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Old 7th October 2017, 02:01 PM   #4061
djmilicic is offline djmilicic
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Local online flee market! But, after while, they are very hot.

Last edited by djmilicic; 7th October 2017 at 02:07 PM.
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Old 7th October 2017, 02:59 PM   #4062
esprit is offline esprit  Europe
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Do they conform to the, "temperature calibration nomenclature"
of Nelson Pass.
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Old 8th October 2017, 02:56 AM   #4063
opa1 is offline opa1  United States
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Finished today. 10/07/2017. ACA, Linear PS.
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Old 8th October 2017, 11:23 AM   #4064
dabenza is offline dabenza  Spain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Itsmee View Post
I wouldn't say that!

When I saw this, I thought f*?%, that looks dangerous!

PLEASE make it safe, you only get one life, it's not a game, it doesn't reset if you loose.

SIMPLE TRICK when dealing with mains wiring, if you don't have a proper PCB to mount the components and fasten wiring to, use a clean dry piece of wood screwed to the chassis, screw a length of insulated terminal block on top, and use every other terminal for connections to provide adequate insulation, also ancor the wire at the connection, you don't want it shorting out to something if the connection brakes.
The CL60's get hot in use, bend the CL60's to a vertical position - away from the wood, it's also the best orientation for cooling.

Talking of shorting out, the blue wire dissapearing into the chassis - DO NOT DO THIS, its carrying mains voltage; vibration could cut through the insulation, you don't want that to happen; and it's also good practice to twist the mains & transformer primary and secondary wire pairs together, don't over do it, one complete twist per 3cm is more than adequate, then give the wires a second coat of insulation, heatshrink is ideal (I use it unshrunk - if it shrinks, theres a heat problem), spiral wrap insulation or nylon braid can be used, it's better tha nothing.



For a first time builder with no experiance, I take my hat of to you sir.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BobEllis View Post
I want to add that those "Euro-Block" connectors are dangerous with stranded wire unless you put a crimp end on the wire. I used them in my Aleph J and it arced, burning the terminal strip. Fortunately it arced to open rather than to ground and didn't start a fire. The terminals were nearly burned/melted into contact with the chassis. I recommend the barrier strip type of terminal blocks with crimp terminals and insulation to prevent accidental contact with mains voltage or at least a crimp cap on stranded wire if you must use those terminal blocks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2 picoDumbs View Post
Use ferrules on multistranded wire when using the euro style terminal strip
For the wire through holes you can drill out the hole to a larger diameter and insert a rubber grommet to protect the insulation from damage.
Well, live and learn. One year ago I didn't know what a capacitor was and did. Not that I know much more now, but I'm enjoying the process of learning quite a lot. I will make everything as safe as possible following those recommendations. In fact, I was pretty unsure of that part, but it seemed to be right to me. The mains through the holes were... tight to say the least, and I was surprised that I saw that in other constructions, that's why I did it so.

Please, first time DIYers, follow the "wise guys advises" and beware of amateurs like me. We post photos not to show the right way, but to be corrected.

Thank you very much everyone.
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Old 8th October 2017, 02:07 PM   #4065
JeffYoung is offline JeffYoung  Ireland
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Well, many of us Europeans get on fine with the "Euro-Block" connectors.

They do benefit from being anchored, but dabenza has done that with wire-ties. All good in my book.

Good advice on the wires-through-holes, though. Grommets (or re-routing) are in order here. And I'd also bend the thermistors vertical.

Just my take on it all.

Cheers,
Jeff.


(FWIW, EU electrical codes require RCDs/GFCIs pretty much everywhere while the American NEC only requires them in wet locations.)
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Old 8th October 2017, 02:25 PM   #4066
xrk971 is offline xrk971  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opa1 View Post
Finished today. 10/07/2017. ACA, Linear PS.
Nice work! I am using same case for Silicon Harmony, another SE Class A design but with SMPS and cap multiplier.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 15th October 2017, 03:43 PM   #4067
enser is offline enser  United States
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So much good work on this thread. The mechanical and auxiliary sub-systems for these (relatively) simple class A amps is half the fun (and/or battle).
WalterW I would love to hear that VFET monster... your build thread is inspiring.
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Old 15th October 2017, 11:51 PM   #4068
Coasttocoast is offline Coasttocoast  United States
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I finished my F5 Turbo v3 monoblocks two years ago, my build thread is here;

(Aloha F5 v3 Monoblock build), but I never posted final picks here.

About a year and a half ago we moved to a house in Kahala with jalousie windows and only a few window A/C units. Since these amps put out so much heat I have been using my KT150 tube monoblock amps. Pulled out the F5's today and realized I missed the energy of these amps.

Decided to build an old fashion (modernized) console and incorporate these F5's into them, with different heatsinks and new chassis's. So figured I post some pics before the "remodel"!

Where is a good place to detail my console build? Mahalo!

IMG_2264.JPG

IMG_2265.JPG

IMG_2266.JPG
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Old 16th October 2017, 12:05 AM   #4069
Soundhappy is offline Soundhappy  France
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Beautiful F5T build congratulations
Do your schassis get some opening for better hot air flow ?
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Old 16th October 2017, 02:23 AM   #4070
2 picoDumbs is offline 2 picoDumbs  Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xrk971 View Post
Nice work! I am using same case for Silicon Harmony, another SE Class A design but with SMPS and cap multiplier.

Click the image to open in full size.
Really nice case
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