Take the chassis to IEC mains grounding wire away from the toroidal's screw. Use a dedicated chassis mounting point for it. 50VA toroid will be fine for your setting while 80VA will be rich enough if you feel like overspecifying it.
How you can measure output offset if the output relay makes no contact for instance? Impossible. Maybe you used latching type relays? Correct type is Ea2-12NJ
How you can measure output offset if the output relay makes no contact for instance? Impossible. Maybe you used latching type relays? Correct type is Ea2-12NJ
Salas thank you for your coatching. I just found the mistake. I did not solder one pin in the input relay. Output relay is working properly so that the offset is just that i wrote. Must i make some rekonfiguration of jfets.
At first sight DCB1 is a hugh difference versus my old preamplifier. Tomorrow I will better describe my opinion.
Salas, thank you.
At first sight DCB1 is a hugh difference versus my old preamplifier. Tomorrow I will better describe my opinion.
Salas, thank you.
Opinion, which I promised. My system now consists of:
Mac mini with iPad Remote
Arcam RDac
DCB1 before Valve Preamplifier
MiniDSP
One chanel 2x monoblocs Pass F5 (total 4 x monoblocs F5 and 2x monoblocs Zen V4)
OB, U and H frame (15 kombination)
Gaina is just enough (i have 20k potentiometer, which is completley open, I think to cahange it for resistors but I need DCB1 also for phono)
The sound has a better resolution, a better stage and better bass. I think I've come up with DCB1 to the end of my DIY boundaries.
Matjaž
Mac mini with iPad Remote
Arcam RDac
DCB1 before Valve Preamplifier
MiniDSP
One chanel 2x monoblocs Pass F5 (total 4 x monoblocs F5 and 2x monoblocs Zen V4)
OB, U and H frame (15 kombination)
Gaina is just enough (i have 20k potentiometer, which is completley open, I think to cahange it for resistors but I need DCB1 also for phono)
The sound has a better resolution, a better stage and better bass. I think I've come up with DCB1 to the end of my DIY boundaries.
Matjaž
Last edited:
I plan on building the B1 and the Aleph J and possibly eventually the F5 I found what looks to be legitimate matched 2SK170 GR's from ebay.
http://www.ebay.com.au/usr/lady.twilight
I might buy some and do testing seems pretty cheap too
by the way better to copy the link and paste it into your browser
http://www.ebay.com.au/usr/lady.twilight
I might buy some and do testing seems pretty cheap too
by the way better to copy the link and paste it into your browser
Last edited:
There is a problem with ebay links. The goalposts keep moving,
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/forum-problems/240776-ebay-links-not-working-properly.html
If source and/or speakers are above the norm for output then its a different ballgame indeed.
A quick search suggests that the F5 needs about 4V input for full output, so given that most sources nominally have 2V line level output, a B1+F5 combo may work in some cases.
Edit: With a voltage gain of 15.3dB=20*log(x) and a maximum output voltage of +/-20V (from manual), the amplification factor x=10^(15.3/20)=5.82 and therefore the input voltage required to drive it to full output should be 20V/5.82=3.42V.
Edit: With a voltage gain of 15.3dB=20*log(x) and a maximum output voltage of +/-20V (from manual), the amplification factor x=10^(15.3/20)=5.82 and therefore the input voltage required to drive it to full output should be 20V/5.82=3.42V.
Last edited: