, I want to share with all about I find on Pass B1 Buffer.
I have to recognize at the beginning the buffer show me a little dark sound and not enough clean what I spect, I'm listening it with the Aleph J i build with your help some months ago.... my "reference" and marantz sa11 s2 and denon dcd 1600 (amazing player for that price...)
So, after 48 hours of continuos burning I can say this B1 buffer is highly recommend, if you are doubting about that, DO IT, is cheap and easy to build, now the sound comes clean, detailed, controlled with all in the correct place where must be and with the deep must have. For me was revelating how are the sources I have with the B1 Buffer..... you can listen everything is recorded in the deepest part of the cd, vinyl or others... No fatigue problems because is not analitic, in fact is a little warm
I think the mkp capacitors can be update by mundorf evo oil, but the Wima and Vishay do a good job so for the moment will be here.
For finish, I recommend 20v DC, in the listening sessions music seems have more "body" than 18v, use a regulared ps and in my case 10k potentiometer with Vishay resistores.
Thanks to all !!!
Hello all friends, I want to share with all about I find on Pass B1 Buffer.
I have to recognize at the beginning the buffer show me a little dark sound and not enough clean what I spect, I'm listening it with the Aleph J i build with your help some months ago.... my "reference" and marantz sa11 s2 and denon dcd 1600 (amazing player for that price...)
So, after 48 hours of continuos burning I can say this B1 buffer is highly recommend, if you are doubting about that, DO IT, is cheap and easy to build, now the sound comes clean, detailed, controlled with all in the correct place where must be and with the deep must have. For me was revelating how are the sources I have with the B1 Buffer..... you can listen everything is recorded in the deepest part of the cd, vinyl or others... No fatigue problems because is not analitic, in fact is a little warm
I think the mkp capacitors can be update by mundorf evo oil, but the Wima and Vishay do a good job so for the moment will be here.
For finish, I recommend 20v DC, in the listening sessions music seems have more "body" than 18v, use a regulared ps and in my case 10k potentiometer with Vishay resistores.
Thanks to all !!!
I completed the B1 as the 1st Covid lockdown project.
It's nearly one year now.
I was an addict of tone controls, loudness buttons and graphic equalizers.
I am surprised how I managed so long without any of those
because the B1 has none of those.
Yet it gives so natural sound.(pure hi-end!)
You can find all the ups and downs in a recording and yet enjoy it
with the superior knowledge that you know all about it.
That's why its called B1 meaning Boywonder1.
John.
It's nearly one year now.
I was an addict of tone controls, loudness buttons and graphic equalizers.
I am surprised how I managed so long without any of those
because the B1 has none of those.
Yet it gives so natural sound.(pure hi-end!)
You can find all the ups and downs in a recording and yet enjoy it
with the superior knowledge that you know all about it.
That's why its called B1 meaning Boywonder1.
John.
I'm looking into a B1 as my next build after I finish my F5T. I'm hoping somebody can speak to adding a subwoofer out (downmix to mono). It looks like it's as easy as using some plate resistors to make a voltage divider. I've seen that as part of a crossover circuit so it seems reasonable. Or maybe there is a more elegant solution?
Also if I wanted to build it balanced, but also have some of the outputs be unbalanced, is that as easy as just ignoring the inverted channel for the unbalanced outs? Or perhaps the inverted channel would need to go to ground, probably through a resistor?
Thanks!
Also if I wanted to build it balanced, but also have some of the outputs be unbalanced, is that as easy as just ignoring the inverted channel for the unbalanced outs? Or perhaps the inverted channel would need to go to ground, probably through a resistor?
Thanks!