AndrewT said:
If so, you had to quote the designer's from the beginning.
Or, you should know the reason by yourself.
As far as I understand, the voltage gain of the source follower is dependent on the transconductance, not on the Idss. But, it seems that Idss is to be considered in design because the load might need certain amount of current. Nevertheless, I have thought that we could use LSK389A of the lower Idss--with somewhat higher distorsion. This why I was giving you the question.
Cheers,
Re: Re: Poor Serbian Man B1
naah ...... I feel more like The Little Match Girl ....... Papa is constantly refusing to adopt me .......
( speaking of that - I always think that H. C. A. was one sick baztardo , selling that story to kids - as kids-tale
)
Blues said:
After all this years, now I get it...Choky you are the Zen (Master's) Mod(ifier).
naah ...... I feel more like The Little Match Girl ....... Papa is constantly refusing to adopt me .......
( speaking of that - I always think that H. C. A. was one sick baztardo , selling that story to kids - as kids-tale
)
four channel version
Please indulge my simple-minded questions.
I will be constructing a 4 channel version of the B1 on perf board.
The first question regards the power supply section to the four channels. My first thought is to leave the power supply as it is. Then tap the connections for channels 3 and 4 from
A) the line going to R103/R203
B) the line going to Q200/Q200
C) the line returning from R105/R205
I assume the current draw is still trivial even for the extra 2 channels. I also assume the voltage at all 4 Gates will still be 1/2 the PS voltage.
I will also try to make sure the grounds are all tied as closely together as possible.
My second question is about the capacitors. I assume my money is best spent on getting the fanciest capacitors for C101 & 201 (and in my application C301 & C401)
Have I missed something?
Thanks in advance,
-Tom
Please indulge my simple-minded questions.
I will be constructing a 4 channel version of the B1 on perf board.
The first question regards the power supply section to the four channels. My first thought is to leave the power supply as it is. Then tap the connections for channels 3 and 4 from
A) the line going to R103/R203
B) the line going to Q200/Q200
C) the line returning from R105/R205
I assume the current draw is still trivial even for the extra 2 channels. I also assume the voltage at all 4 Gates will still be 1/2 the PS voltage.
I will also try to make sure the grounds are all tied as closely together as possible.
My second question is about the capacitors. I assume my money is best spent on getting the fanciest capacitors for C101 & 201 (and in my application C301 & C401)
Have I missed something?
Thanks in advance,
-Tom
I have populated my Pass-DIY B1 board but I am a little confused about hooking up the 24 stepped ladder mono attenuators that I purchased on ebay from 8Audio. They have an In, Out and Ground connection. How does this correspond to the CCW, W, And CW of the Pass boards? Also how do I hook up the DPDT switch? See the link below to 8Audios wiring diagram:
http://8audio.com/image/volumecon.jpg
Does anyone have any pictures of their completed Pass DIY boards to show and tell?
http://8audio.com/image/volumecon.jpg
Does anyone have any pictures of their completed Pass DIY boards to show and tell?
fiscal said:
Perhaps someone could be good enough to comment on the whole Gerber File business.Recalling my efforts to have ZenV4 boards made ,the board maker kept coming back seeking additional files which confused me .The boards never were made . Can anyone throw lite on what to do with these files as well as what programs are required to read them???
My Cigar Box B1 So Far
Here is a picture of my unfinished B1 buit in a wooden cigar box. I still need to add the DPDT switch, DC jack and wiring. The 25K stepped ladder attenuators are off of ebay from 8Audio.
I am grounding the chassis with bronze nuts, bolts and washers to copper tape visible on the edges of the PCB. Does this make sense?
Can someone explain how to hook up the six poles of the DPDT switch to the six connections on the Pass-DIY PCB? I know this is probably obvious to everyone else, but it is not clear to me.
Here is a picture of my unfinished B1 buit in a wooden cigar box. I still need to add the DPDT switch, DC jack and wiring. The 25K stepped ladder attenuators are off of ebay from 8Audio.
I am grounding the chassis with bronze nuts, bolts and washers to copper tape visible on the edges of the PCB. Does this make sense?
Can someone explain how to hook up the six poles of the DPDT switch to the six connections on the Pass-DIY PCB? I know this is probably obvious to everyone else, but it is not clear to me.
Attachments
If you go to the ebay page you bought the pots from, or any other 8audio potentiometer page you will find a link to a picture of how to hook it up. After that pic its not to hard. Be careful. I bought 2 stereo pots from him and waited a very long time to use either. Longer than I felt was fair to ask for a refund. The build is nice and the resistors I am sure are of decent quality, but the stepping is messed up on both pots. I get a few areas where volume takes a dive where it should have increased.
Uriah
Uriah