DIY solder mask

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Personally, i tried a German product, with good results.
After treating the copper with liquid tin, i sprayed the entire pcb with this lacquer, without worrying about the pads, this product is solderable!

But the whole point of a soldermask is to prevent accidental bridging between traces, planes pads.

If u can solder thru the laquer doesn't that defeat the purpose?

Were you just going for the look of the green board?
 
I know this thread has been a bit inactive for a while and the original posters have probably gone by now, but I'll ask my question in the off chance someone can answer.

If I plan on using this paint in an airbrush what is the best way to thin it out? Someone said it was a bit thick and needed to be thinned, but I never found what to thin it with.

Secondly has anyone tested a sharpie or other permanent marker to cover the pads while painting? I was just curious because when my toner transfer has holes I usually fill them with such a marker and was curious if I could just color over the pads with a sharpie and clean them up with acetone in the same way after baking.
 
Option 2:
If you need a real solder mask, you'll need to deal with serigraphy stuff. You can find photo-serigraphy starter kit here by example: Screen Printing Kit - Photo Emulsion

The process involves a lot of time in silkscreen preparation and is not really recommended for single parts. The process becomes interesting in large scale production.
...
Years ago I looked into using this silkscreen product called PhotoEZ for the same purpose. It costs about US$10 for a 8.5x11" (~A4) size sheet. You create your design by printing onto an overhead transparency sheet, then expose in sunlight or UV. Then you develop using nothing but tap water (I suppose there are embedded chemicals of some kind). So overall this product requires little investment other than the sheets themselves. I did not ever try the product, so I can't say how well it works.
 
Secondly has anyone tested a sharpie or other permanent marker to cover the pads while painting? I was just curious because when my toner transfer has holes I usually fill them with such a marker and was curious if I could just color over the pads with a sharpie and clean them up with acetone in the same way after baking.

I suppose that if you used a marker that creates a hydrophobic surface (I don't know how hydrophobic dried sharpie ink is) and a water based paint (thinned with water to just the right consistency) then it may be effective. You would brush the paint over the entire surface, and it would magically retreat away from the hydrophobic areas. But I suspect that you'd need to find something other than acetone to remove the ink without damaging the cured paint. Maybe isopropanol?
 
Just came on here to share some thoughts and experiences concerning solder
masking. With all the effort for relative average results from a lot of methods, I see the
easiest way is just color the board over after soldering with a permanant ink Texta
marker pen in a choice of colors green, red, blue, etc. not a great tough finish but it
looks half decent.
The better method yet I see would be to buy a can of either "VHT ANODIZED COLOR
COAT" or "Metal Cast Anodized coating Duplicolor Dupli-color spray can"
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Metal-Cast-Anodized-coating-Duplicolor-Dupli-color-
spray-can-/251818796892
Amazon.com: Dupli-Color MC203 Green Metal Cast Anodized Color - 11 oz.: Automotive
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/VHT-ANODIZED-COLOR-COAT-CHOOSE-A-COLOUR
-/261731797097
These are straight out of a spray can no fuss translucent paints (see through color
paint) which are designed for the auto industry to withstand great heat for under the
bonnet color spray over chrome parts. So I would imagine they would be tough and durable finishes which would look great over the top of a bright shiny copper board and solder joints.
The paint are similar to Candy Color paint often used in the auto and Electric Guitar finishes. cany paints could also be used for solder mask finishes if desired, the are also translucent designed to look good over a metalized surface.
I have purchased some green duplicolor, and shall give it a whirl. so for now, best to you all in your electronic endeavours. and solder masking quest.
 
Just came on here to share some thoughts and experiences concerning solder
masking. With all the effort for relative average results from a lot of methods, I see the
easiest way is just color the board over after soldering with a permanant ink Texta
marker pen in a choice of colors green, red, blue, etc. not a great tough finish but it
looks half decent.
The better method yet I see would be to buy a can of either "VHT ANODIZED COLOR
COAT" or "Metal Cast Anodized coating Duplicolor Dupli-color spray can"
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Metal-Cast-Anodized-coating-Duplicolor-Dupli-color-
spray-can-/251818796892
Amazon.com: Dupli-Color MC203 Green Metal Cast Anodized Color - 11 oz.: Automotive
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/VHT-ANODIZED-COLOR-COAT-CHOOSE-A-COLOUR
-/261731797097
These are straight out of a spray can no fuss translucent paints (see through color
paint) which are designed for the auto industry to withstand great heat for under the
bonnet color spray over chrome parts. So I would imagine they would be tough and durable finishes which would look great over the top of a bright shiny copper board and solder joints.
The paint are similar to Candy Color paint often used in the auto and Electric Guitar finishes. cany paints could also be used for solder mask finishes if desired, the are also translucent designed to look good over a metalized surface.
I have purchased some green duplicolor, and shall give it a whirl. so for now, best to you all in your electronic endeavours. and solder masking quest.

The whole point of solder resist is to prevent solder shorts during the soldering process, not for a decorative finish....
 
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This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.